Learning the turbo basics... need an asnwer
i'm learning the turbo basics i pretty much know what i'm going to be buying and all but to my real question is.... to trick the ECU that there's no boost going i've heard so much about the missing link... is there an alternative for this ? can the ecu be reprogrammed to "SEE" boost ? I apologize for my ignorance ! Thank you in advance
Hey, we all have to start somewhere, right? As for the ECU "seeing" boost, yes it can be programmed to do so, to answer your question simply. There are many different tuning programs out there that allow you to do this (it is something that must be done by a competent tuner, though). The missing link that you speak of is basically a check valve that doesnt allow the engine to see boost, and is usually used in conjunction with an FMU. We will all tell you to shy from that path, as an FMU is guess-work at best, a band-aid, and will most likely lead to engine failure. Please spend the extra money for a good tune, this board is a perfect place to find a good tuner in your area and research feedback. What is your setup and goals?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xxxmikenicexxx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, we all have to start somewhere, right? As for the ECU "seeing" boost, yes it can be programmed to do so, to answer your question simply. There are many different tuning programs out there that allow you to do this (it is something that must be done by a competent tuner, though). The missing link that you speak of is basically a check valve that doesnt allow the engine to see boost, and is usually used in conjunction with an FMU. We will all tell you to shy from that path, as an FMU is guess-work at best, a band-aid, and will most likely lead to engine failure. Please spend the extra money for a good tune, this board is a perfect place to find a good tuner in your area and research feedback. What is your setup and goals? </TD></TR></TABLE> I'm down here florida , coral springs ... close to boca raton / ft lauderdate. Anyways. my goal is a b16 boosted to about 300/350 whp. I have been thinking about a t3/t4 57 trim. 450cc injector should do the job or they would do 360 at the crank ? i also will be upgrading my fuel pump to a walbro. as for engine managment i have NO clue how to do it or where to begin with. I can learn thing quickly. I have never installed a turbo on a car before but i cant i can manage it... but as far as tunning go this is the part that i dont really understand much... i've heard that 13 psi should be fine with stock internals as long as u got a good tune... yes i also remembered about the step colder spark plugs + .28/.30 gap .... what else am i missing ?
Try searching the archives for HONDATA , CROME, and UBERDATA. Those are the most commonly used tuning programs out there. Better yet, search the FI FAQs and you should find plenty of information regarding turbos and tuning.
What car are you doing this in, I'm going to guess the 99-00 Si?
First things first, you will need to find out what OBD your car is. 88-91 is OBD0 (no oxygen sensors), 92-95 is OBD1 (1 oxygen sensor), and 96-00 is OBD2 (2 oxygen sensors).
OBD2 is useless when it comes to tuning. The ECU is a pain in the *** to chip, and the chip can only be used once. Not to mention it's expensive. You will probably need to convert over to OBD1 with the single oxygen sensor. My P28 chipped with crome and conversion harness from OBD2 to OBD1 cost me $225, other ECUs (P28, P07, etc) will run similar prices depending on who you buy from etc.
Crome/Uberdata are free software programs that are chipped onto the ECU. This allows you to program AFRs, Timing, etc using a laptop to tune with.
Hondata/Neptune are payed for versions that do the same thing as above. Often times the paid programs come with more options than the free, but that's not always the case.
AEM EMS/Flash/etc are all standalone units. Extremely expensive and mostly for high-powered builds.
There's a tuning thread stickied at the top of this forum, look through that and find your local tuners. Get in contact with a few of them, see what prices fit you best. If your car is daily driven, I'd suggest getting it street and dyno tuned. This may cost more money, but is absolutely worth it in the end.
Communicate with your tuner choice, make sure everything is up to par on the car, and get it tuned.
First things first, you will need to find out what OBD your car is. 88-91 is OBD0 (no oxygen sensors), 92-95 is OBD1 (1 oxygen sensor), and 96-00 is OBD2 (2 oxygen sensors).
OBD2 is useless when it comes to tuning. The ECU is a pain in the *** to chip, and the chip can only be used once. Not to mention it's expensive. You will probably need to convert over to OBD1 with the single oxygen sensor. My P28 chipped with crome and conversion harness from OBD2 to OBD1 cost me $225, other ECUs (P28, P07, etc) will run similar prices depending on who you buy from etc.
Crome/Uberdata are free software programs that are chipped onto the ECU. This allows you to program AFRs, Timing, etc using a laptop to tune with.
Hondata/Neptune are payed for versions that do the same thing as above. Often times the paid programs come with more options than the free, but that's not always the case.
AEM EMS/Flash/etc are all standalone units. Extremely expensive and mostly for high-powered builds.
There's a tuning thread stickied at the top of this forum, look through that and find your local tuners. Get in contact with a few of them, see what prices fit you best. If your car is daily driven, I'd suggest getting it street and dyno tuned. This may cost more money, but is absolutely worth it in the end.
Communicate with your tuner choice, make sure everything is up to par on the car, and get it tuned.
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