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Why did you sell that block then fill this one with concrete?
Because youre a scammer
there is no info there to back up your claim. so as usual, your posts are invalid and unwanted. not sure what you're trying to accomplish, but all you're doing is looking like a fool and a troll.
back on topic, and I vote ignore them from here on out
there is no info there to back up your claim. so as usual, your posts are invalid and unwanted. not sure what you're trying to accomplish, but all you're doing is looking like a fool and a troll.
back on topic, and I vote ignore them from here on out
scammer? Lol. Great bait.
It looks like the email I sent got him banned. Good game.
Got sick for a week so that pushed me back. Should be assembling the short block any day now. In the mean time, I wrapped my manifold with DEI wrap. Didn't come out the way I wanted, but nonetheless, close enough and it looks good. Im considering to put another layer of wrap on the high points of the manifold which are close to the hood. I wrapped this manifold before, and it still cooked the hell out of my hood, which I want to prevent. Should I put another layer at the top? (I have enough to wrap the high points on all 4 runners)
I use that heatshield tape on all my cold side charge piping so it doesn't heatsoak from engine bay temps. My IATs dropped considerably after put it on. works great from my experience
I use that heatshield tape on all my cold side charge piping so it doesn't heatsoak from engine bay temps. My IATs dropped considerably after put it on. works great from my experience
Interesting. Seems a little expensive though. I wonder if ceramic vht flameproof paint would do anything, I'm sure something but not like the tape.
Interesting. Seems a little expensive though. I wonder if ceramic vht flameproof paint would do anything, I'm sure something but not like the tape.
well it comes in different styles of sheets and rolls of tape. the tape I use is about $15-$20 for a 3"x15' roll iirc. well worth the cost for the lower iat if you ask me. durable too, I've had it on my pipes for about 6 years now and it still looks as if I installed it just minutes ago. and i disassemble and reassemble my stuff several times a year too.
oh, look at the plug on my alternator too, same tape. its practically touching the manifold. I've had this setup for about 8-9 years now. I melted the plug the first year when it had the stock rubber boot, coincidentally the boot did not melt, but the plastic plug did. this was actually the whole reason I bought the tape to begin with. taped the boot as seen in the pic, 7 years later the plug still looks brand new. about a year after seeing how well it worked is when I taped up all the cold side piping, and some other bits down near my dumptube just as a precautionary measure
I only wrapped the cold side, because I don't have any hot side piping haha. well I do, but less than 1/4" of it is visible, as my compressor is only about 4 inches from my intercooler. compressor -> coupler -> small section of pipe just for connecting -> elbow coupler -> intercooler.
the question of whether to wrap the hot side piping too would depend on the air temp coming out of the compressor in relation to ambient temp at that exact location in the engine bay.
IE:
1) outlet temp: 210F
half rad on passenger side, all hot side piping on drivers side, ambient temp at pipe location will always be lower than 210F, so you don't want to wrap it because ambient air helps cool it before it reaches the intercooler.
2) outlet temp: 180F
full sized rad, hot side piping passes over the turbo and/or directly through the stream of air exiting the radiator, ambient temps may reach more than 180 at times, so you may want to wrap. may.
there are online calculators you can use to determine compressor outlet temp according to inlet temp and boost pressure, though it does not account for heatsoak through the housing.
also to note, according to my dyno numbers, both my turbo and my fmic are maxed out. My IAT's are almost always only 20 degreesF above ambient temp, unless I'm doing a bunch of stop and go or slow driving. and my sensor is still in the stock location; top of runner #1. even in a full drag run, sometimes up to a half mile, IAT's actually drop initially, then creep up a bit, but still never exceed 20-22 degrees above ambient. and my IAT sensor is modded to expose the element too, so it's not a matter of response time
well it comes in different styles of sheets and rolls of tape. the tape I use is about $15-$20 for a 3"x15' roll iirc. well worth the cost for the lower iat if you ask me. durable too, I've had it on my pipes for about 6 years now and it still looks as if I installed it just minutes ago. and i disassemble and reassemble my stuff several times a year too.
I saw some cars a while back using heat wrap and was considering it. Anybody have any experience with it on charge pipes?
I saw some cars a while back using heat wrap and was considering it. Anybody have any experience with it on charge pipes?
I saw this thread last week and it inspired me to wrap cold side charge pipe with DEI lava wrap, beacause thats what I had leftover from my manifold.
It was getting pretty hot from the hot air coming off my radiator, Havent tested it since the wrap but a quality wrap should actually work better then the tape, the tape comes in handy when you are unable to wrap such as flat surfaces
Put the short block together today. I know this picture would look better with clean pistons, but honestly, **** it. Theyre just going to look like this anyway.
Piston to wall clearance
.0035" - .004"
1st ring : .016" - .017" (3.19 x .0050" = .01595")
2nd ring : .017 - .018" (3.19 x .0055" = .01754")
Main bearings = .0015" - .0017"
Rod bearings = .0015" across
Guess your thread attracts a lot of clowns here, Travis
Maybe Im misunderstanding the difference between heat wrap and heat tape? Oooh, okay by wrapping tape it becomes heat wrap like the kind you would use on a header, cool. Or Sorry for not being 1st grade clear, I will much clearer next time I do apologize for that.
Thanks skdrift that's were I was trying to get to. I'll be trying that too.
Travis I'm sorry if something was not worded correctly I just though maybe more information could be contributed. Look forward to the final result and to possibly learn a thing or two. Once again sorry wasn't trying to blow up your thread with bs.