hey im stuck at a fork in the road and dont know which way to go. every runs amazingly well my tuner did a good job.

so far this is what i have:

-stock b18b1 obd1 block and head
-skunk2 intake manifold
-walbro 255
-450cc injectors
-chipped ecu from pharable tuned on crome at 7.25 psi
-t3/t4 compressor
- 2 inch piping from compressor to intercooler
- 2.5 from intercooler to t/b
- shitty tuffy made downpipe
- gutted cat
- 2.5 in cat back
-tial 38mm
- greddy type-s blow off vavle


now i dont know what i should upgrade next do i up the boost ? get better exhuast ? what would u do in my situation ?

 

none ?

 

no ideas?

 

how much power are you making and what are your goals? i think most people will suggest full 3" exhaust and maybe bigger injectors if you plan on going more than 300whp.

 

I have pretty much the same setup, except a 3" exhaust but stock intake. I run up to 11 psi (stock MAP).

I don't know what car you have, but the three best things to go for now are:

1. turbo manifold (equal len tubes)/ 3" DP
2. head work
3. cams

each of these is expensive, but they give you the best bang for the $$

 

are you running 11psi on a stock block?

 

pharable is tampa based... that tells me you got a base map from John Vega in the mail. that is in no way tuned. a base map is designed to let you run the engine, and possibly drive it easily to a tuner. If I were you, I would grab an adjustable fpr and take it to a tuner. Pay no attention to how many psi you are running, depending on the specs of that turbo, you will probably max out those injectors before 11psi anyway.

I apologize in advance if you actually had the car in FL to get tuned...

 

New map sensor, dual stage boost controller, and a retune. Anything else would be a waste of money and totally unnecessary.

 

that map sensor will work just fine for 11 psi, and that is low enough boost not to need a dual stage controller... T-off the signal hose and tune...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that map sensor will work just fine for 11 psi, and that is low enough boost not to need a dual stage controller... T-off the signal hose and tune...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, who said anything about 11psi? 15psi if he is using a standard t3/t04e will yield close to 300whp and be maxing out his 450cc injectors. 15psi will also result in him making 250-260wtq. Thats quite a bit on a FWD vehicle so a dual stage boost controller will allow him to control his power better. You guys just like spending lots of money for **** gains.

 

lol i said no money, no upgrades, just a tune!

 

map sensor=$20. dual stage boost controller= $50. What is the point of tuning without a boost controller? What is the point of running more boost if your traction is poor? What is the point of spending $300-500 for a retune and being limited by a $20 map sensor? Again, map sensor, dual stage boost controller, and a retune.

 

more important than running more boost would be to get a better downpipe and exhaust setup if you are worried about wasting a tune... there is more power to be made at 12psi or less with proper exhaust than 16psi with **** setup...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more important than running more boost would be to get a better downpipe and exhaust setup if you are worried about wasting a tune... there is more power to be made at 12psi or less with proper exhaust than 16psi with **** setup...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, no. Exhaust and downpipe=$400. Boost controller+map sensor=$70. I don't care about this psi per hp bull. I care about making economical power. My way will yield the most power per dollar.

 

oh ok economical, unsafe, jerry rigged power... in that case i stand corrected. You sir are correct.

 

the engine is street tuned on chrome

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok economical, unsafe, jerry rigged power... in that case i stand corrected. You sir are correct.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you have any experience? How is running a smaller exhaust jerry rigged and unsafe? Explain how what I'm saying is remotely invalid and bad advice. If he is looking to make 300whp, the cheapest way is a boost controller and tuning. I don't know when people started thinking you needed $800 manifolds, 4" exhausts, and 1000cc injectors to make 300whp, but you don't. Your advice is meaningless Honda-Tech horseshit. Max out 450cc injectors before 11psi. ****, what a joke.

 

umm, first of all he never said that he wanted the cheapest way out, and never said that he had an ultimate goal of 300 whp. I have plenty of experience, my car did 366whp @9psi bone stock h22. If you knew anything at all, you would understand that it is always safer to do things right and make more power per psi rather than crank the boost like a 16 year old punk with a gst... my advice is valid and you are a douche bag.

 

Explain to me why my method won't be safe. If my method didn't wasn't valid, don't you think more people would be running a lot larger frame turbos on lower boost because "omg hp/psi".

 

i didnt say it wont be safe, i said it would be safer to do it right though. larger frame turbos are not necessary anymore because of the efficiency of gt series turbos, and more specifically ball bearing units which as you know are overwhelmingly popular. t3t4 is old technology, far less efficient. again, your method is not wrong, if i was flat *** broke, i would even consider it, but the poster asked what I would do in his situation, and did not mention any kind of financial hardship...

 

lol you 2 argue like a married couple.

he can make more power either route but if he is looking for upgrades, meaning improving his setup for the future, then exhaust and maybe some cams would make things more efficient. if he just wants to make it to 300whp, then sure crank the boost. effective but not very efficient.

at some point the 2.5" exhaust and 450's are gonna become a problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol you 2 argue like a married couple.

he can make more power either route but if he is looking for upgrades, meaning improving his setup for the future, then exhaust and maybe some cams would make things more efficient. if he just wants to make it to 300whp, then sure crank the boost. effective but not very efficient.

at some point the 2.5" exhaust and 450's are gonna become a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thank you