Hey guys im new to the boosting world but i have an entry level of knowledge of how it works..Currently im starting to piece together parts for my first turbo setup but unsure of what else i really need....Below i have listed parts i already posses..Any help would be greatly apreciated!!!

D16Y8
GARRETT T3/T04E 60AR TURBINE 84AR COMPRESSER
SPOOLIN LOG MANIFOLD
CUSTOM DP
RC 750 INJECTORS
P28 WAITING TO BE CHIPPED
WALBRO 255 LPH
FEED AND RETURN LINES
TIAL WASTE GATE
HKS BOV
FMIC AND 2.5IN PIPING
MANUAL BOOST CONTROLER

Im planning on boosting it stock for right now and get some vitara pistons paired with eagle rods but im clueless about what kind of fuel management options i have....Any help guys???

 

call your tuner and ask them what they prefer to work with.

 

Honestly...get whatever will allow you to tune it the most effectively and nothing more.

Our choices for Miata's are much more limited...and there are many items that offer sufficient control of timing and injectors, or just modify signals to the stock ECU.

For us MegaSquirt is the best option...and I've heard of people using it on Hondas. I highly recommend it. It has everything you need and nothing more.

 

x2..


what are your power goals??

In General, you'll need:
-upgraded clutch (this will be dictated by your power goals)

upgraded mounts and a traction bar will also help you put down power...

 

Clutch/Pressure Plate
Gaskets
Clamps/Couplers
Vacuum Lines/fittings
Boost Gauge?
Wideband O2?
Exhaust?
Mounts?
Traction bars?

For when you build it:

Exhuast
Rods/Pistons/Rings/bearings
Crank Case Ventilation solution
Oil/water pump
timing belt
Misc gaskets

the list can get REDICULOUSLY longer though... trust me.

Cam/Springs/Retainers
EGT
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Water Temperature
Vacuum distribution block
Boost selonoid
LSD
Wheels/Tires (tires at least)

 

Thanks for the input guys.....my goal is to eventually be inthe 300 plus range and even 400 after i reach that..its just that i do not want to buy parts that i will need to replace later when i get bored of what i already got. I know the parts i have right now will be able to reach 300+ its just that im unfimiliar with how the whole fuel system works such as a walbro, a fpr and injectors with a p28 with a base map from phearable...is that all i need or am i missing something??

 

Another question.... what is a wideband? and what purpose does it serve and is it absolutly neccesary? I know i will need to upgrade my map sensor once i up the boost over 10 psi but do i really need a wideband?

 

big,wide rubber-band. holds your BOV and wastegate together as 'one'. not needed if you have 2 medium bands, going wide is just for show and bling. Stick with what's proven, go with medium.

 

^^^????? I don't think this is what the OP talking about........
Wideband is just an O2 style sensor that measures Air/Fuel ratio.
If you are boosting, than this is an absolute must.
It's way too easy to assume you are getting correct Air/Fuel, and can be disastrous if you lean out your motor, even for a short time.....
I use a basic AEM setup, with a nice digital guage, which you can mount wherever you like. Any decent parts store will be able to hook you up with one, usually running in the $100-$200 range.
Good Luck!

 

you didn't catch the humor ? I wanted the OP to SEARCH rather than ask what has been written 100s of times before.

 

Although hilarious... that's just mean

Wideband oxygen sensor it gives you the stoichmetric reading of the exhaust gases. It basically tells you how rich or lean your engine is running. (rich means too much fuel for how much oxygen is in the cylinder during the combustion process... lean means too much air not enough fuel during the combustion process.... a lean condition can lead to detonation which is also referred to as pre-ignition... what this means is that the air/fuel mix in the cylinder is ignited on the ignition stroke of the engine prior to the spark plug being fired. This can cause catastrophic failure within the engine.) (you should search all these terms on here and google to get more familiar with them and understand them more.)

Do you need one? no not really... as long as your tuner used one and set up everything safe you should be fine... if you plan on tuning it yourself (which I don't recomend) then yes you need one...

As far as not understanding the whole fuel system...

Walbro pumps more volume at a higher pressure... this allows the higher flow injectors to spray more fuel into the cylinders... however the ECU needs to tell the injectors how much fuel to let into the cylinders... this in turn is determined by a trial and error process of datalogging wideband o2 sensor readings against the dutycycles of the injectors...

The ECU will also control the timing of the spark plugs ignition point... for boosted engines you need to adjust the timing of the spark event as pressure increases in order to prevent pre-ignition...

A good tuner will use the EGT to make sure the timing is ok and a wideband O2 to keep the air/fuel ratio in check. and a dyno to quantify what kind of power the adjustments are making.

In your case... DO NOT do this and think it's going to be throughing on a fuel pump and injectors and getting a base map from whoever does your ECU...

YOU NEED TO GET TUNED BY A PROFESSIONAL YOU SHOULD ALLOW AT LEAST 500 FOR THIS.

Also your set up as above will in no way support the power you want... you will NEED pistons/rods before you go over 200-220hp.

Also for your power goals the log manifold might not be the best to hit 400hp... the other thing you should keep in mind is that 400hp on a D is basically race gas only... and even then you might need to start digging into some headwork.

If you want a reliable car you have to do it right and even then that's no guarantee... a perfectly well built engine in the hands of a qualified tuner can blow up while tuning... or while driving for a million different reasons... one injector goes bad while you're in high boost and that's it for the whole engine.

I'd suggest turboing the car as is for a while and getting it tuned properly... drive it for a while and see how you like it... then save up some money and make sure you do a LOT of research into more of this then go from there...

A 350-400hp build for driving around will probobly end up in the neighborhood of 3-5k and that's without going all pimp on everything.

 

Thanks guys for being so supportive with all the information you have given.... Currently i just ordered the vitara piston and eagle rod package with bearings and all the gaskets so im taking my motor to a shop to have the motor notched for the rods and have everything installed....after im calling parris engine dynamics to get a good tune...

 

Thanks For the Info!