specie

I've read that the stock pistons is the weakest link, so I bought a set of 81.5mm Wiseco pistons. Stock sleeves are stronger than what I need, so I'm sticking with that. The question is how much power can stock LS rods handle? I'm going with either the VAFC hack or Uberchip on dsm 450cc injectors with a conservative tune. I usually don't push the car hard, except when I'm at the track (about once every three months). Looking to get 350whp max....will be happy with around 285whp though.

I can get the eagle rods for about $300 (ebay) but I have an extra block laying around. I wouldn't have even considered the rods if I hadn't purchased the Wiseco pistons, since the block was bought for $200. I could've just blown the block and replace it for less than the forged pistons/rods.

Is it worth it to get the Eagle rods, economically-speaking? Me poor student. Thanks.

Suprdave

Worth it, especially if your getting aftermarket pistons...it's gonna cost a grip to machine the stock rods to take a floating pic, and then your going to need ARP bolts...might as well get the eagles.

Rod threw block = more than $300

Suprdave

woopdedoo

You don't need to do any machine work to the rods install aftermarket pistons. I ran JEs on stock LS rods no problem. No machine work. Well, let me clarify that, you'll need to take your old rods and pistons to a machine shop to have the pins pressed out and have the new pistons and pins installed. But no modifications to the rods are necessary. If you aren't going to run in excess of 300HP or spin to 9K go for it. The stock rods aren't a floating (bushed small end) design so you just need to heat the snot out of the small end so it expands enough to install the wristpin into the rod/piston.

specie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beeyutch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need to do any machine work to the rods install aftermarket pistons. I ran JEs on stock LS rods no problem. No machine work. Well, let me clarify that, you'll need to take your old rods and pistons to a machine shop to have the pins pressed out and have the new pistons and pins installed. But no modifications to the rods are necessary. If you aren't going to run in excess of 300HP or spin to 9K go for it. The stock rods aren't a floating (bushed small end) design so you just need to heat the snot out of the small end so it expands enough to install the wristpin into the rod/piston.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, this is what I've heard before, so that's why I'm considering to stay with stock rods. I'm not reving past 7,200rpm, so I don't think I'll need ARP rod bolts either. ( I was so scared of mis-shifts at 8800rpm in my ls/vtec, which is sold now.)

specie

So it'll hold up to 300whp on a daily basis?

romeo619romeo

get crower atleast eagles are not so good for boost IMO but if you wanna get away with the LS rods i say shot pinned atleast and headgasket i was running 12 psi on my stock d16y8 with stock compression witch is 9.6 if im not mistaken

specie

I've heard that shot peening does not increase the strength of the ls rods. Crower is just too much money for a low budget buildup. I'm will be using the stock headgasket and compression is at 9.2:1. Thanks.

darkracer

ls rods and pistons held 18 psi in my friends d16z6 with a t304 turbo. so up to you if you want to use them, but i'm convinced. just my .02. peace.

specie

He's using aftermarket pistons, right? That should yield at least 285whp even with the smallest T3/T4b, right?

Mr. Softee

i've heard the ls ringlands are a weakpoint.