need J&S Version 2 install help
01-31-2002, 09:12 AM
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need J&S Version 2 install help
I'm having problems installing a J&S Version 2 with gauge. I re-checked all the wiring, and I can't seem to figure it out.
Install is on a 98 Prelude with an F-max kit.
I cannot get the gauge to work. This is the new style round gauge. Is the jumper suppose to be on the gauge when hooking up both the O2 and the knock monitor. It doesn't specifically say if it should or not in the instructions. I hooked up the monitor to the unit, and then the 3 wires. The one with clear shield to O2 sensor, black to SG2 (which is sensor ground), and then the one with no shield on it to chassis ground. The wire wasn't very long, so I extended it with another piece of wire. The gauge does nothing, doesn't light up or anything. I used the same wires from when there wan an autometer A/F gauge hooked up.
Now, for the map limiter. I matched the voltages from the in and out, but still got a check engine light. Do I want to move it so that the "out" has more or less voltage in order for the ECU to not see boost.
Lastly, are there any suggestions for the "start" and "rate" buttons on a motor running 7 psi.
Thanks and sorry for the long post.
Install is on a 98 Prelude with an F-max kit.
I cannot get the gauge to work. This is the new style round gauge. Is the jumper suppose to be on the gauge when hooking up both the O2 and the knock monitor. It doesn't specifically say if it should or not in the instructions. I hooked up the monitor to the unit, and then the 3 wires. The one with clear shield to O2 sensor, black to SG2 (which is sensor ground), and then the one with no shield on it to chassis ground. The wire wasn't very long, so I extended it with another piece of wire. The gauge does nothing, doesn't light up or anything. I used the same wires from when there wan an autometer A/F gauge hooked up.
Now, for the map limiter. I matched the voltages from the in and out, but still got a check engine light. Do I want to move it so that the "out" has more or less voltage in order for the ECU to not see boost.
Lastly, are there any suggestions for the "start" and "rate" buttons on a motor running 7 psi.
Thanks and sorry for the long post.
01-31-2002, 09:29 AM
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Re: need J&S Version 2 install help (girlRacer)
I'm not sure about your A/F deal - you may want to check your wire extension with a multimeter and double-check your ground; that gauge is very sensitive to grounding. Also if the gauge is switched to "POWER" instead of "CRUISE" it simply will not light up under most conditions (AF is leaner than the "power" range). It also takes a couple minutes after startup for it to start reading even on cruise setting. The jumper on the back seems to do very little; I would leave it connected.
The MAP voltages you may need to turn down a little bit - if you checked it with the engine off, the voltage will indicate slightly lower than when the engine is running (battery voltage vs. alternator voltage). Check it with the engine running and the MAP sensor disconnected from the intake manifold if you can do so; otherwise just turn it down in TINY increments until the CEL doesn't come back on.
As far as the boost retard goes... it depends on your base timing. If your base timing is at stock setting, I would start retarding at 0-2 psi and pull a little more than a degree per psi from there up. If your timing was retarded when you installed the turbo kit, you can get away with less boost retard (or better yet, set your base timing BACK to stock and use the boost retard instead). It's always better to set the boost retard higher than you need, and then turn it down a little bit at a time, watching the detonation meter until you know what's safe.
One last thing - wiggle the plug around where the gauge connects to the safeguard - I've had some really strange problems solved just by doing that!
The MAP voltages you may need to turn down a little bit - if you checked it with the engine off, the voltage will indicate slightly lower than when the engine is running (battery voltage vs. alternator voltage). Check it with the engine running and the MAP sensor disconnected from the intake manifold if you can do so; otherwise just turn it down in TINY increments until the CEL doesn't come back on.
As far as the boost retard goes... it depends on your base timing. If your base timing is at stock setting, I would start retarding at 0-2 psi and pull a little more than a degree per psi from there up. If your timing was retarded when you installed the turbo kit, you can get away with less boost retard (or better yet, set your base timing BACK to stock and use the boost retard instead). It's always better to set the boost retard higher than you need, and then turn it down a little bit at a time, watching the detonation meter until you know what's safe.
One last thing - wiggle the plug around where the gauge connects to the safeguard - I've had some really strange problems solved just by doing that!
01-31-2002, 09:33 AM
#3
What is this crap?
Re: need J&S Version 2 install help (girlRacer)
the monitor is finicky, but when you get it right, it will work fine. i had to get a new 1/8" jack cable to replace the one that goes from the J&S to the monitor. the one they sent me had an intermittend failure on one of the ends.
i had mine connected the same way except i didnt connect the chassis ground. i left that unused. if you have this disconnected, then leave the jumper in place behind the monitor. you'll get it.
as far as setting the map limiter, turn the car on (dont start the engine) and set it so the led is just about to light up, that will set it at atmospheric, since the MAP sensor is reading the current air pressure (no vacuum since motor is off).
i am assuming you're running a turbo. for the boost retard start, set it between 0 and 1 psi (i think thats around 7-8o'clock) and set it straight up for 1 degree of retard per pound of boost. this is probably too much retard, but its a safe place to start. set your timing to 16degrees and give it a try.
as far as the 2,4,6,8 degrees of retard between 2500-5000rpm, you'll have to give that a try to see what works, also. try setting it to 2 and see how it runs.
as far as setting the sensitivity, i think its a good idea to set this without boosting, right at 0psi if you can. of you can set your WG to prevent ANY boost, then that would work great.
Joe
i had mine connected the same way except i didnt connect the chassis ground. i left that unused. if you have this disconnected, then leave the jumper in place behind the monitor. you'll get it.
as far as setting the map limiter, turn the car on (dont start the engine) and set it so the led is just about to light up, that will set it at atmospheric, since the MAP sensor is reading the current air pressure (no vacuum since motor is off).
i am assuming you're running a turbo. for the boost retard start, set it between 0 and 1 psi (i think thats around 7-8o'clock) and set it straight up for 1 degree of retard per pound of boost. this is probably too much retard, but its a safe place to start. set your timing to 16degrees and give it a try.
as far as the 2,4,6,8 degrees of retard between 2500-5000rpm, you'll have to give that a try to see what works, also. try setting it to 2 and see how it runs.
as far as setting the sensitivity, i think its a good idea to set this without boosting, right at 0psi if you can. of you can set your WG to prevent ANY boost, then that would work great.
Joe
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