Ignition for a boosted d16...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also do you any of you guys know why my tach would be jumping all over the place?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me guess, cheapass chinese reman "lifetime warranty" garbage distributor?
You have an ignitor problem....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as for the dizzy well yea i think it was cheap crap lol since it was 140 bucks new lol
....but you think its the ignitor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hrm. Tach going all to hell is classic ignitor... or thermostat/misc ground problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll directly retype what JD said if you want to hear it from another mouth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me guess, cheapass chinese reman "lifetime warranty" garbage distributor?
You have an ignitor problem....</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as for the dizzy well yea i think it was cheap crap lol since it was 140 bucks new lol
....but you think its the ignitor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hrm. Tach going all to hell is classic ignitor... or thermostat/misc ground problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll directly retype what JD said if you want to hear it from another mouth.
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is only one page, Grasshopper-san. Can you not read the writing?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'll smack you lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>i'll smack you lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll smack you lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nonsense! People who meet me IRL love me. I am only an asshat online.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nonsense! People who meet me IRL love me. I am only an asshat online.
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
ok so i picked up a brand new diizy from honda we'll see if this fixes it, i woulda tested today but its raingin and thats no good for traction
Try a step colder plug. if your breaking up in the higher rpms and you have gapped them down you have to hot of a plug. a set os BKR8E should do it. i personally stick with the iriduim plugs. BKR8EIX
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try a step colder plug. if your breaking up in the higher rpms and you have gapped them down you have to hot of a plug. a set os BKR8E should do it. i personally stick with the iriduim plugs. BKR8EIX
</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no such thing as a BKR8E plug. I wish.
</TD></TR></TABLE>There is no such thing as a BKR8E plug. I wish.
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
yea i was gunna say lol, well i swapped out the dizzy and everything seems good, just gotta turn the boost back up and see, Also part of the problem was the fact that i need new lower control arm bushings so it was causing rediculous wheel hop when i hit 12ish psi then the dizzy would start cutting out so it seemed liken i hit a wall, got new energy suspension bushing and the new dizzy and its a lot better
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try a step colder plug. if your breaking up in the higher rpms and you have gapped them down you have to hot of a plug. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Instead of trying blindly you can read the plugs and know for sure. Too cold of a plug can glaze, causing the exact same problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i personally stick with the iriduim plugs. BKR8EIX
</TD></TR></TABLE>
My post history on HT has been quite brief of late; it will not be difficult to go back a couple months and 25 or so posts to where I gave several different lengthy technical explainations on why iridium is not a performance conductor, and I go on in great length about why it is somewhat less desireable than locker room sodomy. IIRC, John from LHT hopped into one of said threads and explained how exactly iridum plugs destroyed one of his engines.
I'm a big fan of not offering advice on something that I, personally, don't have an intimate theoretical and first hand knowledge of. Others are apparently less tactful.
The R5672Ax series of plugs is the next jump... substitute 7 thru 10 for x. If you ever find the need for an 11, the R5671Ax (which most tuners recommend as the next upgrade, for no reason they can ever explain to me) do the job but are less desireable as they have the electrode recessed for high CR applications where the piston is excessively domed. For a flat/dish piston, where there is no chance of piston/ground strap interference, starting the spark a fraction of an inch deeper in the chamber is common sense.
Instead of trying blindly you can read the plugs and know for sure. Too cold of a plug can glaze, causing the exact same problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i personally stick with the iriduim plugs. BKR8EIX
</TD></TR></TABLE>My post history on HT has been quite brief of late; it will not be difficult to go back a couple months and 25 or so posts to where I gave several different lengthy technical explainations on why iridium is not a performance conductor, and I go on in great length about why it is somewhat less desireable than locker room sodomy. IIRC, John from LHT hopped into one of said threads and explained how exactly iridum plugs destroyed one of his engines.
I'm a big fan of not offering advice on something that I, personally, don't have an intimate theoretical and first hand knowledge of. Others are apparently less tactful.
The R5672Ax series of plugs is the next jump... substitute 7 thru 10 for x. If you ever find the need for an 11, the R5671Ax (which most tuners recommend as the next upgrade, for no reason they can ever explain to me) do the job but are less desireable as they have the electrode recessed for high CR applications where the piston is excessively domed. For a flat/dish piston, where there is no chance of piston/ground strap interference, starting the spark a fraction of an inch deeper in the chamber is common sense.
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
ok so new dizzy is on and same thing happens, i think i am just getting crazy wheel hop and its causing my stereo to skip and it seems like a ignition cut of some sort, i guess i will be picking up some traction bars now too, hopefully this fixes the problem, Also it happens only some of the time, i'm thinking my tierod ball joints are on their way out and have too much play so the wheels can move more than they should and when accelerating they do
Your tach is still skipping around?
And your entire distributor (sub-assembly, coil, ignitor, cap and rotor) are OEM as are the plug wires?
And your entire distributor (sub-assembly, coil, ignitor, cap and rotor) are OEM as are the plug wires?
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
no my tach is fine now and everything is oem other than the wires which are crane, i am running bkr7e's now as well, i mean it pulls really hard and then all of a sudden it happens like a wall, i think i am just getting wheelhop now...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, how are your individual cylinder trims? Every 250+ whp SOHC I've touched started liking massive amounts of fuel on cyl #3. Might just be a quirk of the Y8 manifold's flow under pressure, but some of it is a reflection of heat buildup in that small bore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Joseph how are you testing the need for extra fuel on #3? Are you just pulling plugs I assume? Or did you ever get to fool around with one of those 4way egt gauges on a sohc?
Also, how are your individual cylinder trims? Every 250+ whp SOHC I've touched started liking massive amounts of fuel on cyl #3. Might just be a quirk of the Y8 manifold's flow under pressure, but some of it is a reflection of heat buildup in that small bore.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Joseph how are you testing the need for extra fuel on #3? Are you just pulling plugs I assume? Or did you ever get to fool around with one of those 4way egt gauges on a sohc?
i dont know if this will solve ur problem or not, but i think the best ignition setup u can do for a sohc if stock dizzy isnt working good is :
bypass stock ignitor with the circuit floating around here, use a digital ignition box, and run an external coil witth an msd cap.
i read somewhere that M&w ignition boxes dont need that circuit in order to bypass the stock ignitor.
anone care to shed some light on that?
bypass stock ignitor with the circuit floating around here, use a digital ignition box, and run an external coil witth an msd cap.
i read somewhere that M&w ignition boxes dont need that circuit in order to bypass the stock ignitor.
anone care to shed some light on that?
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