Running925

Hey guys, i'm finally gonna put my car back together after a couple year break playing with my jeep. I started playing with my civic back in 2002 after the first big Fast & Furious movie and thought i was cool, lol.

Friends and I had fun thinking we were fast for a while and then 2 years after that i swaped out my d16/auto/Nitrous for a LS/Manual Trans & Boost. I blew up a lot of crap learning durring that time period but had a very strong 12 sec car. I think thats when i had the most fun with the car.

Anyways, a couple years ago I aquired "Beast" motor from Mr. Gasket. It consisted of a Dart Block, with poorly assembled internals, as well as a Dart CNC port & polished head with some horribly cut cams. It was setup with I-beam scat rods & domed pistons for NA use. I swapped out the pistons & rods with some Eagle H-Beams & CP 9:1's and had some fun with the motor for a little while but it just wasn't right. The alignbore was off and i had failures.

This brings us to present day. I'm 27 years old. I've got some help from a well known muscle car engine builder in my area. I've been spending a lot of time learning different aspects of motors that i never really thought about before. He is going to help me with my assembly. He has a lot of measureing instruments beyond the digital caliper & plastigauge that i've used in the past. I hope to get this thing together properly and enjoy the summer with the car. It's going to be a weekend warrior that might come out to play in the evenings after work. Pump gas only, it's staying as a street car. I do have a set of slicks for the car for when it goes to play at the drag strip but it's focus is fun fast street warrior.

I encourage your constructive critisizm but please leave your trash talk at the door. I'm more interested in the learning experience than having the fastest thing on the plannet.

List of parts:

BLOCK:
Dart Closed Deck b20 (freshly honed)
Eagle CrankShaft (freshly cut / ballanced & polished)
CP 84.5mm pistons 9.1-9.2 CR
Eagle h-beam rods (just had new wristpin bushings installed)

HEAD:
Dart Head, CNC port & polished
Unknown Double valve springs & Ti retainers (came with dart motor origionally)
GSR cams (for now, open to suggestions here)

TURBO:
Garrett t3/t4 .72trim .82ar (pretty sure thats how you write that?)
Ebay large intercooler (i forgot exact dimensions, it's been a few years)
Tial BOV
Tial 35mm Wastegate
2.5inch turbo plumbing (by me)
3inch custom made mandrel exhaust with magnaflow straight throgh (by me)
Custom home made top mount manifold (by me)


The last time i tuned this car, i was on a mustang dyno and made 460whp on pump gas and ran out of fuel with my rc750's. I just sold my injectors to a buddy last week and plan to order a set of precision 1000's.

I'm the kinda guy that takes a million photo's & video's so i'll be sure to update this thread often with plenty of photo's and stats.

MY GOAL: to run a 10sec pass in the 1/4. I don't care if it's a 10.99, it would be nice to see a 10 up on that board!

The block has been notched to assure .060 clearance between the rods and bottom of the cylinder walls. It is back from the machine shop and sitting on a stand in my basement ready for the final cleaning before assembly.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

How are they bent? Did you leave them laying on their side for storage? This will warp any crankshaft, if the eagle was stored the same way have it professionally inspected IMO. Not to say you cant just be sure otherwise just going to kill the motor. A crankshaft should be stood on end(flywheel end) hung from crankbolt or storged in a crankshaft friendly wooden jig as to not warp them

Running925

All four crankshafts that i had on the shelf had bearing failures in previous builds. I saved them all. Between an engine builder and my self, we looked at (measured/checked) all of the crankshafts and picked the one that was in the best condition, regardless of make, model, race, or color.

EG1834

Whats up with that burnt looking spot on the closest cylinder?

Running925

It was just dirty, it's been sitting for over a year with WD and machine oil on it to prevent rust. I'll try and get the video recording of the cleaning up tonight.

rev-speed

if i were u i would run a gsr crank for reliability
-and if its just a weekend warrior e85 is a good friend lol.......

Running925

I appreciate the concern for the crank but i'm planning on using the eagle. Hopfully we can all get past that and move on.

As far as the e85 goes. I wish i could, but we do not have have it here locally, so we're building it for 92oct pump gas.

rev-speed

so whats the stroke on the eagle?

no e85 then methanol/water injection

Running925

Crank is LS Spec.

I'll look into water/meth injection before this thing gets droped in. It would definatly help. I remember years ago, i was looking at a couple of kits that xenocron was offering.

rev-speed

keep the rev down to make it reliable
we run snow performance kits
pumps do 220psi

PM'd

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like a nice setup. In for numbers.

slvrlude

turbociv910

you make it seem hard to build a honda engine, your misfortunes must have been negligence. Ive used plastigauge with no problems, 30k miles late still running great at 480 whp with off the shelf acl bearings.

sanman000719

eagle cranks are like crower cams are like rice crispies in the morning snap crackle pop into your wallet

civicgsrturbo32

What are you tuning with tony?

Running925

I still have my CromePro licence from the past. I'll probably get it fired up and running on that. I wouldn't mind moving on to something else if the funds allow when that time rolls around in the spring.

Regardless if I get the car back together before the spring, it will still sit until the pot holes are filled. So i have plenty of time to iron that out.

Running925

The beginning of the video's. PART 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-2NDM70k9Q

Running925

we did some more cleaning on my components this morning and started to do some measuring.

We found that the second main in the block is .002 larger than all the other's. I'm going have to take this block back to the machine shop for an align bore. I may also need to replace that cap. We'll see what the machinest says.

I'll probably also call dart to see how much the caps are. That way if i end up needing one or more, i'll know.

more waiting..

EG1834

.002" can probably be fixed with a simple align hone, as long as the cap isn't discolored or damaged. The MACHINIST will cut the joint face of the caps a few thousandths, then hone them all back out to size. Align boring probably isn't necessary.

Also, a little tip in case you didn't know, but try using laquer thinner and ATF to clean the cylinders, and alternate between the two. Just use laquer thinner until you think it's clean, then use the ATF and perpare to be amazed at how much more honing grit comes out on the paper towel. Then repeat and use oil as a final step to keep the cylinders from rusting.

Running925

Yea, i had this block align bored a couple years ago. It suffered from a miss-alignment issue. The caps are beefy as hell with no discoloration. We'll see what the machinest says. Hopfully it he will be able to work with the existing caps coz that would save me some money. But if it's iffy at all i'll get new ones. I want this thing made right.

that sounds interesting. I might give this a try. Thanks for the tip.