mtownsi

hey whats up im kinda new to the turbo hondas. ive built some allmotor b16 & b18 motors but i want to switch it up this season. im using an ls motor with b16 trans. im shooting for 250whp with 8-10psi boost. heres my list any opinons , pros or cons would be apreciated

stock ls head,freshened up from my machine shop.
dsm450cc injectors with an obd0 resistor box
inline pro cast iron t3 flange exhaust manifold
dsm evo big 16g turbo.
dsm downpipe with o2 bung and dump tube
stealthmode oil line kit
stock ls block, honed,hot tanked & decked if it needs
arp headstuds,main studs,rod bolts
ls rods shot peened
stock ls pistons.
all new honda bearings,rings & gaskets
ebay front mount intercoller
turbo smart mbc
hondata s300
xenocron dyno tune

i think thats it lol. thanks

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Hello and welcome.

The link below is the best place to get opinions and feedback on turbocharged LS engines. You can post your list there, get feedback, and view other setups to get information on to see if you're on par with what you're trying to achieve.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/lst-ls-t-turbo-b18a-b18b-setups-1323059/

welcome, and good luck.

/thread.

blackeg

honestly if i were rebuilding a block i wouldnt put it together with stock pistons. if budget is a main concern then perhaps the ycp b series "vitaras" will be an option. if you have a ls block that is in good condition i honestly wouldnt touch it, it will hold your power goals on a good tune just fine. back in like 04 i ran a boosted 200k miles stock ls at 240whp on romar's dynojet with no reliability issues.

read all the ls turbo thread that theshodan linked to. pm me if you have further questions, i work in ellenville and have been doing this quite a long time...

mtownsi

yea i had this ls block laying around in my shop so i figured id just use it. i know the rings were shot so instead of doing a crazy internal build id just have the block freshend up and put new bearings and rings in it. ive read that stock ls internals can handle 10 lbs without any problems. maybe next season ill get some eagle rods and cp pistons but for this year im going to boost the stock motor.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

10psi, 20psi, all irrelevant. if its under 350whp, the stock components can hold. Other than that.....time will only tell.

blackeg

ok not a bad move. with everything apart id put the arp replacement studs in your oem rods but not worry about shotpeening.. you dont need the main studs, oem ones are fine.

oh ya, a clutch is definitely in order

mtownsi

yea i decided im prolly just going to return the main studs or save them for a later project. i also ordered an exedy stage 2 cerametalc clutch. and yea im going to hold off on getting the rods shot peened. save80 bucks lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

The big 16g should make for a fun street car, very responsive with gobs of low end/midrange torque.

However due to the turbine wheel size and housing size top end power might start falling off quickly.

With a t3 manifold, I'm assuming you're going to using an adapter plate for the turbo? If not of won't come anywhere close to bolting up.

The big 16 flows roughly 550cfm or 38lb/min so you can reach your goal easily but it will take a lot of pressure, more than 10 psi. Keep in mind that a certain psi doesn't equal a certain power level, too ,many variables. Today's motors will make roughly 8-11hp per psi of boost, with a lot of factors to consider

I would strongly recommend porting the turbo, the turbine housing has a step lip inside of it that causes a rough transition from manifold to turbo. Also take a flapper wheel a smooth the inside of the turbine housing this will help efficiency a bit and also raise the housings size by a tiny tiny bit.

Also port the wastegate flapper, they are very small and known to creep, the flapper is pretty big, so you can open up the hole a good amount, just remember to leave enough material for the flapper to seat properly when closed. Also port the compressor outlet... they too are small (especially when you put the gasket on the outlet) use the gasket as a guide and mark how much material you can remove, I normally use some bright colored spray paint for visibility.

You can do all of these things with a dremel tool with a few carbide cutters, grinding stones, standing drums and flapper wheels... you might be looking at 30 bucks for these attachments for the dremel (I found a kit at Lowes for 5 bucks a piece for a 50 piece kit, each broken down into cases like cuttinf, polishing,etc, exact same thing as dremel down to the case but 1/3 as expensive) just take your time and try not to gouge out the metal as it will be a bitch to smooth out

I just got done for the most part with porting a Greddy turbo manifold the same,e way and it came out flawless, just takes a few hours.

There's a very detailed video on YouTube of a guy porting a big 16g, I'll dig it up when I get on my pc

mtownsi

im buying the turbo from my friend so all the porting was already done. i bought an adapter plate off ebay to be able to bolt to a t3 style flange.

will i need to run a catchcan?? any specific ones recomeded??

mtownsi

i have another question that i cant seem to find the answer to. for b18b1 rod bolts are they 8mm or 9mm. i ordered all my arp bolts and studs and ordered 8mm rod bolts but they look smaller than thre stock bolts. any help greatly appreciated lol

blackeg

B20/ls and single cams use the 8mm. After installing the new rod studs, don't forget to torque down and loosen them 3 times then check to make sure it doesn't oblong the big end of the rod. I've used the arp replacement studs twice, one of the times the rod needed to be honed true again.

mtownsi

ok thanks dude. yea im having the guy at the machine install the bolts and check them.

mtownsi

i recently just picked up a stock ls trans. i was originally going to use my b16 trans for my boost setup. wich trans would be better?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Ls is good for a street car, longer gears means lower cruising rpm = better mpg

Oh and stealth mode has shut down, so if you don't already have the oil line kit... well its too late.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Don't do that. LS is good for MPG but terrible for acceleration. Keep your B16 if using a VTEC head. Keep your LS trans for the LS-T engine.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

With enough torque, gearing for a street car doesn't really matter. LS with a b16 final is a good way to go as well.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Like he's going to go through the trouble to do all that..

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

True... but it us a cheaper alternative than finding a b16 trans or regearing an ls

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not really. (this time i gotcha ) Around here B16 transmissions are quite common enough to purchase without molesting them.

DirtyDA9

That manifold and dsm turbo will NEVER work.

The turbo is a v-trim t04b which is nothing lkke a t3/t4. Do some more research.

DirtyDA9

They make larger flappers for them. I would do an ewg on the o2 housing, remove the flapper and port the **** out of it. Thats how I had my 16g and 20g setup on my dsm. Except I used a BEP turbine housing on the 16g so I didnt really have to do anything with it.

mtownsi

yea im going to take the case off this week at work and inspect everything. if any gears are damaged ill prolly look into some gsr gears.

CDecker0218