Oil drain in shallow side, problems
I've tapped the oil pan very high up on the shallow side of the pan. It has a very short hose off the turbo to the pan, very vertical. I've had problems ever since getting the drain to seal around the turbo. No smoking or oil in the charge pipes, but the damn line leaks no matter what I do.
here are some crap pics. I can't figger out where exactly it is coming from, I only assume around the gasket material.

In this pic you can see the general oily mess, and you can also see how vertical my line is placed.

Here you can see how the oil is getting on the turbo above the feed line location and all over the downpipe.
Im going to go clean it and see if I can see it leaking, then get a clear hose and find out whats going on. Let me know what you think.
P.S. I had filled the engine a little too full of oil, so I drained some out and the problem still occurs. And when I take the drain line off oil "spurted" out the brass fitting on the pan.
I can only assume it's the location that makes this happen, but I've read other posts that people have had no problems.
here are some crap pics. I can't figger out where exactly it is coming from, I only assume around the gasket material.

In this pic you can see the general oily mess, and you can also see how vertical my line is placed.

Here you can see how the oil is getting on the turbo above the feed line location and all over the downpipe.
Im going to go clean it and see if I can see it leaking, then get a clear hose and find out whats going on. Let me know what you think.
P.S. I had filled the engine a little too full of oil, so I drained some out and the problem still occurs. And when I take the drain line off oil "spurted" out the brass fitting on the pan.
I can only assume it's the location that makes this happen, but I've read other posts that people have had no problems.
He's sleeping, how much help did you expect?
What kind of fitting is that for the return, is it a push-barb type? Looks like your gasket is shot and also did you teflon the fitting into the drain?
What kind of fitting is that for the return, is it a push-barb type? Looks like your gasket is shot and also did you teflon the fitting into the drain?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyle h. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

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HEY, CHECK OUT THE CRACK ON THE ALUMINUM DRAIN FLANGE

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HEY, CHECK OUT THE CRACK ON THE ALUMINUM DRAIN FLANGE
I did use teflon. Yes they are brass push on barbs and I don't think that's a crack. Although I'll definatly look at it a little closer! It certianly looks like one.
Either way, if it is a crack it leaked before there was a crack in it. This is the second time I've taken it off to replace the gasket/clean it all up. And it keeps leaking...
Either way, if it is a crack it leaked before there was a crack in it. This is the second time I've taken it off to replace the gasket/clean it all up. And it keeps leaking...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dturbocivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HEY, CHECK OUT THE CRACK ON THE ALUMINUM DRAIN FLANGE
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Its a strand of the teflon tape hanging over the edge, but at first glance it definitely looks like a crank.
Do you have a proper gasket in there? or are you just using liquid gasket?
HEY, CHECK OUT THE CRACK ON THE ALUMINUM DRAIN FLANGE
</TD></TR></TABLE>Its a strand of the teflon tape hanging over the edge, but at first glance it definitely looks like a crank.
Do you have a proper gasket in there? or are you just using liquid gasket?
Well ****, it is a crack. I cracked the first fitting. Then my girlfriends dad made a new one, and it must have cracked under the heat. I still think the leak wont be fixed there.
Im using a modified EGR valve gasket I found. I have some sealer on there to keep it in place while I bolt it all together.
I did put a clear hose on it, and it seems to get a little backed up down by the oil pan, but not up around the turbo. At idle the oil flows freely and when reved and held, and reved up and down it flows consistantly out of the turbo.
I'm going to try to find a molded 90* rubber hose thats good for oil and use that. Damn I hope I can fix this. It's starting to be a pita.
Other wise the car runs good! 160k+ z6 running 10psi
Im using a modified EGR valve gasket I found. I have some sealer on there to keep it in place while I bolt it all together.
I did put a clear hose on it, and it seems to get a little backed up down by the oil pan, but not up around the turbo. At idle the oil flows freely and when reved and held, and reved up and down it flows consistantly out of the turbo.
I'm going to try to find a molded 90* rubber hose thats good for oil and use that. Damn I hope I can fix this. It's starting to be a pita.
Other wise the car runs good! 160k+ z6 running 10psi
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im using a modified EGR valve gasket I found. I have some sealer on there to keep it in place while I bolt it all together.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sealers dont work too well... RTV silicone might, I'd make the fitting out of stainless and tap it, use a NPT fitting, with some Loctite and tighten it down. Use a proper gasket between the fitting and turbo housing with RTV silicone, hopefully it would hold.
Sealers dont work too well... RTV silicone might, I'd make the fitting out of stainless and tap it, use a NPT fitting, with some Loctite and tighten it down. Use a proper gasket between the fitting and turbo housing with RTV silicone, hopefully it would hold.
My **** leaks a little no matter what....I did all I can and one day..I was like f$#k it. Now it still leaks but it's so little that I just ignore it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyle h. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well ****, it is a crack. I cracked the first fitting. Then my girlfriends dad made a new one, and it must have cracked under the heat. I still think the leak wont be fixed there.
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If it's cracking then your surface isn't flat. You might have to either belt sand the oil drain or take the turbo apart and grind down the cartridge.
Two flat surfaces pushed together won't crack each other, but an uneven surface will put more pressure on one side than the other.
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If it's cracking then your surface isn't flat. You might have to either belt sand the oil drain or take the turbo apart and grind down the cartridge.
Two flat surfaces pushed together won't crack each other, but an uneven surface will put more pressure on one side than the other.
Well, looking closer @ the picture, it looks like it might also be cracking from you torquing down the drain fitting too much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98JDM_Type_R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> torquing down the drain fitting too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly.
exactly.
torquing it down too much is the problem behind the cracking. It's been leaking since we put the turbo on. I'm going to thread a new fitting tomorrow and see what happens. Is there any reason to use aluminum as the flange?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyle h. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Is there any reason to use aluminum as the flange?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, if you get the function7 flange. It's about $15 on ebay. It's made of super strong 7071 aluminum and the surface comes pre-coated with copper spray so you don't need additional sealant.
Yes, if you get the function7 flange. It's about $15 on ebay. It's made of super strong 7071 aluminum and the surface comes pre-coated with copper spray so you don't need additional sealant.
Actually, all Function7 flanges I sell come with a gasket. 
Function7 flanges are made from some of the strongest aluminum avaliable, so you don't have cracks like in the above flange. But be careful about how tight you tighten the NPT fitting. Use teflon paste and make it snug, too tight and you risk cracking the brass fitting!

Function7 flanges are made from some of the strongest aluminum avaliable, so you don't have cracks like in the above flange. But be careful about how tight you tighten the NPT fitting. Use teflon paste and make it snug, too tight and you risk cracking the brass fitting!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn! I guess I was robbed of a gasket then.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Naa, I just started that. I got the manufacture to include them, since everyone was asking for them, however, before this time no one ever complained about a leak on Function7 flanges. They aren't really needed, but they give the user an additional peace of mind.
Naa, I just started that. I got the manufacture to include them, since everyone was asking for them, however, before this time no one ever complained about a leak on Function7 flanges. They aren't really needed, but they give the user an additional peace of mind.
Don't mean to bump this from the dead, but I noticed I never replied with the conclusion I've come to. Apparently after 2 years? Wow, has it been that long!? Anyway, it still leaks. I got a function 7 fitting and extra gaskets. tried various methods. I've just come to the conclusions that has already been stated, the turbo flange can't be flat/square. The fix would be to remove the turbo, disassemble it and get it machined down. I've just dealt with the leak so far.
my drain leaked and leaked and leaked. finally i just said f it.
but it still kept bothering me after a while and i took it off one more time and checked the flange, it was warped pretty bad and apparently had been since new, i took a file and filed it flat, put some hight temp rtv and now its dry as can be.
the high temp rtv dosent necessarily stand up to those temps but if you have near perfect surfaces and a lil rtv it will probably be fine.
i did not put in a gasket after surfacing the flange, everytime i used a gasket i had a leak. it was roasting those gaskets.
get a good clean metal file, a large one will help you keep it flat and straight, and file the surfaces, i did the flange with the fitting in it so it wont change with the fitting in or out. you should do the turbo with the drain facing down, or flush the CHRA really well with oil after file-ing.
but it still kept bothering me after a while and i took it off one more time and checked the flange, it was warped pretty bad and apparently had been since new, i took a file and filed it flat, put some hight temp rtv and now its dry as can be.
the high temp rtv dosent necessarily stand up to those temps but if you have near perfect surfaces and a lil rtv it will probably be fine.
i did not put in a gasket after surfacing the flange, everytime i used a gasket i had a leak. it was roasting those gaskets.
get a good clean metal file, a large one will help you keep it flat and straight, and file the surfaces, i did the flange with the fitting in it so it wont change with the fitting in or out. you should do the turbo with the drain facing down, or flush the CHRA really well with oil after file-ing.
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