Vadian

Just assembled my motor and installed my turbo setup this past week and now I'm having problems relating fuel and idling.

I have 6an lines, a GE fuel rail, and a Aeromotive FPR (10an inlets). I also have a Hondata 4b. Fuel pressure (vacuum on, is a 38psi) and I have 75lb injectors and a 3bar GM map sensor
All my wiring and voltage readings from the TPS, Map sensor, and resistor box are fine and the IACV is fine. I am not using a fast idle thermo valve.
I have no vacuum leaks and my vacuum line routing is correct.
No check engine light, but when I jump the service connector, I get code 14 (idle problem)

With all that in mind, I burned a basemap with tables for a GSR turbo and plugged it in. The car would not start. It would turn like it wants to start and is just about to but it seems like it need just that last "uumph."

Well I put back stock injectors and map sensor and removed the resistor box; then I tried a skunk2 chip I had lying around and the car will start, but I have to blip the throttle while tryin to start it. To keep it running I have to keep on the throttle or else it'll just putter for a second or two and die. Took it for a drive around the neighborhood. It backfires every once in awhile and revs are really slow.

Boosted Hybrid is generous enough to make me a base map so I'm gonna try that out next when I get it.

I firmly believe its ungodly rich but it doesn't make any sense to me since my fuel pressure is 38psi and I'm using stock injectors. I know the skunk2 chip is rich, but not this bad. Anyone have any other ideas?

Vadian

Pulled the plugs this morning and 3 of them were black. The fourth one was brand spanking new. I seems that I was not combusting in cylinder #2.

I checked the plug wire; resistance was fine and I have continuity
The distributor is fairly new; only has like 1500miles on it and looks immaculate
Cap and rotor are fresh.
Checked the injector clip wiring; have continuity between the ecu and the clip (both wires)

After all this, I just went ahead and put another injector in. Still the same thing. Took it for a 2mile test drive and the plug is getting black but still looks a little new.
It acts the same, however, as original. I can even pull the plug wire off cylinder 2 and it'll act the same; running on 3 cylinders.

What kills me is that I'm throwing no check engine light codes, even if I unplug a spark plug wire from another cylinder as well...

Anyone have ideas?

Vadian

Oh yeah, the plugs I'm using are BCPR7ES-11. The gap is probably too big but I doubt I'm blowing them out at idle..

MIKES

Sounds to me like incorrect timing. Redo your timing. Take off the distributer cap and make sure that when your piston is at top dead center and your cams are lined up with the slope on the head that your rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder. Also check your valve adjustment out. If they are too tight you will have low compression in that cylinder. Causing it not to combust properly.

Vadian

Oh yeah, forgot to say that. I triple checked timing....cam gears are in the up position which are aligned with the white mark (TDC) on the crank pulley and the distributor rotor is under the #1 plug which isn't 180deg off. Valves are adjusted fine. I've gotta go get another compression testor tho and do that.

Thanks for the help!

intekragsr

may sound dumb, but do you have gas?

Vadian

Of course it isn't dumb...but yeah, just under half a tank. I got it to idle a little with the Hondata, I just increased the IACV duty cycle to about max but its a fluctuating idle and it'll die sometimes, but not frequently. Its definitely a fuel and/or ignition issue. I need a really good basemap

intekragsr

grounds secure on the thermo housing and the tranny? All fuses are good?

lazerus

remove the sparkplug from cyl #2 and attach it to it's plug wire, start or crank the engine and check and see if the spark jumps the gap.

Then, if you have a stethescope, or a screwdriver or something you can put against your ear, rest it on the injector while idling and listen for the solenoid opening/closing.

Brad

Vadian

All grounds and fuses are fine. I put the harness on the motor before I dropped it in (saves loads of trouble).

Thanks for the idea !

Vadian

It sparks, I just think that old injector wasn't opening and closing but I've since then replaced it. The plugs on cylinders 1, 2, and 3 are on the whitish side since my test drives and 4 is straight black. Fouled huh?

Weird thing, also, is that on my stainless steel exhaust manifold by LoveFab, runner #1 is still silver looking while the rest turn goldish. Low temps in cylinder 1 perhaps?

I've got it to stay alive, like I said, by increasing the IACV duty cycle but it fluctuates and every once in a while it'll die. As for the drive...revs are quicker now that I have 4 cylinders but it still studders, has little power, and backfires every once in awhile.

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions !

Vadian

Any more theories, ideas, suggestions guys?

I also have a question concerning resistor box wiring. Is it ok to just tap into the stock injector wires rather than cut them completely and solder them? I did it this way just to be able to return to saturated if need be in the future by just unpluggin them.

The reason being is that I have the victor x manifold with 4 additional bungs for injectors underneath. My 75# underneath and stock up top. I'm only gonna be running 4 injectors for now but future 8. So one set will just be pluggin up the ports for now.

When I run the 75# I'll just clip in all the taps for the resistor box and unplug the stock injectors..

Ok to do?

Vadian

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