LS VTEC questions
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 510
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What you really need...
You don't need anything from golden eagle...
You can get everything you need from your local Honda/Acura dealer as far as the small parts go. Get a new LS (headgasket you can go 81.5mm with no problem on a stock uncut gasket) get a new intake gasket for whatever head you use. A GSR waterpump IS NOT necessary for 99% of the people out there. (only if your turning more than 9k rpms will it even start to be an issue with cavitation) But whichever pump you decide to use, make sure you use the same timing belt so it will fit properly since the pulleys on the pumps are different. You DO NOT need to change out your oil pump!!!
Take your VTEC head to your local machine shop and have them cut the back corner bolt holes to 14mm as deep as the front holes are so you can use your existing dowels pins, then have them drill and tap your oil hole to a 1/8 npt pipe plug and make sure its in past the deck of the head. (all this is very easy to do and should take less than 15 minutes and cost very little! You can do it yourself if yu have a decent drill press)
Sounds like your getting a great deal on the head, intake, dizzy, valve cover, cams, etc.
You can get a premade oil supply line from any hydraulic hose maker for about $18-$25 depending on the fittings, or make it yourself with parts from Summit Racing (cheapest place to get fittings) The hose is only $14 (SUM-230603) and the 2 fittings for the ends are less than $10 for both! (SUM-220690 x2) Then all you need is the $3 fitting at the head... 6AN/3/8"NPT (SUM-220648) and a $3 fitting at the oil sending unit port... -6AN/1/8"NPT (SUM-220646) plus a 1/8"NPT brass "T" and 1" long 1/8"NPT brass pipe from Home Depot for less than $5 for both. (the pipe will screw into one of the ends of the "T" and the oil psi switch (sending unit) with screw into the other end while the 1/8"NPT/-6AN will screw into the middle and attach to the oil feel hose you make. No need for anybodys "kit" that costs way to much money! This is how so many people do it now and did before the expensive GE kit came out. Less than $50 for EVERYTHING you need to supply oil to the head!
Now, for the rest of the parts...
You can buy the $110+ ARP GSR head studs, or you can find some good used GSR head bolts (just make sure they have not been used more than a couple times already) I have seen them used for about $25 on various forums.
You will also need a new B16/Type R upper radiator hose that you can get from most any auto parts store, or your local Honda/Acura dealer. (this is because the position of the water neck has now changed along and your LS hose will no longer reach it.)
You can get a B16 throttle cable, or make a new bracket to fit your LS cable since they don't have the same mounting point at the intake.
Run 2 wires to the ECU... 1 from the VTEC solenoid, and 1 from the VTEC PSI switch, then a 3rd from the switch (other pin on the switch) to the closest 6mm bolt which is the ground side of the switch.
If you did not get them VTEC spark plug wires with the rest of your VTEC parts, then you will need to get them too! VTEC wires are longer than LS wires and if you dont get the right ones your coil will overheat and die leaving you walking...
Note:
Buy new cam seals, cam bore plug, and distributor O ring to prevent and repair the oil leaks that were most likley already present on your new vtec parts. (PM me if you would like the part numbers of these)
Also, its a good idea to get the upper VTEC timing belt covers to be able to close up the timing belt to avoid any rocks, debris from getting in there and causing the belt to jump time!
I have built many LSVTEC motors with absolutly 0 problems!!! (for those of you that don't have aftermarket pistons, or OEM VTEC pistons, you will soon be replacing your bent valves since the valve reliefs are not big enough on LS pistons for VTEC valves!!!)
Modified by Mochanic at 6:08 PM 9/10/2006
You can get everything you need from your local Honda/Acura dealer as far as the small parts go. Get a new LS (headgasket you can go 81.5mm with no problem on a stock uncut gasket) get a new intake gasket for whatever head you use. A GSR waterpump IS NOT necessary for 99% of the people out there. (only if your turning more than 9k rpms will it even start to be an issue with cavitation) But whichever pump you decide to use, make sure you use the same timing belt so it will fit properly since the pulleys on the pumps are different. You DO NOT need to change out your oil pump!!!
Take your VTEC head to your local machine shop and have them cut the back corner bolt holes to 14mm as deep as the front holes are so you can use your existing dowels pins, then have them drill and tap your oil hole to a 1/8 npt pipe plug and make sure its in past the deck of the head. (all this is very easy to do and should take less than 15 minutes and cost very little! You can do it yourself if yu have a decent drill press)
Sounds like your getting a great deal on the head, intake, dizzy, valve cover, cams, etc.
You can get a premade oil supply line from any hydraulic hose maker for about $18-$25 depending on the fittings, or make it yourself with parts from Summit Racing (cheapest place to get fittings) The hose is only $14 (SUM-230603) and the 2 fittings for the ends are less than $10 for both! (SUM-220690 x2) Then all you need is the $3 fitting at the head... 6AN/3/8"NPT (SUM-220648) and a $3 fitting at the oil sending unit port... -6AN/1/8"NPT (SUM-220646) plus a 1/8"NPT brass "T" and 1" long 1/8"NPT brass pipe from Home Depot for less than $5 for both. (the pipe will screw into one of the ends of the "T" and the oil psi switch (sending unit) with screw into the other end while the 1/8"NPT/-6AN will screw into the middle and attach to the oil feel hose you make. No need for anybodys "kit" that costs way to much money! This is how so many people do it now and did before the expensive GE kit came out. Less than $50 for EVERYTHING you need to supply oil to the head!
Now, for the rest of the parts...
You can buy the $110+ ARP GSR head studs, or you can find some good used GSR head bolts (just make sure they have not been used more than a couple times already) I have seen them used for about $25 on various forums.
You will also need a new B16/Type R upper radiator hose that you can get from most any auto parts store, or your local Honda/Acura dealer. (this is because the position of the water neck has now changed along and your LS hose will no longer reach it.)
You can get a B16 throttle cable, or make a new bracket to fit your LS cable since they don't have the same mounting point at the intake.
Run 2 wires to the ECU... 1 from the VTEC solenoid, and 1 from the VTEC PSI switch, then a 3rd from the switch (other pin on the switch) to the closest 6mm bolt which is the ground side of the switch.
If you did not get them VTEC spark plug wires with the rest of your VTEC parts, then you will need to get them too! VTEC wires are longer than LS wires and if you dont get the right ones your coil will overheat and die leaving you walking...
Note:
Buy new cam seals, cam bore plug, and distributor O ring to prevent and repair the oil leaks that were most likley already present on your new vtec parts. (PM me if you would like the part numbers of these)
Also, its a good idea to get the upper VTEC timing belt covers to be able to close up the timing belt to avoid any rocks, debris from getting in there and causing the belt to jump time!
I have built many LSVTEC motors with absolutly 0 problems!!! (for those of you that don't have aftermarket pistons, or OEM VTEC pistons, you will soon be replacing your bent valves since the valve reliefs are not big enough on LS pistons for VTEC valves!!!)
Modified by Mochanic at 6:08 PM 9/10/2006
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
Re: What you really need... (Mochanic)
Originally Posted by Mochanic
You don't need anything from golden eagle...
You can get everything you need from your local Honda/Acura dealer as far as the small parts go. Get a new LS (headgasket you can go 81.5mm with no problem on a stock uncut gasket) get a new intake gasket for whatever head you use. A GSR waterpump IS NOT necessary for 99% of the people out there. (only if your turning more than 9k rpms will it even start to be an issue with cavitation) But whichever pump you decide to use, make sure you use the same timing belt so it will fit properly since the pulleys on the pumps are different. You DO NOT need to change out your oil pump!!!
Take your VTEC head to your local machine shop and have them cut the back corner bolt holes to 14mm as deep as the front holes are so you can use your existing dowels pins, then have them drill and tap your oil hole to a 1/8 npt pipe plug and make sure its in past the deck of the head. (all this is very easy to do and should take less than 15 minutes and cost very little! You can do it yourself if yu have a decent drill press)
Sounds like your getting a great deal on the head, intake, dizzy, valve cover, cams, etc.
You can get a premade oil supply line from any hydraulic hose maker for about $18-$25 depending on the fittings, or make it yourself with parts from Summit Racing (cheapest place to get fittings) The hose is only $14 (SUM-230603) and the 2 fittings for the ends are less than $10 for both! (SUM-220690 x2) Then all you need is the $3 fitting at the head... 6AN/3/8"NPT (SUM-220648) and a $3 fitting at the oil sending unit port... -6AN/1/8"NPT (SUM-220646) plus a 1/8"NPT brass "T" and 1" long 1/8"NPT brass pipe from Home Depot for less than $5 for both. (the pipe will screw into one of the ends of the "T" and the oil psi switch (sending unit) with screw into the other end while the 1/8"NPT/-6AN will screw into the middle and attach to the oil feel hose you make. No need for anybodys "kit" that costs way to much money! This is how so many people do it now and did before the expensive GE kit came out. Less than $50 for EVERYTHING you need to supply oil to the head!
Now, for the rest of the parts...
You can buy the $110+ ARP GSR head studs, or you can find some good used GSR head bolts (just make sure they have not been used more than a couple times already) I have seen them used for about $25 on various forums.
You will also need a new B16/Type R upper radiator hose that you can get from most any auto parts store, or your local Honda/Acura dealer. (this is because the position of the water neck has now changed along and your LS hose will no longer reach it.)
You can get a B16 throttle cable, or make a new bracket to fit your LS cable since they don't have the same mounting point at the intake.
Run 2 wires to the ECU... 1 from the VTEC solenoid, and 1 from the VTEC PSI switch, then a 3rd from the switch (other pin on the switch) to the closest 6mm bolt which is the ground side of the switch.
If you did not get them VTEC spark plug wires with the rest of your VTEC parts, then you will need to get them too! VTEC wires are longer than LS wires and if you dont get the right ones your coil will overheat and die leaving you walking...
Note:
Buy new cam seals, cam bore plug, and distributor O ring to prevent and repair the oil leaks that were most likley already present on your new vtec parts. (PM me if you would like the part numbers of these)
Also, its a good idea to get the upper VTEC timing belt covers to be able to close up the timing belt to avoid any rocks, debris from getting in there and causing the belt to jump time!
I have built many LSVTEC motors with absolutly 0 problems!!! (for those of you that don't have aftermarket pistons, or OEM VTEC pistons, you will soon be replacing your bent valves since the valve reliefs are not big enough on LS pistons for VTEC valves!!!)
Modified by Mochanic at 6:08 PM 9/10/2006
You can get everything you need from your local Honda/Acura dealer as far as the small parts go. Get a new LS (headgasket you can go 81.5mm with no problem on a stock uncut gasket) get a new intake gasket for whatever head you use. A GSR waterpump IS NOT necessary for 99% of the people out there. (only if your turning more than 9k rpms will it even start to be an issue with cavitation) But whichever pump you decide to use, make sure you use the same timing belt so it will fit properly since the pulleys on the pumps are different. You DO NOT need to change out your oil pump!!!
Take your VTEC head to your local machine shop and have them cut the back corner bolt holes to 14mm as deep as the front holes are so you can use your existing dowels pins, then have them drill and tap your oil hole to a 1/8 npt pipe plug and make sure its in past the deck of the head. (all this is very easy to do and should take less than 15 minutes and cost very little! You can do it yourself if yu have a decent drill press)
Sounds like your getting a great deal on the head, intake, dizzy, valve cover, cams, etc.
You can get a premade oil supply line from any hydraulic hose maker for about $18-$25 depending on the fittings, or make it yourself with parts from Summit Racing (cheapest place to get fittings) The hose is only $14 (SUM-230603) and the 2 fittings for the ends are less than $10 for both! (SUM-220690 x2) Then all you need is the $3 fitting at the head... 6AN/3/8"NPT (SUM-220648) and a $3 fitting at the oil sending unit port... -6AN/1/8"NPT (SUM-220646) plus a 1/8"NPT brass "T" and 1" long 1/8"NPT brass pipe from Home Depot for less than $5 for both. (the pipe will screw into one of the ends of the "T" and the oil psi switch (sending unit) with screw into the other end while the 1/8"NPT/-6AN will screw into the middle and attach to the oil feel hose you make. No need for anybodys "kit" that costs way to much money! This is how so many people do it now and did before the expensive GE kit came out. Less than $50 for EVERYTHING you need to supply oil to the head!
Now, for the rest of the parts...
You can buy the $110+ ARP GSR head studs, or you can find some good used GSR head bolts (just make sure they have not been used more than a couple times already) I have seen them used for about $25 on various forums.
You will also need a new B16/Type R upper radiator hose that you can get from most any auto parts store, or your local Honda/Acura dealer. (this is because the position of the water neck has now changed along and your LS hose will no longer reach it.)
You can get a B16 throttle cable, or make a new bracket to fit your LS cable since they don't have the same mounting point at the intake.
Run 2 wires to the ECU... 1 from the VTEC solenoid, and 1 from the VTEC PSI switch, then a 3rd from the switch (other pin on the switch) to the closest 6mm bolt which is the ground side of the switch.
If you did not get them VTEC spark plug wires with the rest of your VTEC parts, then you will need to get them too! VTEC wires are longer than LS wires and if you dont get the right ones your coil will overheat and die leaving you walking...
Note:
Buy new cam seals, cam bore plug, and distributor O ring to prevent and repair the oil leaks that were most likley already present on your new vtec parts. (PM me if you would like the part numbers of these)
Also, its a good idea to get the upper VTEC timing belt covers to be able to close up the timing belt to avoid any rocks, debris from getting in there and causing the belt to jump time!
I have built many LSVTEC motors with absolutly 0 problems!!! (for those of you that don't have aftermarket pistons, or OEM VTEC pistons, you will soon be replacing your bent valves since the valve reliefs are not big enough on LS pistons for VTEC valves!!!)
Modified by Mochanic at 6:08 PM 9/10/2006
good ****...that answered alottttttttttt of questions
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 510
Likes: 0
Re: What you really need... (shoebox)
No problem...
I just got tired of seeing allot of bad info. Usually its by people that have no idea what they are talking about at all, or its by people that are trying to sell you something you don't need so they can line their pockets.
I wish I had time to do more write ups to help people in these situations, but I barely have time to even read a couple posts anymore...
Anyway, if any of you have anymore questions, PM me or give me a call/email and I will try my best to help.
I just got tired of seeing allot of bad info. Usually its by people that have no idea what they are talking about at all, or its by people that are trying to sell you something you don't need so they can line their pockets.
I wish I had time to do more write ups to help people in these situations, but I barely have time to even read a couple posts anymore...
Anyway, if any of you have anymore questions, PM me or give me a call/email and I will try my best to help.
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