ok i started my build on a low budget so i can save up for a B series setup later on down the road. what im working on now is a y7 block with a z6 head. its going into a 90 dx which i converted to mpfi and as of now im converting it to obd1. just ordered a traction bar from explicitperformance.com and it should be here soon. riding on some koni yellows with skunk2 springs. fj distributors (randy.. i think thats his name) hooked me up with a good gasket kit for my setup, everything i needed. all the goodies that i got:

y7 block:
75.05 Vitara Pistons
Eagle Rods
FJT Block Guard
Aftermarket Water/Oil pump
z6 head:
Skunk2 Valves
Skunk2 Retainers
Skunk2 Springs
Unorthodox Racing Cam Gear
Turbo/EMS:
Apexi IHI BallBearing Turbo Kit
Hondata S300
Walbro fuel pump
DSM 450's
p28 ecu
obd0-obd1 conversion harness

Engine was built and timed by JL Engines in Alison, Iowa. They even gave me warranty on their work.

Theres a shop here in my town and they are going to do a custom 2 3/4 exhaust system for dirt cheap. So getting a hks or apexi really is a killer when it comes to money.

Here are some pictures.. ill edit the pictures to bigger size in the morning this was just a quicky lol.. more pictures to come tho stay tunedd


yes, all the honing was done by me and my brother..

as you can see the block guard was put in there about 3/4 of an inch for coolant issues.. and hopefully theres not

i read alot of threads and it says there should be notching of the girdle, i marked mine and i rotated the crank a few times. theres no hitting of the arp bolts against the girdle so i left it alone for now. theres not enough heat down there for that metal to expand so thats one of my reasons for leaving it as is

i got this turbo kit off ebay for dirt cheap $700. only 5k miles on it. theres a website on these turbos and how fast spooling they are so all the power gains are from 2k to 5k rpm

my oil feed and the oil pressure bung. i know what everybody thinks. its gunna break!!! well hopefully not until i get my oil filter adapter and ill put the oil feed on there...

yeah its huge


no that dipstick is not for that motor lol


Modified by one-cam at 4:01 PM 10/28/2008

 

looks like a good build, I just had one observation I think should be said.

In one of your pictures you can see the numbers on the rod beam and rod cap. I thought they had to be the same number. Thats how it was on my old scat rods. Like yours are 00802 and 00803, I though they stuck with the same number on the rod and cap so they would be put together in the correct order.

I may be totally wrong, but id check that **** out. Its how it was on my rods, but they were a different brand.


good luck.

 

that is when one of those parts goes wrong (like breaks) u call FJT and give them that number.. but yeah thanks alot

 

Ya i would ckeck those rods out the numbers should match. Also when you build a vitara u need to have the arrow pointing torwards the clutch side. A vitara engine has the head on backwards,so the valve cuts will be wrong if you have the arrows pointing at the timming belt. Take a look at the valve relifes the bigger cuts are for the intake valve. but you proubly wont have a problem cause the pistons dont come all the way up with the vitaras. good luck man

 

You paid $700 for an IHI turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pgpbubble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You paid $700 for an IHI turbo? </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you read a little closer it says "turbo kit" not just $700 for the turbo. You made me do a double-take because that's insane if it was just for the turbo

 

You said it your self, it will break. I was warned about the same thing but didn't listen. The damn thing snapped on mine even before I done 300 miles on it. If that thing breaks with the thread in the block then you're in for a serious painful job of drilling and re-tabbing the block and its a pain in the a$$ to work behind there in that tight space.

If I were you, I'd use another alternative before completing the build. Just my opinion as I learned the hard way.

 

the numbers on the rod and rod caps are supposed to match. if they are anything like eagle the numbers are in 2 pieces half on the the rod and half on the cap. because the are machined together. maybe it does not matter, but to be safe I would match them.

 

As others have stated...that oil system on your block is going to break and rip the threads out of your aluminum block and you'll be in a world of hurt pulling the motor out, re-tapping and getting all the shavings from tapping out of there. Do this: get a adapter to a -3an and run a -3an line to a oil block mounted on your firewall. This is what I made in my car. It takes care of the turbo oil feed, oil temp gauge, oil presure guage, and stock oil pressure sensor.....and it looks cool haha

 

thanks for all the input everyone.. where would u get that adapter?

im about to fire up my engine as soon as my map sensor comes in. is it safe to start a rebuilt engine with a 8pound flywheel? or should i use the stock one

 

The new fly wheel is ok, it won't make a difference except for your driving & to be honest I didn't notice much on mine on normal driving only up and down hill using ACT Pro light fly wheel.

 

dump stock pcv system. Doesn't work on na motors defently won't work on boosted motor. Also that a/f gauge isn't going to do you any good. Might want to make a new downpipe.

 

i got a edelbrock IM coming. im using that stock one for the start up. whats wrong with that down pipe? make bigger? 3inch..?

 

The problem with cast iron elbows is that they are restrictive as hell. Also since you are running internal wastegate you will need to get rid of resitrictions as much as possible, try to port wastegate opening. So not only you will loose power because of the the downpipe but you will also have crazy boost spike issues and you won't be able to boost as much as you won't. I had that issue with a greddy kit on a built b series, stock downpipe was so restrictive that I could not maintain steady boost past 11psi.

By looking at the last picture it looks like this downpipe is more restrictive then a greddy one. There is a bolt going thru it.

 

ur in the chitown area so maybe u should do the tune on my dondra .. im going to look into this downpipe problem, maybe get a different one soon.

im having a problem with my motor, when the machine shop put everything together, torqued all the bolts to proper spec, should the crank rotate easily by hand or..? i have to use a wrench to rotate mine around and its so hard to rotate it like they over tightened the bolts, yes they did use that engine assembly lube (i think). well thats what they said. and how strong is an si starter to turn the motor?

 

twell with pistons and rods out you can turn the crank by hand. Once you put the pistons and rods on it should still crank by hand if you grab the crank pulley. Once you put the head on, and timing belt, you will need a 1/2 ratchet to turn it. Did anybody check the clearances? I also see blue rtv on the oil pump, hopefully that stuff will seal. I'm a big fan of hondabond (best sealant ever!!!).

 

yeah they checked the clearances and said it was all in spec. i lost the numbers but i remember them saying the clearance on the rod was .038 not sure about the crank. i used that blue seal on my a6 motor, no leaks and i been driving it for about 15k miles

 

I hope you meant to say .38mm not 0.038mm nor .038"

 

i knew something wasnt right when i put that in there but yeah u were right about the downpipe. how the manufacturer made that bolt going through was a big mistake and u can see in this picture. i searched around for a good downpipe but nothing with the same flange as this. any suggestions?

 

yeah open the wastegate and start porting. Then go get a new flange (looks like t25/t28 but I might be wrong) for your downpipe some 3 inch stainless and fab up a new downpipe. Then get somebody to tig it. Take your time make sure everything fits snug, it takes a while but you will gain 20-30whp just by doing that. The reason why they did that is to make sure power steering and a/c still fits, you don't have any of that stuff. Also see if you can flip the turbo around the other way (compressor facing the trans), but you might not have enough room to do so with this manifold. It will help with routing the intercooler piping (downpipe won't get in the way, and won't heat up the air going out of the turbo). While you got the turbo off, you should see how restrictive the manifold opening is (greddy one was very messed up and you gain alot by porting it).


Modified by ABK at 12:09 AM 10/29/2008

 

thanks for the info. im on the way to the exhaust shop to see if they have any 3inch piping. ill start porting in the morning. gotta do my head also (intake side). ill look into getting a different ex manifold also, maybe ram? not sure which one with my setup. but yeah found that flange, looks like mine but why is the opening only 2". could it be made bigger?
http://turboaddictionparts.com...id=76

 

you need something like this it will be harder to fab up a transition
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...-FLS1

OR this more expensive but no need to make a transition
http://www.atpturbo.com/Mercha...-FLS1

 

im trying to get my engine to start but it wont turn over. it wont turn over because its a rebuilt engine and i think they over torqued it. i can turn the crank with a 1/2" ratchet but the starter doesnt have enough power to turn it over. any ideas?

 

does it take alot of force before you reach compression stroke to turn the engine with 1/2" ratchet? Maybe your battery is dead or starter is very weak.

If you really think bottom end is to tight, take it apart and recheck all the clearances. If they [freak]ed something up, they could of [freak]ed everything else up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by one-cam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for all the input everyone.. where would u get that adapter?

im about to fire up my engine as soon as my map sensor comes in. is it safe to start a rebuilt engine with a 8pound flywheel? or should i use the stock one</TD></TR></TABLE>

mcmaster