I will be installing these soon on my y8 and i need to know if I have the installation process correct. I have searched and it just confused me. So what I do is apply the lube to the side with the short threads and then hand tighten the stud into the block, Then I place the head on top and put the washer on and step torque the nut up to around 65ft. lbs?

 

correct....step torque them to specs listing in your directions, they have atorque spec for ARP lube, and one for the studs lubed with motor oil.........

 

you step torque them. I do half of the final torque for the first step then I do the final torque for the second step. I run the engine untill it gets at normal temp. four or five times and then check the torque again. 98ctr

 

ARP head stud install


https://honda-tech.com/zeropost?cmd=tshow&id=279313

 

everything listed above is correct, but as a precautionary you may want to torque the studs down to the block with a torque wrench for better consistency. hand tight should work, but some people have had problems in the past with the stud backing out after installing. plus hand tight can never really be as accurate since our hands can be so insensitive esp when screwing in bolts. i'd say torquing them down to 10 ft-lbs should be good enough and prevent them from ever backing out. good luck with your install

 

thanx for all the info guys! I just have a couple more questions...which threads to I put into the block? The longer or the shorter threads? Also where do I put the lube? Do I just put it on the threads that go into the block?

 

Instrutions do not come with the Arp headstuds SOHC_Mshue? I am about to get mine today

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pengo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everything listed above is correct, but as a precautionary you may want to torque the studs down to the block with a torque wrench for better consistency. hand tight should work, but some people have had problems in the past with the stud backing out after installing. plus hand tight can never really be as accurate since our hands can be so insensitive esp when screwing in bolts. i'd say torquing them down to 10 ft-lbs should be good enough and prevent them from ever backing out. good luck with your install</TD></TR></TABLE>

I torqued mine into the block 12 ft lbs as this is the lowest the wrench would go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Instrutions do not come with the Arp headstuds SOHC_Mshue? I am about to get mine today</TD></TR></TABLE>

it came with instructions, but they aren't all that great. They don't tell you which side of the threads need to go in the block and they also don't tell you anything about torquing the studs into the block first...they just say hand tight.

 

there is different type of thread on each side of the stud. If you don't know what side goes into the block, then you should not attempt this project. 98ctr

 

The way ive always done mine was to first clean the threads in the block with brake clean and run a tap threw them. Then i make sure there all clean start to thread the stud down and after a few turns i put a bit of oil on them then torque them hand tight. then clean up all the access oil and clean ur block surface install the head. Then apply some arp moly stuff grease on the threads and in the center of the nuts and torque them down to 20ft lbs then 50 then 75 ft lbs never had a prob with mine. ELSPOOL did the exact same procedure and is head lifting issues have gone away.

 

alright i just took a closer look at them todady and there is one side with a place to tighten them in with an allen wrench so i'm assuming thats the side that doesn't go into the block

 

thats the one

 

Short thread side goes into the block [i think].

 

are you sure about that? It looks to me like the side with the place for the allen wrench is the shorter side. Remember this is for a d16y8 and not a B series. I'm not sure if the thread lengths are different or not.

 

no...i'm not too sure. if the allen key is on the other end, i'd put that facing up.

 

allen key end is up use an allen key to get them in nice and tight or you can double nut and use a torque wrench and torque them in