SiR99

I see that alota the oil line kits are like 85-100 bucks, and that seems kinda stupid to me. I know that I can get the oil return line from any hardware store, but what are you guys using for the oil inlet? Im probably going to buy the T where the inlet line gets its oil from, but is there anything i can use for the actual inlet line without buying it from one of those turbo websites?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

youre a cheap ************ arent ya?

Got_soy

vacume hose, works great

Got_soy

out of all the places, thats the one were it helps to spend some money on

I3ooS710

For your house.

SM00TH976

your oil pressure lines will see 80+ psi of pressure, and your turbo will die a quick death if anything happens to the oil supply.

is it really worth it just to save $75? i don't know what kind of turbo you have, but i don't want to have to have mine rebuilt anytime soon.

nerdsports

a feed line does not cost $75+.

theyre approximately $45shipped for the feed line, including the fittings you'll need.

http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com

Finland

simple answer = no

vegaskurt

Scroll down to Xenocron's post.

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...329.0

Everything for about $46.

thermal

Dont do it man. Better safe than sorry. I dont think HomeDepot has anything that can withstand that much temp and pressure anyway.... Unless you get some solid lines out brass and compression fittings...

scartail

copper lines and fittings.

coneheadsracing

Agreed with the home depot thing... but you can use brake line. My buddy is, no issues. Just watch the vibration, thats what i'd be worried about.

I bout my 3an line and speed fittings from summit racing. No need to really worry about vibration there.

Return line, i agree you can use other hose.... i do that, and have no issues with mine, but to each there own.

VTteg

iTrader: (1)

Mcmaster

I've got a friend who is hooking me up at work. I told him the part numbers i needed and he is ordering them for me.

SiR99

Thanks for the info guys, i wasnt trying to cheap out, i just thought that since you could make a return line why not make a inlet with home depot products, i also didnt know they were under 50 bucks. Ill buy the inlet for sure and just make the return

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wantboost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youre a cheap ************ arent ya?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMFAO

mec. pedri

iTrader: (1)

cheap bastard!!!

Blaze45

I was going to make a post telling you that it would be worth the $ to buy the quality stainless steel braided lines, but I think that you should go ahead and buy some cheap parts like a wastegate and fuel management and figure this out for yourself. Im not trying to be a jerk, but I too was once where you were at. Looking to go as cheap as possible. Let me just tell you this, it isnt worth the $ you will save buyin cheap parts when something goes south and toasts your setup. A quote I found here on HT and definetly true,


“The bitterness of poor quality will leave bad taste in mouth long after the sweetness of lower price is forgotten.” -Unknown....


Good Luck with your seutp man

Blaze

turbosnatch

imo the better way is golden eagle sandwich kit, but thats the expensive way, but after seeing all the problems me and friends have had with the tee's i would never go back. and takes less time to install.

vegaskurt

I've seen some people use the perma-cool sandwich adapter and those things are cheap. That will probably be the way I go.

a1320addict

iTrader: (1)

I'm personally using a GE sandwich plate and finally, after a year, have got it to stop leaking.

I installed Stan's "firewall-relocation" kit last night, and that was a very well-put-together, simple, no-fault setup. I believe my friend got the kit for $30 shipped. Then all you need is a feed-line.

abnaasefmb

http://www.actionvillage.com/i...hoses

I used to play a lot of paintball before I decided the 50 bucks a case of paint I was spending would be better spent working on cars again. These things worked at holding 1000psi of air I figured it would work fine for 80psi. I wasn’t sure it would stand up to the high temps or the petroleum products. It has been a while now with no problems, I even used a few of the 1/8th quick disconnects so to pull the engine I just unhook them instead of having to unscrew the lines.

They also work great for vacuum and boost lines.

here is the Q-disconnects
http://www.actionvillage.com/i...krFs5

SiR99

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was going to make a post telling you that it would be worth the $ to buy the quality stainless steel braided lines, but I think that you should go ahead and buy some cheap parts like a wastegate and fuel management and figure this out for yourself. Im not trying to be a jerk, but I too was once where you were at. Looking to go as cheap as possible. Let me just tell you this, it isnt worth the $ you will save buyin cheap parts when something goes south and toasts your setup. A quote I found here on HT and definetly true,


“The bitterness of poor quality will leave bad taste in mouth long after the sweetness of lower price is forgotten.” -Unknown....


Good Luck with your seutp man

Blaze </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just lookin for some advice..., im planning on buying an Ebay intercooler and bov, im going to buy a log manifold, and weld together my own 3" down pipe and exhaust. Im also going to weld together my own 2.5" charge pipes. Im going to chip my p28 with crome, DSM 450 injectors, Walbo 255 pump, all necessary oil lines and im going to get it professionally tuned.

Iv heard that ebay intercoolers and bov's are okay as long as you use them for around 300whp, im not sure about this so if its wrong information someone please correct it. Im going to weld together my own charge pipes and downpipe so its not going to be some cheap ssac stuff. Im going to get it tuned professionally with crome.

I have the essential things dont I? Im going to get it professionally tuned, and Im going to be using a manifold/downpipe thats quality stuff. Dont you think ill be alright? .....just lookin to see what some people with experience think. thanks

Anyone hear of bad things about DIY log kits?

also, iv never heard of the sandwhich fitting. Is it that much better then the T?

Blaze45

Im using stan's (flamenco-t from fast-turbo.com) oil line setup. It was on the higher side of the price range, but its never leaked. I personally would look for a JRC intercooler. They are quite cheap (I dont know what the ebay ones go for) and he has been around for a while and wont leave you high n dry if something goes wrong (sometimes that happends on ebay). You can also pick up a DSM 1st gen no bling bov for less then $50. Mine seems to be holding till about 17psi then its starts bleeding off boost cause I need to crush it. Im more of a function over form guy so thats why I got the DSM bov. It doesnt make any high pitch screech or anything, just a nice whoosh of air, just doing its job. No spring to adjust or anything. I havent herd much on the ebay BOVs and I dont know what they go for compared to the DSM ones. Just a little insight on welding your own stuff up, use good metal for your EXH. cause I didnt and now its kicking me in the *****. Its all cracking @ 1600+ degrees of EGT. My dumptube has cracked 4 times, first 2 times mig'd 3rd time was with thicker gauge material and tig 4th was with better penetration, tig and a brace on the same material and it still cracked again. The cars for sale so Im goting to let the next owner deal with that. As for the DIY logs, I havent read much on them, but my shorty log from Lovefab cracked and they warrentied it. I was very pleased.

Blaze

Dunc

Or you could just make your own out of stainless line and fittings (<U>the proper way</U>) for like $35 and call it a day.

HickamHatch

http://www.turbo-supply.com has good lines and fittings...