When runnin the LS crank inside of a vtec block what are the correct build procedures. I know that the LS crank has a longer stroke which ultimately means longer/taller rods. How does that workout inside of a block like the GSR or for that matter even a B16?? I've heard something about heating the oil squirters up and bend'em back to provide the correct clearance. I've also heard of bend'em and plugging'em for more oil pressure. Did you guys use either one of these methods in your build? Also wouldn't you need custom rods to support the longer stroke?

 

The B16 deck height is less than b18 and b20. I dont think you are going to be able to fit the 137mm rod in the b16 block with ls crank, the b18's have longer rods and bigger stroke than b16, along with a "taller" block to fit the rotating assembly in..

But if you have no other choice, then you could use b16 (134mm) rod, with hayabusa bike pistons - they are much "shorter" than the b series pistons and will fit within the block height and are also 81mm in diameter.

I know of a few people who used this type of geometry with boost - Very good torque characteristics, but you will have to be very wise on the rev limit..
Ls crank in b16 block would drastically reduce r/s ratio - lower than the ls/crvtec's 1.54:1

With regards to the oil squirters... not tooo sure what needs to be done exactly..
But I think with the new rod angle with Ls crank, it might be in the way, not tooo sure - may even have the notch the bottom of the block..?

 

Thanx...Anyone else...Need more info on this build...I've just heard from one too many sources that the proper way to perform LS/VTEC is to actually run the LS crank inside the VTEC block...in terms of being conservative on the rev limit...I thought this was the reason to put the LS crank inside the VTEC block to take advantage of not only the torque but also the oil squirters or if you plug them then you take advantage of the extra much needed oil pressure to keep that baby healthy at high rpm...?

 

yea thats in a b18c blizock

 

Thanx fellas...I'd really like to run this setup in the b16 block I have...Anybody else with knowledge on this particular setup?

 

is it a b16a block or b16b block the b16b's are the same deck height as the other b blocks the a's are the shorter ones

 

Come to find out I don't even have the b16 block anymore. I still have a GSR block. Does anyone know what it'll take to run the LS crank in that block?

 

"But if you have no other choice, then you could use b16 (134mm) rod, with hayabusa bike pistons - they are much "shorter" than the b series pistons and will fit within the block height and are also 81mm in diameter."


very interesting, do you know about what the average rev limit is for that setup? and arent the hayabusa pistons forged too?

to answer the op's question i remember quite awile ago there where these special pistons called "tech43" that a member on the board got JE or someone to make that allowed basically LS internals in a b16 block

 

Ya it will take LS rods and your good.

 

the LS crank will fit into the B16B and B18 series blocks, however, especially if you're using forged pistons, it is recommend to block off the oil squirters. On some piston skirt designs, they will knock against the squirters even if bent. The squirters are mainly used to protect cast pistons. "Revving" is limited on the balancing of the motor. there are plenty of LS/VTEC and B20/VTEC that rev to 9000rpms, with no ill-effects as long as the assembly is properly balanced by a machine shop.

 

When you say the B18 block are you referring to the B18c1 because I have a GSR block. Secondly is that guy right ^ when he says that all I need is LS rods in the GSR block...I thought that the GSR block has a shorter deck height...wouldn't that make it virtually impossible to run longer rods and a bigger crank? Third if you block off the oil squirters in a GSR block which means that they're not going to be cooling the pistons and if revving to 9,000 rpms is dependent on the balancing of the motor done by the machine shop. Then basically there's no point rather advantage of running the LS crank in the GSR block or is it to take advantage of the GSR's r/s ratio when using the LS crank inside that block????

 

What is your application for? track, drag, autox, what? The squirters are more necessary for tracking or road racing. Autox and drag are short times and aren't as dependent on oil for cooling purposes.

I had once thought about putting in a larger crank in a B16a for more torque. I would guess that a custom rod would have to be made or a weird piston.

 

My application is for the street, daily driver and I'd like to be able to road course the car every once and a blue...But more so this is the motor I want for daily driver...Like as if I brought an Si or GSR or Type R for every day use...So I guess longevity is the word...Just one of those motors with a little more under the hood. I'd love to catch some of those Si GSR Type R guys and walk'em...So maybe even a sleeper

 

I am referring to both the B18C1,C4,C5, as well as B18A,B and B20 block

I hope I'm right, because I am currently driving a car with this elaborate modification. ;-) What I am referring to is that you need to run LS CRANK and LS Rods together (match the crank and rods from the block). Refer to question 1. The deck Height of the B18C1 and B18B1 (LS) and B20 (CR-V) are the same, only the B16A has a different deck height.
My NA build with this setup is here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=36812684

Again, I think you're missing what I stated in my last post. The oil squirters are typically needed in OEM CAST type pistons in which they are designed to need the additional cooling of oil from the squirters. JE, Arias, Wiseco, etc.. companies that make forged components don't have the need of the oil squirters. Not to mention, using an LS/CR-V crank rods w/ the pistons still may cause interference issues with the oil squirters' clearance in the block. Though they may be able to be "bent" out of the way, the distance it may be out of the way still may not account for the vibration and clearance that is needed when the assembly is rotating at higher speeds.

It's like LS/VTEC without the worry of an LS VTEC "kit", to get the benefit of additional torque of the B18B, w/ the cylinder flow of the VTEC headStop w/ the rod stroke ratio stuff. For your purposes, this is not a factor. The additional advantage is TORQUE because of the longer stroke of the engine. even though you may not be bored to 84mm, there is still a stroke advantage in which you may not NEED to rev to 9000rpms. What I am pointing out is that despite the calcuated rod/stroke ratio as being "bad", if the engine is balanced correctly at a machine shop, you can still "rev" the engine to 9000rpms. Hell, even if its 8500rpms, its best to still have the rotating assembly balanced before installation. One can "REV" to 9000 all they want, but depending upon the purpose of the car, and components used, 9 times out of 10, with the longer stroke and larger displacement, it isn't necessary.

Hope this helps.