ProjectXaccord

I gonna be getting my ls vtec together in week or so. i got all the right goodies going into building it, nippon pistons, arp gsr head bolts/ rod bolts, b16 head with gsr valvetrain n cams, new everything else. blah blah blah.

This is gonna be my daily driver on 15 lbs of boost while my lude is down (building a sleeved h22 30lbs of boost and 100 nos).

my questions is i know all the down falls of the ls vtec... but just want to know how long you guys have been driving yours. if this motor takes a ****, i already got another to put back in it. i am just curious, how long they live driving on the street.

i know that some dont last long and blah blah blah. i just want to know how long you been driving yours. i know that this has been asked a 100,000 times but i am old and busy so i dont have time to sit here for hours searching and reading.

civickiller

100k at least, nitrous,na,turbo raced every weekend with a 8500 redline. Smokes but never had an issue. '07 when I did mine and still going

ProjectXaccord

thanks for the grown up reply. i am one that just likes to know how long on average they live. last time i posted up something like this i had a buncha internet smart *** kids throwing in there 2 cents.

civickiller

Just sure it has a vtec oil pump.

But I hear some lsv's don't even last a year. Idk I just might be lucky *knock on wood*

Annihilator

Isn't there a thread comparing the internals of an LS oil pump vs an ITR oil pump? I'm about 90% sure that all b18 pumps are internally the same. Granted, I run an ITR pump on my LS-T setup...just saw that thread after I finished my build.

ProjectXaccord

from what i understand, gsr and usdm type r and b16 are all the same oil pump. i do have a fresh b16 oil pump going on there. i am more concerned with the side loading of the pistons because of the r/s ratio and what effect that has on the rod bearings, the rings, piston side walls and rings. i dont plan on spinning this motor over 7800 rpms because of this.

just trying to come up with a back up plan if it takes a ****. basically when i need to rebuild my ls and have it ready to swap in. i know that these motors arent ticking time bombs if built right. mixed reviews on them bc some dumb *** didnt check the line bore on a 20 year old ls block and it ate the bearings or rod bearing clearance was to lose and it spun in the caps.

too many different variables.

ProjectXaccord

matter of fact i think all b series oil pumps are the same besides the ones that are obd1 and obd2.

B and B

iTrader: (3)

This one is spinning pretty good...sounds sick..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv7M7PSLww0

AllShowNoGo727

iTrader: (1)

LS VTEC ALL DAY

BigMike0147

All OBD2 pumps are the same (same part number). The OBD1 pumps do differ. For these pumps there is one major difference from what I've researched, a single washer before the relief spring. This allows for more oil pressure.

Anyways, I'll be using an OBD2 oil pump in my build. Just make sure that you have an OBD2 lower timing cover

A lil 2.3l action

It depends on how its built and driven. Ive seen plenty last 100k.

ProjectXaccord

i guess 100k is about how long they last. what in the bottomend lets go? cylinder walls, rod bearing or piston/ piston rings?

i know he ls bottomend is pretty strong, mine current ls has 227,000 miles on it, when i did my swap it had 170,000. been boosted since 170 and the head gasket finally let loose on cyl #2 and #3. still runs, just a blow by into the jacket and been driving it like that for a month.

Mattb16teg

Honestly it's the same as any engine, it all depends on how it is built, driven and tuned. This is 2011 and we have come a long way in regards to issues with LsVtec setups being "unreliable". Those issues were from people not knowing what they were doing 10 or more years ago!

The main issue I see currently is with stupid people who assume they can rev the **** out of an LS bottom end(most of the times stock) because it has a vtec head on it, which really isn't the case.

My old built ls vtec lasted about 5 years with no mechanical issues at all. Made 210 whp, was raced about 50 times at the track and driven hard all the time. Not really sure how many miles I racked up on it.

I would ensure the cyl walls are clean and not scored or cracked before you do anything else.

AllShowNoGo727

iTrader: (1)

^ +1 if its built right you should be good to go ls vtec has been refined and works well when done right.

ProjectXaccord

checking those things are the regular part of building motor. i am not new to building motors. i have probably built 100 motors in the last 17 years i been messing with hondas. just never had respect for ls vtec until i built one for someone a few months back. i have the block at the machinist getting the line bore checked, the cyl deglazed, and getting the crank journals checked. the head is getting rebuild, pressure tested, new guides, 3 angle valve job, new seals, and the cam journals checked.

I would balance the assembly but i dont have the time to weight match all the pistons/ rods assembly and wait 2 weeks for balancing. i have 2 weeks to get it in the car running, tune it and have the ac blowing cold. i dont want to dump anymore money into this build. this is just my beater daily driver eg cx hatch.

I am a tuner with regular access to a dyno, so tuning is not a problem. i tune my **** on the street then clean up high cam on the dyno. and on my own **** will spend weeks tweeking the fuel tables to get it to run like stock, even with 880 pte's my **** idled like stock at 800 rpms without hickup.

damn 5 years is a good amount of time even with beating on it. how high were you revving the motor up to? obviously not 10,000 rpms like some dumbasses do. then cry on here saying its a unreliable motor. i was going to cap my revs to 7500-7800 even if it still makes power after that. a street driven motor usually doesnt see that rpm anyway unless you are a douche bag ricer that thinks they are a racer.

Mattb16teg

I wasn't making assumptions about you or your skills, just stating some general facts.

Around 8200. With Pistons, rods and ARP rod bolts.

Do it, you will be fine with your level of skill, good luck!

ProjectXaccord

my bad man, i just keep hearing, its reliable as long as it built right, built right, built right..blah, blah, blah blah tuned yeah yeah yeah yeah. anything is unreliable when not built right or tuned right. for example. i posted up here a few years back, asking how long guys have been driving there stock boosted h22. i kept getting man its all in the tune, man its all in the tune...blah blah. i wanted to know how long those guys have been driving them. never got a str8 answer. guess what, my 11:1 type s h22 lasted me 3years with going to the track and beating the **** out of it on the street.

if i could go back in time 3 years ago and just post up my own reply to myself, i would tell myself, it lasted 3 years as long as your dumbass dont over rev it by accident trying to get out into traffic and missing 2nd gear because your clutch was a piece if ****. that was a stock 11:1 type s h22 on 8lbs of boost.

i built this motor and bout the right stuff based on the my known weaknesses of the ls motor, what is required for vtec and what is required to rebuild a old *** motor. i know you cant spin a ls to 8k bc i have seen a bunch douches that did, and spun bearings because the rod bolts were designed for that amount of clamping force. with the arp rod bolts the tensile strength is higher on the bolt. the stroke stroke ratio is a little less the a gsr. so it would be fine to spin the motor up to 8k once that upgrade is done.

i did not put together my parts list searching the forum, i put it together based on the ls motors weaknesses.

but thanks for your input, i am impressed with 5 years of driving on it. Thats actually makes me feel pretty good about the last one that i built. i built that one the same way i am putting together mine, minus it was a gsr long block with itr valve train in the head. so there was no need for the vtec conversion kit. i bypassed the oil squrters also to get more oil pressure everywhere else. street driven so it didnt them.

ProjectXaccord

anyone else want to chime in? just need days, weeks, or years info. dont need the build help.

civickiller

My limiter on my lsvtec for 5 years has been at 8500. Completely stock ls block, stock gsr head with b16 cams and itr im

I have a theory about how to tell which obd the pump is. I would only run only obd2 vtec oil pumps which all obd2 are vtec pumps

Obd2 pumps have a big eagle looking thing on front
obd1 has a smaller one on the front
obd0 has a small one on the back

please someone correct me if I'm wrong

ProjectXaccord

look at the pump housing. there is no more obd1 pumps sold anymore if you buy one new, its obd2. difference is obd2 has the crank sensor mounted on the crank. and all obd2 b series pumps are the same. read my post couple posts up.

ok..8500 rpms and you been beating on it for 5 years. turbo?

civickiller

actually when it was turboed, I had a redline of 8700.

Yeah the Obd2 has the crank sensor but what if it's just the pump itself.

The timing gear? is on the crank but the sensor is mounted to the block

kyden

the obd2 units will have mounting bosses for the sensor on them.