Ok, I adjusted the fpr and the same thing was happening, no change in condition, still idles low.

i put the fuel pressure back down to about 38-43psi

adjusted the throttle cable and idle screw...

got the car to idle at 7-800 w/out dropping idle, but the throttle is too tight and it holds the idle high after letting off the gas.. so i'm going to adjust that ( i think it might have been too loose and i tightened it to tight when adjusting it)...

when I got on the gas, hit boost and stopped... after i got the throttle unstuck.. the idle goes from 1-2k up and donw.. up and down.. i have to turn the car off to get it back to normal....

car is wearing out its welcome... quickly...

I'll do the FMU tomorrow night.. i'm too frustrated... and I woke the nieghbor lady up.. she thought there was an earthquake fromt he resonation of my exhaust between the two houses... LOL

 

i know this wont' help but if you get engine management I bet all your problems will go away.

 

hummm can you describe this idle problem a little more? sounds famaliar,when my distributer and coil conked on me the idle was real low till it finally died...

 

I was goning to say jake that i had similar problem after i put my RC TB on. And i needed to adjust the TPS voltage.

do you have an aftermarket TB?

 

I dont' have an aftermarket TB, but how do you adjust the voltage? I had to replace mine and I used another stock one art sent me... that could be a problem also..??

Ok.. car ran fine except a IAC code and limp mode on occasion (bad IAC)

we replaced the IAC, reset the computer and it idled high then we shut it off after a few minutes... then it idled around 600... if you rev the engine, it goes up and falls back down to 600, drops to about 400-500 and wants to stall, then idles back at 600.

i have turned the idle screw out the whole way and in the whole way.. no effect. I adjusted the fields to take out -30% but I don't think it's running rich.

if i unplug a vacume line from the TB (just behind it on firewall side) the car idles up around 1100...

vacume is at -20

while driving the car, depending on if I hit boost or not, it will drop the idle to 1000 and goto 2000 and go up and down up and down till i turn the car off and back on , then it goes back to normal.

car also doesnt fast idle when it's cold, it starts up and idles low wanting to stall.

1. replaced IAC
2. coolant lines hooked up again correctly
3. adjusted Throttle cable... helped some but throttole started sticking, so i'm putting it back down tonight tward factory specs (where it was)
4. replaced a vacume line going from intake manifold to a black emissions box next to block
5. sprayed water around vacume lines and nothing changed
6. adjusted fpr up and down to see if that changed anything.. same
7. changed out plugs for known good plugs
8. drained muffler bearings and changed the turn signal fluid. didn't help

adjusting the TPS votage sounds logical, but how??

 

Are you getting enough fuel to all components?

 

Fuel pressure is around 41-42psi, car runs fine other than the idle problems...

 

sup man sounds like you have a vaccuum leak, check your vaccuums one more time if it seems everything is in order then hit mark up if what i am about to explain to you sounds confusing.

under your tb, on the back side, there is a lil round plate that has two screws (cross tip). (I WILL EDIT THIS IF THE LOCATION ISNT ON THE TB BUT RIGHT NEXT TO IT, I gotta check) You may have to take the TB off if you dont have a really small Screwdriver like i have. (first try to locate this plate) its about 1" or so in diameter. Man i wish i could take a pic of it. Well if you have located it, inside is a plastic like **** THINGY<<< "good coice of words" You have to use a needle nose pliers and turn it clock wise till its tight all the way. This becomes loose over time and starts to leak vaccuum, funny thing is your guage will read normal if the **** is loose or tight. This could be one of your problems or may not, it solved my delemna with eratic up and down idling till I change the Tb and put the wrong manifold on. Just make sure your vaccumms are in the right place and they are zip tide.

Also Raise your idle back up once you have the idle prob fixed, if your idle is still goes up and down then you wont be able to use a timing light and adjust your distributor correctly. Seems like you tried everything else. Try those, like I said hit MArk (TOM COONS) up if this was confusing...

Everything you tried above I had done to my car till I did what I had mentioned above..

Good Luck

 

Damn... try changing your muffler bearings jake. Top off your blinker fluid too... lol...

i dunno dude. im out of ideas! I STILL think it just runs rich at idle.

 

What kind of intake manifold you using?

 

Jake, I have the exact same problem. My problem started after I removed the JRSC. I have codes 14 and 10, IAT and IACV. On startup I have to give it a little gas to get it to start. Once it is warm it will idle on its own at about 700 rpm. Ocassionaly the car will die when coming to a stop(this got slightly worse when i installed the 440s). I'm putting in my new IACV this week, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

thanks for brainstorming guys....


could this affect my car not idleing high at cold startup... it should on a cold morning idle higher till it's warm.... it doesn't... I was going to bypass the IAC if that becomes the problem again.... it never gets that cold out here...

 

could be a timing problem(partly), are you running retarded static timing? My turbo HF cut off on me on time while driving around last weekend. I think i was running to lean at idle and it stalled out.

 

well first check the voltage it should be around .5v at idle and 4.5v wot (i will double check fiqures tonite) On a RC/JG one they replace the factory rivits with bolts so you can losen it up and adjust, but an a factory one tapin it with a screw driver handle works.

But i would check vaccuum line first? Did you have the TB off at all when you were playing with this stuff? you TB might not be sealing if the gasket is bad.

 

stock

 

OK, tese re just stabs in te dark, but here goes...

Is the car throwing any codes now?

It idles REALLY low, acts like it has NO throttle response, and it likes to surge at idle after it's been driven, eh?

Sounds like a TPS voltage issue if there are no codes.
If there are codes, maybe the plugs <IAC, TPS, and MAP have the same plug design> have been interchanged?


[Modified by SiR Kid, 2:20 PM 1/10/2002]