<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would the affordable cost be the other reason to run a setup like that besides the tee being to heavy for the block threads?

If so, could one use this:



and get oil from here and leave the oil pressure switch in it's factory location, thus simplifying the setup even more?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I definately think that this is the safest route, im probably going to use this now instead of messing with the stock oil pressure sensor location.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LShatchie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I definately think that this is the safest route, im probably going to use this now instead of messing with the stock oil pressure sensor location. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds good, let us know how it works out!

Maryland huh? Me too!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCDubya &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was hookin all my stuff up today and came to the stock oil pressure switch. The wire isn't long enough for it to get to the firewall. Did you guys just cut and solder in a longer piece of wire?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats right............

the oilfilter sandwhich adapter is by far the best way to go......

 

Just got my fittings in the mail today....mcmaster is damn quick with shipping!!
Hooking everything up satuday.

Where did everyone bolt this to the firewall? abs lines are everywhere!

 

I don't see what "looking pimp" has to do with anything.... BUT, just bringing this back up to note that they have BSTP to JIC adapters, so there are less fittings overall..

I already had my feed line, stealthmode stuff, but I wanted to be safe so I decided to get rid of the heavy brass piece that comes with the kit..

I got all stainless fittings, a SS BSTP to JIC, female JIC x female JIC(swivel on both ends) SS hose with 316 SS ends, SS Tee, and an SS NPT to JIC, for like $45 shipped..

should be nice, and its still cheaper than stealthmodes firewall kit they sell, not to mention alot better, all SS!

:D

 

good stuff!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GaRn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't see what "looking pimp" has to do with anything.... BUT, just bringing this back up to note that they have BSTP to JIC adapters, so there are less fittings overall..

I already had my feed line, stealthmode stuff, but I wanted to be safe so I decided to get rid of the heavy brass piece that comes with the kit..

I got all stainless fittings, a SS BSTP to JIC, female JIC x female JIC(swivel on both ends) SS hose with 316 SS ends, SS Tee, and an SS NPT to JIC, for like $45 shipped..

should be nice, and its still cheaper than stealthmodes firewall kit they sell, not to mention alot better, all SS!

:D</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm glad you found something that you're happy with.

The words "heavy brass piece" could be one way of describing our block fitting. Another could be that it weighs 2.6 oz. or the equivilent to $3 in quarters. If it's going to be percieved as heavy, I might as well give the weight of it.

What you have come up with is $5 cheaper , and with the exception of the fittings in the end of the firewall kit, our kit is also all stainless.

Oh, oh wait. Mine comes with free stickers. lol

 

very good write up

 

back from the dead...so i can find it again!

 

Thank you!

Unfortunately, I should make a new writeup I changed my setup a little bit. Glad to know these pictures are still active

 

I am about to put a setup back together....can you tell me what to buy?

 

I am confused, did you read page two?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dual Cam Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very good write up</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

heres what i used- a Mr.Gasket fuel distribution block:

 

I ended up using a vacuum manifold for an air compressor. It was $4 at my local hardware store. even came andonzied blue too.
I also got lower oil pressure readings from my oil guage.
no leaks

and the lines are hydraulic lines I ran a restrictor. $2 a foot cant go wrong.

 

What's the point of all this?

You are increasing the risk of oil feed line failure by mounting things on the firewall for 2 reasons

1.) the engine moves back and forth constantly...the firewall is stationary...get my drift?
2.) you are introducing a **** load of leak points.

The best way to do this is to keep it simple. KISS (keep it simple stupid)

And don't you dare call me a 'hater' for pointing out obvious shortcomings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Helsinki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1.) the engine moves back and forth constantly...the firewall is stationary...get my drift?
2.) you are introducing a **** load of leak points.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1.) All of the lines going into the tee on the firewall are flexible whether they be stainless or rubber, so i dont see how this is a problem.
2.) I understand your point, but if you go turbo, and you need oil for the turbo, stock pressure sensor, oil gauge etc.. how can you not increase leak points? It doesnt really matter if you use the oil sandwich or this method, there are still more leak points than you had before! Just have to make sure you use the right fittings and do it right!

Not hating, just giving my opinion! thanks

 

Yes, ofcourse the hose is flexible, but it's going to be moving constantly and if the car is ever launched, there will be tremendous stress on the hose connection joints. I would never use any aluminum fittings on such a setup. And as far as the leak points go, with a standard tee setup, you have a total of 5 leakpoints over OEM. With this manifold thingy, you are increasing leakpoints by at least 100%.

Personally I like to minimize risk of catastrophe, therefore I keep **** simple.

 

If you have to have a oil press. guage, oil line to the head, to the turbo and a place for the stock oil press. sender this is the ONLY way to do it. SS lines and fittings are designed to be moving constantly, they wont leak unless you put them in wrong or make them too short. Ive NEVER had a leak from mine, and Ive had it on there for about a year, daily driven.

 

anyone know another place to get some of these fittings besides McMaster?? Everyone must have have bought them through McMaster because now the 1/8"NPT MALE x 1/8" BSPT FEMALE (4092k26) is now $16.39 ea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BDogggUT34 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know another place to get some of these fittings besides McMaster?? Everyone must have have bought them through McMaster because now the 1/8"NPT MALE x 1/8" BSPT FEMALE (4092k26) is now $16.39 ea. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's because that is stainless steal! The brass fitting is MUCH less

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow poke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's because that is stainless steal! The brass fitting is MUCH less </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, thanks man, i did realize that afterwards but forgot to edit the post. However i did end up just using a BSPT male X JIC male and hooked my line that way. Still pretty much the same.

 

http://www.actionvillage.com/i...rFs5#

i use a couple of these on my lines. $6 and makes pulling the turbo or engine much easier. it's 1/8 npt

you can also pick up cheap ss lines $5 - $15
http://www.actionvillage.com/i...hoses


Modified by abnaasefmb at 10:42 PM 11/24/2006

 

huh, its odd you use those. A few years back I was going to use some quick disconnect paintball fittings for the oil, and some mcmaster fittings for various radiator hoses. The paintball fittings were the kind where you can disconnect them and the oil will stay in the line

Do they leak at all? do you have an oil pressure gauge installed? Do you happen to know the flow characteristics of them?

I bet they make those tight spaced feed at the actual turbo very easy props for trying something yourself!

<FONT COLOR="green"><FONT SIZE="3">ALSO - check these out</FONT></FONT>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1819067

They are BSPT - 4AN fittings for the back of the block

 

I used a tuner toys T from stealthmode, put the stock sensor on the back of that, plugged one side with a 1/8npt plug and put a 90* 1/8npt(paintball fitting) on the other side. From the 90* I ran a ss line (again paintball) and put a 1/8QD fitting on the end, that line goes to the firewall mount distro block where I put the other side of the QD. The block feeds my turbo and the oil pressure gauge.

I was a little bit leery about using the paintball lines and fittings but they are high quality and often times handle up to 4500 psi of compressed gas. I keep the QD away from the turbo because it has a rubber o-ring inside and the turbo can kick off some serious heat it would probably be fine but I figure why take a chance.

With the QD I just pop it off when I pull the engine takes less than a sec and I don’t have to take unnecessary chances playing with the block threads.

I would not use a fill nipple in the system because it would restrict flow.

Z10 makes a fitting that goes on the end of the oil pump that I’m going to be using on my new set-up.