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After a lot of part swapping, having a child, I have finally had the time and funds to finish this build. My previous Non v put down 362whp / 306tq. This time, I am hoping for 420whp with 17-20 psi.
I recently bought a p28 with Neptune RTP, which I plan to tune it myself with assistance. Knowing it will awhile to learn, I considered local street tune, perhaps remote tuning, but I really want to learn instead of just handing over money without learning a thing. Anyone interesting teaching me, giving me a few hours of time and walking through the program and teach me the process, I would be willing to pay for your time. I have a few good videos on youtube I plan to watch once my long block is assembled. One thing at a time.
I filled the block with devcon liquid aluminum from top of water pump hole to the deck. Doesn't look pretty but its going to function as intended. Where the block rested was not entirely level but it was close enough. Today I taped some 180 grit sand paper to a piece of marble and spent a few minutes knocking down a couple high spots. Forgot my headgasket at home so I will be drilling holes for the coolant passages, along with assembling the Block / head next week.
Last edited by TravisBiggie; 02-26-2016 at 10:14 PM.
This is badass, definitely my kind of build. Keep on posting man I wanna see what this thing makes.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by Stopsign32v
Is that a poor man's sleeving the block method? I would be concerned with air bubbles (which I can see).
Yes it is.
I was concerned about the air bubbles initially, but they worked themselves out over a few hours. Now they are just tiny dots, there is no open space below the pin holes you see where the air bubbles were.
what did you use in the block to space up the devcon so the coolant can move laterally? i would also go back over the 180 grit with finer grits on that marble by hand. if im cleaning a deck surface at home ill make a sanding block and use scotchbrite grey and then white just until it looks even. always do it by hand only and keep light but even pressure.
not to knock on this, but for less than your pistons and rods cost you could have had css done. for your power goals though you really didnt need any of that.
i like the rest of your setup it will work nice. i tuned a stock ls on those brian crower cams and the power really came on just before 5000 rpm it pulled great comparable to a vtec
what did you use in the block to space up the devcon so the coolant can move laterally? i would also go back over the 180 grit with finer grits on that marble by hand. if im cleaning a deck surface at home ill make a sanding block and use scotchbrite grey and then white just until it looks even. always do it by hand only and keep light but even pressure.
not to knock on this, but for less than your pistons and rods cost you could have had css done. for your power goals though you really didnt need any of that.
i like the rest of your setup it will work nice. i tuned a stock ls on those brian crower cams and the power really came on just before 5000 rpm it pulled great comparable to a vtec
I used salt to space it out, it was very easy to use and pack down. before I did It was nervous as hell. I know I could have gotten css for ~$400, but I did this for 65$. Yeah, I don't need it, but I wouldn't be surprised if I pushed it to 600whp in the future, plus the extra support is always nice after cracking a sleeve in the past. I am excited to use the cams... My last setup red lined at 6800 RPMS, and I've never driven a vtec car. Sad.
Good start to your build, I also have a non vtec build with a holset.
Where did you purchase your turbo? billet wheel is nice but beware that your most builds usually run into Exhaust side restriction (housing/wheel) with 35/40 hybrids before you max out even the factory Compressor wheel.
Good start to your build, I also have a non vtec build with a holset.
Where did you purchase your turbo? billet wheel is nice but beware that your most builds usually run into Exhaust side restriction (housing/wheel) with 35/40 hybrids before you max out even the factory Compressor wheel.
Good luck with the build, in for results.
I bought the hx35 locally for $200 in working condition. I bought the wheel, comp housing, and machining service from turbo lab.
I see many diesel guys run these things to 40 psi, but the restriction seems to be at 40 psi and beyond for a hx35/40. I never plan to run 40 psi, and if I do, I'll get a straight hx40 for that.
What kind of holset do you have? and what is your setup?
So I dropped the bare head off yesterday to get resurfaced and tanked. Got it back today, and removed the valve train, ground the seats, sand blasted/ground the valves, and installed crower valve springs. I personally don't do any head work since Ive never done it nor have the tools, but it was nice that the old man let me install the valves/springs/retainers/keepers. I can assemble blocks but still learning with heads.
Yesterday I was going to attempt to start assembling the rotating assembly. chcked gaps, checked the p2w clearance, but found out my ACL bearings had PITTING in them, so I decided not to use them and bought another set.
Top rings : .016
2nd rings : .017-.018
According to the ring end gap chart
top ring formula - bore (81mm, 3.18898") x .0050" = .0159449
2nd ring formula - bore (81mm, 3.18898") x .0055" = .017539
With feeler gauge, the top rings won't fit .015, but will fit .016 snugly, so safe to say, the tops are .016.
Bottom ring : .017 will fit through it no problem, and .018 will not fit. safe to say its right in the middle as the formula calls for, best part, I DIDNT HAVE TO GAP THEM AT ALL!
P2W clearance : inbetween .0035" - .004". I was hoping for .004" - .0045", but I think what I have will do fine.
I bought the hx35 locally for $200 in working condition. I bought the wheel, comp housing, and machining service from turbo lab.
I see many diesel guys run these things to 40 psi, but the restriction seems to be at 40 psi and beyond for a hx35/40. I never plan to run 40 psi, and if I do, I'll get a straight hx40 for that.
What kind of holset do you have? and what is your setup?
top ring formula - bore (81mm, 3.18898") x .0050" = .0159449
2nd ring formula - bore (81mm, 3.18898") x .0055" = .017539
With feeler gauge, the top rings won't fit .015, but will fit .016 snugly, so safe to say, the tops are .016.
Bottom ring : .017 will fit through it no problem, and .018 will not fit. safe to say its right in the middle as the formula calls for, best part, I DIDNT HAVE TO GAP THEM AT ALL!
P2W clearance : inbetween .0035" - .004". I was hoping for .004" - .0045", but I think what I have will do fine.
that P2W should be perfect. 0.004"-0.0045" is a bit on the big side for your bore, and would probably slap around a lot during normal driving even when fully warmed up, which can actually accelerate their wear.
and opposite that, those ring gaps seem a bit small. for your power goals of 420whp you might want to use 0.0055 conversion for top ring and 0.0060 conversion for second ring. though I suppose this would depend on what brand rings you're using, and what alloy metal they're made of.
in my experience with my motor (very similar to b18a/b), 0.005/0.0055 conversion is best for ~14psi and under, and 0.0055/0.006 conversion is best for 15psi and up.
that P2W should be perfect. 0.004"-0.0045" is a bit on the big side for your bore, and would probably slap around a lot during normal driving even when fully warmed up, which can actually accelerate their wear.
and opposite that, those ring gaps seem a bit small. for your power goals of 420whp you might want to use 0.0055 conversion for top ring and 0.0060 conversion for second ring. though I suppose this would depend on what brand rings you're using, and what alloy metal they're made of.
in my experience with my motor (very similar to b18a/b), 0.005/0.0055 conversion is best for ~14psi and under, and 0.0055/0.006 conversion is best for 15psi and up.
I was planning to file the 2nd ring, but I think I'm going to gap the tops a bit more as well. On my other block I had, set up for 500whp, I did .019 and .023 on the bottom.
ah nice, nice small turbine for excellent response. power goal? fuel?
Car was making low 400 this past season. Fuel is pump e85, beefed up my fuel system for this season aiming for 500 this season of the hotside will allow me to do so.
If you need to add concrete to your block and buy a diesel turbo maybe you shouldnt be messing with motors or buildig them
maybe if you can't respect people and their builds, you shouldn't be posting. Your time on here will be limited if you continue to post posts like so with your whole total of 5 posts.
So, let me understand, just because filling a block, and buying a diesel turbo, is cheaper than traditional methods and turbos, makes me unworthy of having this build? talk about materialistic! I think someone is just angry that I spent 60$ on a sleeve job compared to their $1,500 sleeves that sunk :D
dont let it get you down man, there is nothing wrong with budget builds. I get mocked on occasion too for the cheap routes I take for certain things on my personal car, but plain and simple if it works it works. if it doesnt, well, do it again a little different lol.
and for the record, a deisel turbo vs a standard turbo is not even an argument. they are the same thing to most extents. deisel turbos often times are actually better
maybe if you can't respect people and their builds, you shouldn't be posting. Your time on here will be limited if you continue to post posts like so with your whole total of 5 posts.
So, let me understand, just because filling a block, and buying a diesel turbo, is cheaper than traditional methods and turbos, makes me unworthy of having this build? talk about materialistic! I think someone is just angry that I spent 60$ on a sleeve job compared to their $1,500 sleeves that sunk :D
So nobody can make a comment if it isnt telling you "good job little man. You did good"??
ever heard of the saying "if you have nothing nice to say, say nothing at all?"
its okay, literally all 7 posts you made, were trolling. I can take criticism, but youre insulting me, telling me I shouldn't be messing with motors or building them. Thats when you crossed the line, but I don't expect a person like you to understand.
He obviously the bigger man here, insulting people, then says not to post on a public forum. We aren't here to be harassed and insulted, but this is not as public as you think. Anyone can post here, but its privately owned. Have you even read the rules for this forum? apparently not.
dont let it get you down man, there is nothing wrong with budget builds. I get mocked on occasion too for the cheap routes I take for certain things on my personal car, but plain and simple if it works it works. if it doesnt, well, do it again a little different lol.
and for the record, a deisel turbo vs a standard turbo is not even an argument. they are the same thing to most extents. deisel turbos often times are actually better
I'm known for doing stuff like this. Its just most people are materialistic just like the douche bag posting. They think about what others think before they think about practicality, performance, and application.
His life must suck if he only spends his time trolling a honda forum.
I had a sleeved block, and a precision turbo before all of this. Money is not the issue, its more about practicality. Filling my block will hold my power level and MORE, for a FRACTION of the price (win) Same with the turbo. The 450$ holset I have will performance just as well as the $1000 precision I had.
Its about what you know, and what works. Regardless, even if I was on a budget, its my build! not yours!
02-26-2016, 09:57 PM
My Non Vtec, Holset build thread progress
