tried to crank it again the starter just clicks whenever i turn my key. checked all the grounds except the one on my wiring harness, theres a ground wire thats supose to be hooked up on the T housing, when i was doing the wiring tuck i think i misplaced that wire somewhere or cut it off(not sure). i know its supose to bolt up on the t housing but where does it lead to at the ECU?


Modified by one-cam at 11:18 PM 10/31/2008

 

I'm not sure about that one. But if your starter just clicks it means that solenoid won't kick in, nothing to do with your motor not kicking in. I don't have EF wiring diagram, if you got a manual you can trace it.

 

yeah it just clicks, you talking about the solenoid on the starter or what? ill change the starter with a different one and see if it helps. im going to tear down the engine again right after(if) it cranks

 

My buddy had a shop do his b20z and when the rod bolts are torqued the crank will not spin w/o a lot of force. I just looked at it yesterday, curious w people think about your issue as it may help my buddy. You've f'd your rod bearings at this point too i'd assume because that's what happened to his as well with the same problem.

 

I had a similar situation with my starter last summer. Ended up being a ground for my starter. The only way I was able to start the car was to pop-start it (pop the clutch while in gear while rolling) Other than that, it would just sit and click for ever. Try this out...
Take a pair of jumper cables.
Hook one end of the ground wire on the jumper cables to a spot on the starter housing (i.e. one of the starter bolts, or the very outside of the starter, basically somewhere with a good cable to metal connection,) then hook the other end of the jumper cable to a groundable spot on the chassis, then try starting your car.
If it starts, you have a ground issue and just need to run a ground wire from your starter to your chassis.
If it doesnt start, then this is not the issue with your car, and I just wasted a lot of time typing lol!

Quick question... What is with everyone saying that the t-fitting for your oil feed line (coming off the back of your block) will break?

 

as u can see in the picture how long it is and that bung is alot of weight + its too damn thin and thats why it would break. thanks for that info ill forsure try that in the am

 

Ahhh, I see. Youre welcome! Cool build man!

 

Nobody has any input as to why his crank isn't spinning freely? He doesn't have the head on I don't think from w I've read and i'm curious about this...I might post it somewhere to get an opinion.

 

other day i pulled the car around the block with my truck, put it in gear so the engine spins freely. i put oil in just to make sure nothing gets burnt. we pulled it around the block a few times then put it back in the garage, pulled the engine out, took everything apart and everything spins freely now. all the bearings are how they supose to be. before it gets assembled its supose to be stiff (i guess) but for now everything is how its supose to be. one thing im having trouble is finding the t housing ground on the engine harness. ill open up a pic request thread to see if any1 can help

 

got the engine to crank my i think my dizzy is not firing properly, is there a way to identify dizzys by codes stamped on it?