mycron

OK guys sorry if this is really a n00bish question but i havent been able to find the answer yet (need better "Search" skillz maybe ...)

I was wondering about fuel management in us poor saps who are using OBDII cars. ie: my 96 civic ex.

Ideally i would love to convert to OBDI and use Uberdata; however, once emissions time come around, which is once a year here in PA, i would obviously fail. To get around this i was thinking of keeping my old injectors and ecu and switching everything over at emissions time. I guess i would have to disable boost somehow in order to actually make it to the shop... i dunno ... so what do you obdII+uberdata guys do once emissions come around? Any help much appreciated!!

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

well, funny you should ask. i swapped out my p28 for my stock obd2 ecu right before i pulled up to get tested. Apparently, you have to drive the car for a least a week or something with the obd2 ecu in, because when you unplug the ecu, it clears all of the codes and the testing computer thinks that you are trying to cheat, so it fails you.

mycron

hehe man that sucks. so what did you do about the bigger injectors you had in? again thats assuming your car is boosted. everything would be so much easier if the pnp's were chipable >.<
anyone else have some input on this?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

right now my car isnt boosted (yet), but that wouldnt matter for me, i could pull up runningopen downpipe and everything and they wouldnt care.. i have a 99 and all they do here is ull ecu codes and pressure test the gas cap

VinceVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, funny you should ask. i swapped out my p28 for my stock obd2 ecu right before i pulled up to get tested. Apparently, you have to drive the car for a least a week or something with the obd2 ecu in, because when you unplug the ecu, it clears all of the codes and the testing computer thinks that you are trying to cheat, so it fails you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, exactly. OBD2 has to go through a drive cycle to check all the sensor values to see if they meet emissions levels. A drive cycle can be completed in typically 25-50 miles of driving. If you search google for "obd2 drive cycle," it will pull alot of helpful articles. This is what I did.

For me, I run Hondata/obd1 p72 & 550cc injectors in my '99SI. However, when its emissions time. I have to switch back to my obd2 ecu, greddy blue box, and 310cc injectors. What a pain... but it passes.

Hope that helps.

mycron

yea and then you gotta run that for a week so the ecu resets! its almost like you gotta have 2 management systems. looks like the AFC hack is the route im gonna have to take

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

nah, 25-50 miles i do around town. take you about 45 minutes

mycron

yea but the thing is you need something to act as fuel management while your driving around to reset your obdII ecu like an AFC or you need take off the turbo from the header or whatever.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

no, just drive gently, dont flog on it. its real easy to drive around and stay out of boost, you can also remove the wastegate spring, that will help bleed off exhaust gases so the turbo doesnt build boost

johnmay19

Here is another option others have used. Get another gauge cluster that you use during year then come inspection time swap back to your original cluster. Go under 5k a year and you will be exempt.

VinceVTEC

Wow, I haven't heard of that before. Or you can get someone to "pass" you for a lil' somethin' somethin', haha

johnmay19

You can't sneak the obd2 cars through unless you lie on the milage. Since when you scan your registration the computer knows the year, make etc of the car your plugging into.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

someone needs to give the dmv puter' a virus or something.

johnmay19

Well you will have to find the computer because the emission machines connect to servers in texas. Go figure.

scartail

can you run two chips? i.e. have one chip with a very rich map (you may suck at performance, but you may pass inspection).. and then the other that is your optimum... or is it just the fact that you MUST have an OBD2 ecu in a OBD2 car? I may be moving to an emission state in the future... so I'm interested...

johnmay19

You must have an obd2 ecu in the car.

scartail

dang... that really sux then... maybe i shouls just stay in FL... no emissions... or atleast keep the registration active!!

VinceVTEC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnmay19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't sneak the obd2 cars through unless you lie on the milage. Since when you scan your registration the computer knows the year, make etc of the car your plugging into.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, you can get by if the person is willing to scan the VIN/registration on your car and pullup another car to plug into the scantool port

fastludeh22

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnmay19 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go under 5k a year and you will be exempt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is this a state thing? anyone know if ga does this?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

is this a state thing? anyone know if ga does this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, i wanna know too

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The EEC-V is a powerful system that monitors the engine constantly and adjusts the mixture and timing up to 7 times per second based upon the sensor values that it reads.
Whenever work has been done on the Engine or Sensors the EEC will take time to relearn it's optimum values. This process can be speeded up by following the recommended Drive Cycle - a process designed to help the EEC-V relearn all of the sensor values. Obviously it will do so without the full Drive Cycle - it just takes longer.

The recommended OBD II drive cycle begins with a cold start (with coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).

NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in D for two and a half minutes with the A/C and front and rear window defrost on.
OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.

Turn the A/C and front/rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.

OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.

Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.

OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.

Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking.

OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.

Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.

OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.

Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.

OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.

Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

Test complete

johnmay19

Most states probably have the same exemption standards.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VinceVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, you can get by if the person is willing to scan the VIN/registration on your car and pullup another car to plug into the scantool port </TD></TR></TABLE>
When you scan the registration the computer matches up the vin from the registration to the vin stored in your ecu. Also different ecus use different "langauges" to communicate, so pulling up another car wouldn't work.

Tactic$

I have this same problem in Oregon..... stoopid emissions. I had planned on swapping back in the OBD II ECU and stock injectors, and removing the WG spring.

I recently talked to my bro-in-laws dad, and found out that he lives out of the "smog zone" so i asked him if i could register my car at his p[lace..... answer was "yeah"

Im sooo glad i found a way around this crap