KevinEF7

Hey guys, Im fighting an oil pan leak on my D16, hadnt given me issues for 3 years, but at the end of last season I hit a literal brick on the road and cracked the weld on my Moroso aluminum oil pan, got it welded, and now I can get the damn thing to seal.

First attempt I tried a Felpro permadry gasket, the blue ones with the ribs, it seeped oil pretty decently right away. Torqued to spec for90& of the nuts (cant reach some because of kickout) very clean surfaces

Just 2 weeks ago I tried using no gasket at all, just a nice bead of Permatex Ultra Grey, and while that was promising for a week, it seemed to create a seep between the block and grey and also appeared to be leaking from the threads of the studs. I smeared a little more on the leak area, and it made another leak.. Im dreading pulling the pan with this stuff cured but thats where Im at.

I did alot of research and Permatex Ultra grey rigid is supposedly the best for the job if you have time for curing, aparently black and copper are a little lower quality but have higher heat ratings Permatex also makes an aerosol propelled "Right Stuff" that is supposed to be the exact same as Toyotas FIPG that everyone raves about.



The only thing that worried me about going that route this time is the working time, you have to move FAST as it sets up extremely quick, I had a hard time being under the car and pushing the pan straight up against the block without smearing it or touching any sides of the bellhousing etc, its tight in there.

Im not sure what gasket I had on there in the first place that didnt leak for so long, and if I used any rtv on the humps etc or if it was dry, I assume it may have been an oem gasket I purchased but Im not sure...

Help me solve this problem for the last time this season guys, cheers!

KevinEF7

After even more reasearch, aparently to use ONLY rtv with no rubber gasket, the surfaces need to be slightly rough. My pans is damn near polished and the block is extremely smooth aswell. Maybe thats my issue

boosted94gsr

myHondaHabit Oil Pan Gasket: B-series

Too bad they don't make this for the d series. Maybe someone else makes a similar gasket...

91b18a1ls

^Their gasket and stud kits are the ****. That finally fixed my oil pan leak issue. It's pricey, but worth it

DC4KiD

iTrader: (4)

Have you checked to mating surface of the pan for true straightness/flat surface? Those Moroso aluminum pans are soft and tend to warp from over-torquing the nuts/bolts. I've ran into this issue from warped mating surface. I straighted/flattened the mating surface with a hammer, applied oil-resistance (black) RTV at the for corners of the block, new Fel-Pro (blue) gasket, and re-installed oil pan. No leaks since then.

underrated

iTrader: (3)

Can't use the gasket but the stud kit is doable on the d.

LightningTeg

Honda Bond and torque to the specs OEM provides, no issues.

radam

I used a thin layer of rtv on my gasket, just enough to get it to stick to the bottom of the block so I could slip the pan on to it. Then torqued to spec in a criss cross pattern going from one side of the pan to the other. Never had a single problem out of it. I was also using a felpro gasket.

LightningTeg

Its super easy to over torque the bolts and squeeze the gasket out, I get that. I would recommend get a 1/4" torque wrench accurate in the low 1-20ft-lb range

h22-eg-hatch

iTrader: (1)

Go to honda dealer. Buy honda bond
It's grey. Works like a charm.
Just drain oil. remove oil pan.
Clean surfaces on oil pan and motor
Apply bead. Bolt up and let set for a day before adding oil