MSD Pro Billet Distributor
#1
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MSD Pro Billet Distributor
I've noticed that there aren't any pics of the MSD Pro Billet distributor, so I thought I'd share them
So far so good, the MSD dizzy is definintely one of the best upgrades I've done. In comparison to my stock distributor with MSD rotor/cap/coil, this Pro Billet dizzy somehow makes the engine run a lot smoother. It ran just as smooth as my COP setup that I once had (before AEM CDI and MSD DIS-4 crapped out) but without the hassles and reliability issues.
Plus it suits my fully polished engine bay Here are some pics, most of them aren't avaliable anywhere on the net, at least I wasn't able to find any detailed pics:
Other than rewiring my distributor harness, install was very straight forward. This Pro Billet distributor is supposed to work with an OBD-II distributor harness, but my Teg is a '95 so that is why I need to switch the plugs.
I am running an AEM standalone EMS since several members were asking about my engine management system. Everything is working flawlessly so far. Max RPM this engine sees is 9400RPM, power up to date is 383 WHP; 10.5:1 CR, 94 oct pump gas, water injection and NGK #9 Race plugs. No gapping for my spark plugs because they are SD type.
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UPDATE: (October 19, 2006):
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
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Modified by Tony the Tiger at 5:00 PM 10/19/2006
Modified by Tony the Tiger at 5:02 PM 10/19/2006
So far so good, the MSD dizzy is definintely one of the best upgrades I've done. In comparison to my stock distributor with MSD rotor/cap/coil, this Pro Billet dizzy somehow makes the engine run a lot smoother. It ran just as smooth as my COP setup that I once had (before AEM CDI and MSD DIS-4 crapped out) but without the hassles and reliability issues.
Plus it suits my fully polished engine bay Here are some pics, most of them aren't avaliable anywhere on the net, at least I wasn't able to find any detailed pics:
Other than rewiring my distributor harness, install was very straight forward. This Pro Billet distributor is supposed to work with an OBD-II distributor harness, but my Teg is a '95 so that is why I need to switch the plugs.
I am running an AEM standalone EMS since several members were asking about my engine management system. Everything is working flawlessly so far. Max RPM this engine sees is 9400RPM, power up to date is 383 WHP; 10.5:1 CR, 94 oct pump gas, water injection and NGK #9 Race plugs. No gapping for my spark plugs because they are SD type.
.
.
Pics:
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
UPDATE: (October 19, 2006):
So far, I've been running this distributor for 6 months and approximately 7500 miles. I took it apart for inspection and everything looks normal That's good news after seeing what happened to DrVtec99's unit, but it does pay off to retorque and reinstall all the fasteners and bolts before installing the distributor. I also gave a small dab gasket sealant on the distributor-to-head O-ring and it has been leak-free since the day I've installed it. I used to replace my plugs every 3 oil changes, if not, I get a very precise "time-frame" as the engine will soon misfire if I neglect the plugs. But this time, my plugs should have been worn out already yet I have no signs of misfire yet. I am on my 6th oil change and these plugs are still doing their job which is a sign of better spark compared to OEM dizzy with external coil
On the other hand, I went full stealth again for my engine bay. After a recent encounter with a traffic cop and giving me a lot of trouble from all the "shiny stuff", I've decided to hide everything "easily noticeable"... Most people will think my engine is pretty much stock unless it was from a trained set of eyes. Here is what my engine bay looks like now (yes, I know it sucks to paint the MSD dizzy):
.
.
.
.
.
Modified by Tony the Tiger at 5:00 PM 10/19/2006
Modified by Tony the Tiger at 5:02 PM 10/19/2006
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Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thing looks pimp, what the price tag?</TD></TR></TABLE>
would like to know aswell
would like to know aswell
#7
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Re: (mrbsponge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thing looks pimp, what the price tag?</TD></TR></TABLE>
$380 for the complete system -- $260 for the dizzy, $70 for the ignition module and $50 for the coil.
I already have the SS coil, so it was $50 less the amount. It is an absolute steal IMO because the Moroso units are well in that price range already, as well as the OEM Honda units.
Just the fact that I would never burn out the stock ICM and keep replacing the rotors/cap makes me a happy camper. I daily drive the sh*t out of this car and I go through cap and rotors like every friggin oil change...lol Must be those daily redline 5th gear pulls
We'll see how this MSD unit perform long term... From the design, I don't see any wear and tear parts except for the brass rotor blade which seems to be easily replaceable. It is about time that MSD makes a decent unit for us Honda crowd.
$380 for the complete system -- $260 for the dizzy, $70 for the ignition module and $50 for the coil.
I already have the SS coil, so it was $50 less the amount. It is an absolute steal IMO because the Moroso units are well in that price range already, as well as the OEM Honda units.
Just the fact that I would never burn out the stock ICM and keep replacing the rotors/cap makes me a happy camper. I daily drive the sh*t out of this car and I go through cap and rotors like every friggin oil change...lol Must be those daily redline 5th gear pulls
We'll see how this MSD unit perform long term... From the design, I don't see any wear and tear parts except for the brass rotor blade which seems to be easily replaceable. It is about time that MSD makes a decent unit for us Honda crowd.
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Awsome man!
I've been thinking about making this investment for a while now. Mainly because I'm going with Neptune for my new setup, and love to keep the Honda ECU.
However, I've been a little skeptical about MSD's stuff because of all the negative hype on here. I have the Digital 6+, and so far its been great. I'd love to get a reliable distributor to get rid of the whole ignitor bull-****.
How many miles do you have on it?
!!
I've been thinking about making this investment for a while now. Mainly because I'm going with Neptune for my new setup, and love to keep the Honda ECU.
However, I've been a little skeptical about MSD's stuff because of all the negative hype on here. I have the Digital 6+, and so far its been great. I'd love to get a reliable distributor to get rid of the whole ignitor bull-****.
How many miles do you have on it?
!!
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (tony1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Besides removing the ignitor, what does this dist. do different than the oem?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That was my main question, that I forgot to ask...
Also, I gotta see if you can get the cap in black. I hate that red crap.
That was my main question, that I forgot to ask...
Also, I gotta see if you can get the cap in black. I hate that red crap.
#11
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Re: (tony1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Besides removing the ignitor, what does this dist. do different than the oem?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heres what MSD claims:
- CNC-machined billet aluminum housing for precision and strength.
- Dual ball bearing guides for accurate and stable high rpm operation.
- Powerful, multiple sparking external ignition module.
Uses an external coil for increased voltage output.
- Hall effect pickup assemblies retain stock ECU functions and improve accuracy.
- Rynite cap features wide spaced spark plug style terminals and a wire retainer.
Cam sync output will signal aftermarket EFI systems.
Heres what MSD claims:
- CNC-machined billet aluminum housing for precision and strength.
- Dual ball bearing guides for accurate and stable high rpm operation.
- Powerful, multiple sparking external ignition module.
Uses an external coil for increased voltage output.
- Hall effect pickup assemblies retain stock ECU functions and improve accuracy.
- Rynite cap features wide spaced spark plug style terminals and a wire retainer.
Cam sync output will signal aftermarket EFI systems.
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Bryson)
I don't understand how they can use a hall effect sensor on a stock ecu. To my understanding, all hall effect sensors output a square wave output, and the honda computer can't read that right. Tony, any chance you could put a scope on the signal wires when it's running and check the signals? I'm thinking they used the name "hall effect" to sell them, when in reality it's a magnetic sensor just like oem honda ones. Or do this, disconnect the + and - of one sensor wire and hook them up to a volt meter. Turn the dist. by hand and watch the voltage. If it's generates a signal, then it's a mag sensor. So, if that is the case, what's the difference between this dist. and relocating the oem ignitor to a cooler environment and using the oem honda dist?
#13
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Re: (tony1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't understand how they can use a hall effect sensor on a stock ecu. To my understanding, all hall effect sensors output a square wave output, and the honda computer can't read that right. Tony, any chance you could put a scope on the signal wires when it's running and check the signals? I'm thinking they used the name "hall effect" to sell them, when in reality it's a magnetic sensor just like oem honda ones. Or do this, disconnect the + and - of one sensor wire and hook them up to a volt meter. Turn the dist. by hand and watch the voltage. If it's generates a signal, then it's a mag sensor. So, if that is the case, what's the difference between this dist. and relocating the oem ignitor to a cooler environment and using the oem honda dist? </TD></TR></TABLE>
To do that though would be false advertising. I doubt they are just using the name. I wonder if they are using the hall effect sensor, but using something else to convert it to wave the ECU can read...which would make the use of it pointless. ?
To do that though would be false advertising. I doubt they are just using the name. I wonder if they are using the hall effect sensor, but using something else to convert it to wave the ECU can read...which would make the use of it pointless. ?
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (tony1)
He just loves to trash MSD stuff..... which I would have to agree with.
I would love to see the truth behind this though. Maybe MSD is taking a better turn in their technology.
If someone local to me in CT has one come on over..... I have a scope and we can check this thing out.
I would love to see the truth behind this though. Maybe MSD is taking a better turn in their technology.
If someone local to me in CT has one come on over..... I have a scope and we can check this thing out.
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Re: (fknfast)
Tony, you say disconnect the postive & Negative,
I assume you mean the two ignitor wires that run to the oil. but what do you mean test also while running? I have a MSD box inline between my ignitor & coil, so just wondering.
i have one as well and i currently only have one complaint.
where the rubber seal is that goes into the cam, the damn rubber seal is too small or rather MSD cut too deeply into the area, so the rubber isn't raised above the metal area, which caused my oil leak.
from my personal experience, the car runs smooth, but i can't say i've felt a huge difference over my old stock distributor and external coil, i'm just not burning up ignitors, which is a perk.
on my setup i have the new coil as well over my old blaster SS as well.
I assume you mean the two ignitor wires that run to the oil. but what do you mean test also while running? I have a MSD box inline between my ignitor & coil, so just wondering.
i have one as well and i currently only have one complaint.
where the rubber seal is that goes into the cam, the damn rubber seal is too small or rather MSD cut too deeply into the area, so the rubber isn't raised above the metal area, which caused my oil leak.
from my personal experience, the car runs smooth, but i can't say i've felt a huge difference over my old stock distributor and external coil, i'm just not burning up ignitors, which is a perk.
on my setup i have the new coil as well over my old blaster SS as well.
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (seen4ever)
There are 3 sensors inside the dist. From the factory, each sensor has 2 wires. A magnetic sensor generates voltage as a ferrous metal passes by it. You can test the two wires on a voltmeter and see if the sensor generates voltage on it's own. A hall sensor has 3 wires, power, ground, and signal. Whatever voltage you put in on the hall sensor is what voltage you'll get out on the signal wire as a signal is generated. Think of it as a relay, on and off, that's all a hall sensor does. A mag sensor generates more voltage as the metal is closer and/or goes by more frequently. They are entirely different signals. A square wave signal goes from 0 to 5,8,12, or whatever voltage you put in, straight up, straight down. A sine wave goes up and down like a wave, passing 0 volts on the way up and on the way down. So if you test it on a scope you'll get both positive voltage and negative voltage.
#23
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Re: (tony1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Besides removing the ignitor, what does this dist. do different than the oem?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tony, Can we run MSD ignitor with oem distirbutor?
Tony, Can we run MSD ignitor with oem distirbutor?
#24
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Turbocivic94)
I have no idea, but i find it hard to belive that an msd ignitor would be any more reliable than an oem ignitor. lol Your best bet is to run an M&W and remove the ignitor all together.