MSD Pro Billet Distributor
this thread has alot of great info..
i came across this discussion on the hondata forums -> http://www.hondata.net/forum/v...rt=15
apparently some hondata ECU's have trouble with the MSD dist's signal.. have any of you guys encountered this issue before? or was it more likely a problem with the MSD dist itself?
i came across this discussion on the hondata forums -> http://www.hondata.net/forum/v...rt=15
apparently some hondata ECU's have trouble with the MSD dist's signal.. have any of you guys encountered this issue before? or was it more likely a problem with the MSD dist itself?
UPDATE: (October 19, 2006):
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal
That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal
That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">UPDATE: (October 19, 2006):
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal
That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If I was a cop, I'd tag yah for your radiator
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal
That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
</TD></TR></TABLE>If I was a cop, I'd tag yah for your radiator
well I'm glad I purchsed my dizzy from summit. I talked to he intelegent folks at MSD and they told me basically I knew nothing about the dizzy and that they would not replace the unit under their 1 year warranty for defects and workmanship. Called summit and they were like well, that sucks send it back in and we will get you a new one..
its seems to help to talk to the sport compact guys. because i talked to the regular guys about my tach messing up around 6500 and he told me to loop the blue wire to the negative side of the coil and i would be straight. well that fried the ignition driver and i am still waiting on a replacement. this happened in june. as for the tach i am open to any suggestions people can give me.
I was reading something the other day that reminded me of this thread. It's probably some good information for the people that were curious about how this distrbutor works.
Here's the link:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/inputHEI.htm
It's basically a series of different steps you can perform to get a clean low rpm/high temperature hall signal while using megasquirt.
One of the options (Option 3/3 at the bottom of the linked page), is to feed the hall (square wave) signal into an unmodified VR conditioning circuit.
The net effect of feeding a hall (square wave) signal through a VR conditioning circuit (like you would find inside of a honda ecu) would be inverting the square wave, as illustrated in the above picture (bottom half). With the MS you would have the option of changing the trigger condition to its opposite state, using the (high level) tuning/interface software. That's an option that you wouldn't have with the honda ecu.
So, for the MSD to be functional with the stock honda ecu circuit, all that would be required is to feed the hall signal to the ecu in its already inverted square wave state. I'm not sure if you can set up a hall sensor to output a signal like that, but I'm thinking that, if not, some simple supporting (low level) electronics could accomplish the task.
Here's the link:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/inputHEI.htm
It's basically a series of different steps you can perform to get a clean low rpm/high temperature hall signal while using megasquirt.
One of the options (Option 3/3 at the bottom of the linked page), is to feed the hall (square wave) signal into an unmodified VR conditioning circuit.
The net effect of feeding a hall (square wave) signal through a VR conditioning circuit (like you would find inside of a honda ecu) would be inverting the square wave, as illustrated in the above picture (bottom half). With the MS you would have the option of changing the trigger condition to its opposite state, using the (high level) tuning/interface software. That's an option that you wouldn't have with the honda ecu.
So, for the MSD to be functional with the stock honda ecu circuit, all that would be required is to feed the hall signal to the ecu in its already inverted square wave state. I'm not sure if you can set up a hall sensor to output a signal like that, but I'm thinking that, if not, some simple supporting (low level) electronics could accomplish the task.
I got my dizzy, driver and coil like a month ago and I haven't got to dyno the car yet. But I have also gone from a 60mm throttle body to 75mm at the same time, so I will not be able o give you guys a before and after the dizzy only. But I should be able to compare the idle and what the curve looks like.
I checked everything under the cap before install, but I don't drive my car much but 2 to 3 times a week. So far I've only driven it twice since I got is back and am waiting to get some dyno time (hopefully next week). Oh I am on AEM EMS just so people know. The car does seem to drive better and that could just mean that my old dizzy was crapping out.
But I will deff. open the cap again and check all the bolts.
I checked everything under the cap before install, but I don't drive my car much but 2 to 3 times a week. So far I've only driven it twice since I got is back and am waiting to get some dyno time (hopefully next week). Oh I am on AEM EMS just so people know. The car does seem to drive better and that could just mean that my old dizzy was crapping out.
But I will deff. open the cap again and check all the bolts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For you AEM EMS users, what coil dwell settings are you using in the Coil Dwell Wizard? </TD></TR></TABLE>
that depends on what ignitor/ign box you are using
that depends on what ignitor/ign box you are using
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">UPDATE: (October 19, 2006):
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal
That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Damn Tony, I like the sleeper engine bay, and the black dizzy. I might paint my MSD black.
btw, it's been a few thousand miles and quite a few track passes, msd is holding up nice
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal
That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
</TD></TR></TABLE>Damn Tony, I like the sleeper engine bay, and the black dizzy. I might paint my MSD black.
btw, it's been a few thousand miles and quite a few track passes, msd is holding up nice
has any one, after putting on this dis. popped a CEL code 8 TDC. ive been reading that the TDC sensor is in the dist. has anyone seen this and solved it or should i start looking at other things. by the way jdm obd-2a b18c
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there anybody in the US who has all 3 of these MSD parts (6305, 8235, 8488) IN STOCK?! Jesus this thing has been on backorder since early summer!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I do!
I do!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by another civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has any one, after putting on this dis. popped a CEL code 8 TDC. ive been reading that the TDC sensor is in the dist. has anyone seen this and solved it or should i start looking at other things. by the way jdm obd-2a b18c</TD></TR></TABLE>
alot of obd2 cars actually had the crank angle sensor driven off the crank by the oil pump. obd1 cars had this in the distributor, most obd2 have this on the crank. Although I have had no issue running this on my car without a CAS on the crank. I think it just depends on the wiring of the harness.
alot of obd2 cars actually had the crank angle sensor driven off the crank by the oil pump. obd1 cars had this in the distributor, most obd2 have this on the crank. Although I have had no issue running this on my car without a CAS on the crank. I think it just depends on the wiring of the harness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
alot of obd2 cars actually had the crank angle sensor driven off the crank by the oil pump. obd1 cars had this in the distributor, most obd2 have this on the crank. Although I have had no issue running this on my car without a CAS on the crank. I think it just depends on the wiring of the harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The sensor on the crank is independant of the normal oem dist. sensors. The one on the crank is to measure crankshaft fluctuation speed, it's only for misfire detection on obd2 cars.
alot of obd2 cars actually had the crank angle sensor driven off the crank by the oil pump. obd1 cars had this in the distributor, most obd2 have this on the crank. Although I have had no issue running this on my car without a CAS on the crank. I think it just depends on the wiring of the harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The sensor on the crank is independant of the normal oem dist. sensors. The one on the crank is to measure crankshaft fluctuation speed, it's only for misfire detection on obd2 cars.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The sensor on the crank is independant of the normal oem dist. sensors. The one on the crank is to measure crankshaft fluctuation speed, it's only for misfire detection on obd2 cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no ****, learned something else new. I know a local guy forgot to hook it up and the car wouldn't turn over, so I suspected it was due to the sensor.
The sensor on the crank is independant of the normal oem dist. sensors. The one on the crank is to measure crankshaft fluctuation speed, it's only for misfire detection on obd2 cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no ****, learned something else new. I know a local guy forgot to hook it up and the car wouldn't turn over, so I suspected it was due to the sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by seen4ever »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no ****, learned something else new. I know a local guy forgot to hook it up and the car wouldn't turn over, so I suspected it was due to the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On the obd2 preludes it is necessary to run, as it uses it as a reference for timing, but the B series doesn't.
no ****, learned something else new. I know a local guy forgot to hook it up and the car wouldn't turn over, so I suspected it was due to the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
On the obd2 preludes it is necessary to run, as it uses it as a reference for timing, but the B series doesn't.



