For those who have installed it, what exactly goes into the install process. I have an OBD I car so I think I can use my ECU. However, I think that a P30 ECU is recommended because the P28 has no knock control. Thats riases another question. Does the P28 have a knock sensor and sender, and just no feed into the ECU, OR does it have zero knock control? What year(s) and model(s) does a P30 ECU come from??

The Hondata web site mentions that a certain kind of soldering system and de-solderer is needed. Is this true or can regular ones be used.

Do you even have to solder a bunch of leads in? I never hear anyone complain about the install process or mention of this.

Lastly, I'm in NJ. For those of you in the tri-state (or vacinity) area with the system, where do you go to get it tuned?? The Hondata site does not list any dealers around the northeastern area.

Thanks for any help.


[Modified by ck279, 11:36 PM 1/28/2002]


[Modified by ck279, 11:38 PM 1/28/2002]

 

Try this http://www.hondata.com/downloads/installation.pdf you may need adobe acrobat. It tells you everything, even with pictures of the parts you need to desolder and resolder. I don't know how good you are with soldering, but 28 pins are a lot to desolder and resolder without the risk of shorting. I done lots of solder and yet still intimated. But then I got the P72 which requires two 28 pins ROM sockets.

 

P72 only needs 1 28pin socket.

yes the p28 doesnt have knock control, but factory knock control is seriously
lacking. You are better off getting a J&S.

 

Yep the stock knock control is to save grannies that put 87octane in and drive to the supermarket instead of 92 octane. It will /not/ save your motor under boost.

Dustin

 

Thanks for the replies.

I've heard many good,and also not so good things about the J&S unit. The negative being mainly that it can be too sensitive even when seemingly set up right. My question is: Am i better off with the J&S for knock control or the Honda P30 ECU? I would think the ECU because you don't have to calibrate it and it just replaces my existing one rather than having to wire in the J&S (kinda like adding a band aid when thats what I'm trying to avoid).

I guess I really need to look at those PDF installation pages. But that is A LOT of soldering. Not that I can't do it, but I'd be worried of something shorting or coming loose. Also, if Hondata REALLY recommends that special solderer then that adds a lot to the cost. That in itself makes me wonder about the AEM system. As I understand all their systems are going to be plug and play.

 

Hondata comes with a feature to /disable/ the stock knock sensor. It is not helpful.

Dustin

 

get a cheap but good vacuum desoldering station. I got one for about $150. If you do any electronics at all you will be glad you bought one. Doing the hondata just pushed me into buying one that I wanted anyway. You absolutely need one to get the solder out of the small holes. You will need the 1mm desolder tip as well.
http://www.web-tronics.com/dessysjfon15.html

torin

 

Whats the release date on the 92-95 EMUs?

You are better off with the J&S than the P30.

 

sgT, why do you feel the J&S in better than the P30??

You know what. I looked over those PDF pages from Hondata and you can send your ECU to them to have everything soldered on. That sounds good to me as I'm sure if they mess something up I'll have less of a problem getting it fixed than if I do. This will be the very first thing that I had someone else do on my car. Thats ok I guess, this isn't something that I want to mess up and "learn" from. They highly recommend sending to them as well. Who am I to argue.

I just wonder what they charge to do the work.

 

To socket the ecu with the chip, they charge $50. Better off sending it to them IMHO

 

ck...We are the NE dealer/tuner for Hondata systems. I'm in DE and our mobile dyno is based out of NH. We travel anywhere between VA and ME. Our 'Home Track' is Atco, but we also go to E-town, and other locations very convenient to you. As far as your ecu goes, P30's mostly come from later model B16's in the Del Sol. One of the other members mentioned about how lacking the Honda knock sensor is, and he is right. It only reads to around 5000 rpms, and if you choose to go with forged pistons, it would read the noise from the pistons as knock. This is why a lot of people remove the stock knock sensor. The stock knock sensor was not designed to work in boost applications. If you need an ECU with your system, I have pre-prepped p28's ready to go, this way you do not need to buy the soldering equipment, nor would I recommend attempting the modification of the ecu if you do not have the experience. Please call us at 866-DYNO-GUY or 302-521-5915 (my direct line) or email me at HPilot@podiumperformance.com with any further ?'s