Yes, it will.

 

M&W Pro 10 right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To my understanding, all hall effect sensors output a square wave output, and the honda computer can't read that right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't the RPM signal a square wave signal?

 

Yes, the tach signal is a square wave signal, but it's not the signal in question.

 

but the ecu can read the square wave..... that is all I am trying to say. So we can modify the ECU to read it like the RPM does.....

I will look more into this when I get out of work.

 

It's a completely different circuit, won't work. The square wave stuff is on the output side of the ecu, not the input side.

 

It sucks because you will never see them make one for the H series!

 

haha jay....nobody makes anything for the H...lets put a B series in your car!

btw what do you want to do with my distributor thats on your car? buy it or give it back? haha. you should buy it so that i can affored injectors hahhaha

 

I have it sitting in my garage ill run it back up to the shop next week! Thanks

 

cool...did you just get another factory one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have no idea, but i find it hard to belive that an msd ignitor would be any more reliable than an oem ignitor. lol Your best bet is to run an M&W and remove the ignitor all together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I already sold the digital 6 and I will be buying M&W

wanna trade HVC coil for the one that works with M&W

 

You can use the HVC coil with the M&W.

 

anyone got a link to the M&W?

 

http://www.mwignitions.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jsprelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It sucks because you will never see them make one for the H series! </TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't matter anyway.. for (a litte less than) $200 more you can get an M&W ignition setup, eliminate the ignitor and run the "recommended Crane PS92 Coil". Keep the oem reliability and eliminate the OEM unreliability at the same time.

got caught up in the hype of this thread, but remembered some notes I had regaurding the M&W.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use the HVC coil with the M&W. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wouldn't it be better to run the Crane coil versus HVC or its the same?

 

I wish this thread could have stayed "tech" about the MSD distro.

 

i have done a couple of cars w/the msd dizzy...

it seems to work really well. the cam/crank signals are MUCH more stable than hte signals from the factory dizzy. From my understanding they use a hall effect pickup with some sort of circuitry to convert it into something the stock ecu can understand. w/the aem and the msd dizzy i can idle cars rock solid at 5-600rpms if i want. Thats impossible w/a mag pickup b/c the voltage output isnt strong enough, the only other thing i have been able to do that with is the cam gear/hall effect setup.

longevity is my only consern

 

Is the signal still strong in the 9k RPM + range?

I know in the OEM distributors the signal is a little sketchy at times. Especially using AEM EMS....

I still have not gotten an answer about being water tight.... Is this thing going to be prone to getting wet inside?

 

I did a little research....

If you all are tired of frying your OEM ignitors then just build this little circuit. I found this on pgmfi.org

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbocivic94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Tony, Can we run MSD ignitor with oem distirbutor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can't, i asked this last year and MSD told me it wouldn't work due to the way the signal is converted.

so basicly i need to get my trustly voltometer and put the leads on the - & + from the output wire from the ignitor???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tepid1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I did a little research....

If you all are tired of frying your OEM ignitors then just build this little circuit. I found this on pgmfi.org

</TD></TR></TABLE>

this was also integrated into the J&S ultrasafeguard as well, so in case you had one of the newer models (after 2004) then you can just wire it inline the ecu to a ignition box (MSD, M&W, autronic, take your pick) and boom ready to go.

i know someone locally just about a autronic R500 or soemthing, i **** myself to even think about dropping 1000 bucks on a ignition box, i guess that's what you need for his COP setup, but pretty nuts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you can't, i asked this last year and MSD told me it wouldn't work due to the way the signal is converted.

so basicly i need to get my trustly voltometer and put the leads on the - & + from the output wire from the ignitor???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not the ignitor, forget about the ignitor right now. That's on the output side. I'm talking about the "hall sensors" they use, which feed the engine position signals to the ecu. The 3 sensors that are inside the distributor, one has 1 tooth, one has 4, and one has 24 (obd1).

 

wouldn't the output of the hall sensor be the issue? as it triggers the ignitor? so input to ignitor would be output of hall sensor? hence the xtra plug with 5 wires or whatever that run to new ignitor circuit.


or am i just dumb since i live near wade?

 

****, now i get it, hall sensor outputs to ecu via the CPS wire correct? so i can just run the + from multimeter to that wire and then ground it to see wtf it does? but i'd have to think even if it was hall sensor, the conversion would be done inside the distributor, as the stock ecu can't accept that feed.

which is my guess at wtf you are getting to. so only real solution is....taking apart the dizzy?