SoyRacer

Okay...... I Recently Converted Our SOHC V-Tec All Wheel Drive Wagon From Turbo To Supercharger (Jackson Racing). At First We Were Driving It Easy Due To Being A Second Hand Unit. My Wife Started To "Push It" A Little And Told Me That She Was Starting To Get A Check Engine Light Every Once In A While. The Car Had Easily Handled A Turbo At 5-6 psi So I Kinda Knew That It Had To Be A Sensor Issue.
The ECU Code Was "1" So I Welded In A Second O2 Sensor Further Down Stream (Just In Front Of The Cat) And Hooked Up A Second Air Fuel Ratio Meter. They Both Read Identical So I Knew That The O2 Sensor Was Not To Blame. I Hooked Up A Vacume Pump With A Guage And Read The Resistance At The MAP Sensor, It Was Perfectly Within Specs. Fuel Pressure Was Perfect And The FMU Was Working Fine. I Took It Out For A Thorough Thrashing And Noticed That Under Hard Acceleration It Would Run Lean, Sputter And As Soon As The Check Engine Light Came On It Would Go Full Rich And Run Great.
Long Story Short Part Starts Here- Why Would A MAP Sensor Still Be Hooked Up In A Factory Fashion On A Supercharger Install (I Thought To Myself)? At Full Throttle The Supercharger Is Flowing So Much Air Throught The S-Pipe That The MAP Sensor "Always Has Vacume". This Is Not Correct.
I Capped Off The O.E. MAP Sensor Vacume Fitting And Instead Hooked Up The Map Sensor To The Pressure Fed Side Of The Intake Manifold Plenum. I Treated It Just As I Would A Budget Turbo Set-Up And Used A Series Of Check Valves To Bleed Off The Boost To The MAP Sensor. Guess What !??! .... Lean Running Condition Cured !! I Later Ran The Cam Timing Just 1 deg. Over And Set The Timing. The Torque Has Never Been Better And The A/F Ratio Is Pretty Much Always At Stoich Or Rich. Which To Me Is Just Fine.

Am I The Only One That Has Come Across This With A JRSC ??

Also As A Side Note- I Intended To Use A Zdyne ECU Conversion To Activate The V-Tec As Well As Understanding The Boost From A Forced Induction System. The Problem Is That Zdyne Cannot Do Any Of These Conversions Without Removing The Drivers For The Automatic Transmission. So That Was Ruled Out.

Any Feedback Is Welcome.

You Can See Pics Of The Wagon Here- https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=734181

bxsi

Was the kit purchased used? Did you install the Jr relay trick with the kit at first?

Silverbeast

Holy Capital Letters All Over The Place Batman

SoyRacer

Hello bxsi

Yes, The System Was Purchased Used But To My Knowledge The SOHC JRSC Kit Does Not Have A Relay.
Is There A Kit Of Some Form Available And If So.... What Does It Do?

Sonny

Yes, it does have a relay. It taps into the IAT signal going to the ECU. There is a pressure switch that mounts on the intake manifold. Once boost is present, the switch activates the relay and the ECU then sees the coldest temp possible. JR calls it the "IAT enrichment relay".

Sonny

SoyRacer

Thank You Sonny

So With This IAT System In Place Would I Then Return My MAP Sensor Hose Back To The O.E. Fitting On The Throttle Body?

Another Question- In Closed Loop Mode (Which Is What The Computer Goes Into When The IAT Is Tricked Into Cold Run Mode) The Computer Does Not Allow Full Ignition Advance. Isn't This A Limiting Factor For Performance?

keebler65

yes you would want to return it to the stock location on the throttle body before the blower. if you need the relay and pressure sensor let me know, as i have both sitting around. they have never been used.

Sonny

In your situation, both solutions are hacks...so you're rather limited in your options.

Leaving the MAP sensor hooked up to the intake manifold is the right way to go because it will virtually eliminate tip-in detonation. However, the MAP sensor cannot see boost or the ECU will throw a code. Running without the IAT relay can make your setup run dangerously lean.

Using JR's method will keep you from running lean, but you will get tip-in detonation.

I would probably run both hacks if it's all you've got to work with.

Sonny

exciv2000

in place of the IAT relay, it's suggested to go with the JR Map controller if they have one that is fitting for your ECU (i.e. the wires/years/engine code match up). This will allow the map sensor to see boost but will not throw a code since it has some electronics that filter out the boost signal but still allow the enrichment of fuel. This will allow you to return the map sensor to it's default location with a block-off plate and a vacuum/boost hose from the intake manifold.

The problem with the IAT sensor is that it does not sense boost until approx. 2 PSI, and at that point, tip-in detonation is not being properly avoided. The JR map controller alleviates this mess and is a cleaner install.

Also, just to clear a misconception that was stated in this threat, WOT = open loop mode, <WOT = closed loop mode.

bxsi

oops sorry for the late response soyracer, looks like you found your answer though. Sonny and excivic are some of the jr guru's on this board and i couldnt have said it better. Best bet purchase a hondata s200 w boost option and leave the map sensor where it is. If not purchase the jr relay trick from keebler and run it like the way jackson racing intended

InfamousGSR

I have the relay if you want to buy it. Its from a GSR kit but dunno if it makes a difference.

redsidriver

if u get the hondata s200 you will have to relocate the map sensor to the manifold.

Joseph Davis

I'd avoid any of the JRSC crap solutions to fuel and ignition control. Completely. They are not a solution, they are a band-aid to limp your engine a few thousanbd miles down the road so that when it finally blows you think it's something else other than they bent you over and fucked you with an incomplete product.

http://www.turboedit.org has the freeware Zdyne-equivalent, no need for a stupid $$$ OBD1 conversion, and you can run an RPM activated switch to control your VTEC. Speed PHreak polluted pgmfi.org with D16Z6, B16, GSR, and ITR basemaps for the OBD0 PM6, PS9 and PR4 ECUs, so good basemaps to start from are available.

bxsi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redsidriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u get the hondata s200 you will have to relocate the map sensor to the manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah thats where it is now, thats why i said leave the map sensor where it is. sorry if i confused you soyracer.

redsidriver

u know i actually got rid of the iat relay from jackson racing and just installed a new iat sensor to the back of the manifold where the type r sensor goes. i havent noticed any change in performance and i have no check engine light. ive had that fro about 3 weeks