why is option 2 (t at the firewall) better than t at the block?

 

can you explain why you picked option 2 over one? pros/cons? thanks man

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skelly &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can you explain why you picked option 2 over one? pros/cons? thanks man</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Gfunk176 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is option 2 (t at the firewall) better than t at the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the tee and stock sending unit are hanging from the back of the block, theres a possibility that the vibration/jossle (whatever you wanna call it) will make the threads of the tee just break off a chunk of the block.

lemme see if i can find a picccccccccadoodle

 

I just priced out option #2 just to see...here is what I came up with using your guide...very nice, wish i had this a few months back!

 

here... let it be known... this is blufke's picture, and <FONT COLOR="blue"><FONT SIZE="3">it did NOT HAPPEN because he teed if off the back of the block!!!!</FONT></FONT> This happened because he got a fitting stuck in the hole and had to muscle it outta there.

BUT, this same outcome is possible if you leave that tee on the back of the block, or some would argue.



thanks blufke

 

So the disadvantage of the tee being on the back of the block is the weight of it and the flexing of the hose?

 

Just the weight of it... has the possibility to crack a chunk off the block

 

Now you need to do a write up on oil return from mcmaster parts

Again, good info

 

Would the affordable cost be the other reason to run a setup like that besides the tee being to heavy for the block threads?

If so, could one use this:



and get oil from here and leave the oil pressure switch in it's factory location, thus simplifying the setup even more?

 

I love this thread!!

I think it will save me some money!

 

thanks for the info on how to do this!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Would the affordable cost be the other reason to run a setup like that besides the tee being to heavy for the block threads?

and get oil from here and leave the oil pressure switch in it's factory location, thus simplifying the setup even more?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Len, that's what I used.

I used Stan's oil feed for the turbo w/ the stock sensor and then used the GE oil thingy solely for my oil pressure gauge. I think its much cleaner without all the fussing, but that's just me. If I can you want me to snap a pic?

- Fred

 

The fitting (item#4860k151) is the wrong thread pitch. That fitting is Bspp, not Bspt. I couldn'd find the right one in a brass fitting, but the correct fitting would be(item#4092k26) this is stainless though. This fitting has the correct thread pitch.....But this helped me out tremendously anyway THANK YOU!!!!

 

Just curious why you guys went thru the extra work to put the stock oil pressure sending unit back in ?

 

So If people are using their stock ECU's, it won't throw any codes. Some people get them some don't. But if it's supposed to be there, then why not use it???

 

all it is is for the dummy light isnt it? i never threw a code for it .usually when you see the dummy light your too late anyway . esp with the oil light.

 

I think this is a pretty ghetto way of doing the oil lines. Why not just use a vacuum manifold. Thats how I run oil to my head, turbo, oil pressure gauge.
I wish I had pictures, but its so much cleaner and looks pimp too.

 

i think i saw pics of that set up , i dont know if it was yours or someone elses , but it did look nice. no probs with leaking or anything ?

 

good write up, i would change a few things though for a setup i were to use.

 

No leaking. No pressure loss. Only time I see a loss is when vtec engages at 4200 @85 psi oil pressure, it drops 5 psi.
I get a reading on the pressure gauge maybe 2 seconds after startup. Its a mechanical pressure guage, so oil pressure needs to build in about 5 ft of line before its gets there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No leaking. No pressure loss. Only time I see a loss is when vtec engages at 4200 @85 psi oil pressure, it drops 5 psi.
I get a reading on the pressure gauge maybe 2 seconds after startup. Its a mechanical pressure guage, so oil pressure needs to build in about 5 ft of line before its gets there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Same thing happens with mine, cept I read about 8psi at idle and about 25psi at WOT since all the pressure flows to the turbo feed line instead of againsted the sensor.

 

I was hookin all my stuff up today and came to the stock oil pressure switch. The wire isn't long enough for it to get to the firewall. Did you guys just cut and solder in a longer piece of wire?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good write up, i would change a few things though for a setup i were to use.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks!!! what woul dyou change?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was hookin all my stuff up today and came to the stock oil pressure switch. The wire isn't long enough for it to get to the firewall. Did you guys just cut and solder in a longer piece of wire?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly. Without the OPS hooked up no dummy light will come on, and will not throw and codes... i promise

 

nice write up man

 

doesnt the stock oil pressure sender have to be grounded to the block? If you relocate it to the firewall, and use tape on every fitting, how will you ground it?

You could ground it off the brass fitting, if you used a metal strap to connect it to the firewall, and no tape on the pressure sensor, correct?