Ignition for a boosted d16...
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
Ok so i think its about time i upgraded my ignition, right now i am running all stock with crane wires and ngk plugs, but i am having problems with the distributor and it breaks up bad at anything over 15psi.
I am looking for a GOOD upgrade, i run cromepro so i dont think i can run a COP setup even though i would like to, what are your guys suggestions, i want something thats gunna last me a long time and work really well cost at this point is irrelevant. I've heard the good and the bad about msd stuff same with aem ect ect. What do some of you high hp guys use?
If it helps this si my setup, fully built d16z6, sleeved and bored to 78mm, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, 57 trim t3/t04e and direct port nitrous...
thanks,
matt
edit: also i am an ignition noob here hence why i ahve kept the stock ignition so long, so specific units and parts would be much obliged
Modified by Soccerking3000 at 11:21 PM 7/12/2006
I am looking for a GOOD upgrade, i run cromepro so i dont think i can run a COP setup even though i would like to, what are your guys suggestions, i want something thats gunna last me a long time and work really well cost at this point is irrelevant. I've heard the good and the bad about msd stuff same with aem ect ect. What do some of you high hp guys use?
If it helps this si my setup, fully built d16z6, sleeved and bored to 78mm, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, 57 trim t3/t04e and direct port nitrous...
thanks,
matt
edit: also i am an ignition noob here hence why i ahve kept the stock ignition so long, so specific units and parts would be much obliged
Modified by Soccerking3000 at 11:21 PM 7/12/2006
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
where can i look up info on those, also i forgot to mention but i want something that can allow a 2 or 3 step cut for launches
edit: wow how did i miss the link lol
edit: wow how did i miss the link lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also would individual coil be beneficial such as the pro-14 cdi from m&w?</TD></TR></TABLE>
the ecu you are using only has one ignition output. i would look at the pro-10 unit.
the ecu you are using only has one ignition output. i would look at the pro-10 unit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so i think its about time i upgraded my ignition, right now i am running all stock with crane wires and ngk plugs, but i am having problems with the distributor and it breaks up bad at anything over 15psi.
I am looking for a GOOD upgrade[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try upgrading to OEM plug wires.
I've run more than 15 on stock D16 nothing special ignition. You are around the 300 whp level, there is nothing esoteric going on here except the distinct loss of quality when you stepped away from the OEM wires.
Say, what plug are you running?
I am looking for a GOOD upgrade[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>
Try upgrading to OEM plug wires.
I've run more than 15 on stock D16 nothing special ignition. You are around the 300 whp level, there is nothing esoteric going on here except the distinct loss of quality when you stepped away from the OEM wires.
Say, what plug are you running?
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
i am more around the 420whp level lol without nitrous, i am running BKR7E-11plugs at .28 gap, i have gapped them down to .013 to see if it changed anything and it didnt...
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
Thread Starter
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
also do you any of you guys know why my tach would be jumping all over the place? could that be a hint at the problem, if i am steadily accelerating my tach will all of a sudden stop, the car keeps accelerating but then it jumped to the right rpm then stops again. Should i try replacing the ignitor and coil?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it was a new dizzy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also do you any of you guys know why my tach would be jumping all over the place?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me guess, cheapass chinese reman "lifetime warranty" garbage distributor?
You have an ignitor problem, and at this point I wouldn't trust the coil either. It might be to your advantage to run an aftermarket high voltage coil with the stock ignition (no stupid controller box). They are cheaper than a new OEM, and I don't trust OEM clones.
That must be one hell of a SOHC to knock off 400+ at 15 psi. Where does the heat mark fall on the ground strap of your spark plugs? I've never dealt with SOHC + racegas to have any experience... but for pump gas, a 7 is too hot.
Also, how are your individual cylinder trims? Every 250+ whp SOHC I've touched started liking massive amounts of fuel on cyl #3. Might just be a quirk of the Y8 manifold's flow under pressure, but some of it is a reflection of heat buildup in that small bore.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also do you any of you guys know why my tach would be jumping all over the place?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me guess, cheapass chinese reman "lifetime warranty" garbage distributor?
You have an ignitor problem, and at this point I wouldn't trust the coil either. It might be to your advantage to run an aftermarket high voltage coil with the stock ignition (no stupid controller box). They are cheaper than a new OEM, and I don't trust OEM clones.
That must be one hell of a SOHC to knock off 400+ at 15 psi. Where does the heat mark fall on the ground strap of your spark plugs? I've never dealt with SOHC + racegas to have any experience... but for pump gas, a 7 is too hot.
Also, how are your individual cylinder trims? Every 250+ whp SOHC I've touched started liking massive amounts of fuel on cyl #3. Might just be a quirk of the Y8 manifold's flow under pressure, but some of it is a reflection of heat buildup in that small bore.
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
no i was running 28+ psi before it just started happening right around 15psi and this is on race gas not pump lol, i amthinking about just picking up a new dizzy from honda it just sucks cause they are 430 bucks lol, would you suggest an msd external coil with a modified cap? AS for cylinder trims yes #3 cylinder has about 5% more fuel in it than the rest which was adjusted via cromepro
as for the dizzy well yea i think it was cheap crap lol since it was 140 bucks new lol
and i'd have to check to see where the heat marks are on the grounding strap, the car runs fine but when i get on it like hits a damn wall/ignition cut scares the hell outta me but you think its the ignitor?
edit: and i dont have a y8 manifold
as for the dizzy well yea i think it was cheap crap lol since it was 140 bucks new lol
and i'd have to check to see where the heat marks are on the grounding strap, the car runs fine but when i get on it like hits a damn wall/ignition cut scares the hell outta me but you think its the ignitor?
edit: and i dont have a y8 manifold
Hrm. Tach going all to hell is classic ignitor... or thermostat/misc ground problem. Poke at it, see if it bleats.
New distributors = skrill. Old distributors = free + $12 for new bearings if there is any play in the shaft + whatever a new OEM ignitor costs (90 or less with hookup?) + 60 MSD coil. Just keep in mind... if you do replace bearings... those security torx bits are held in with Loctite and the heads snap off if you don't heat them first with a mini torch or large soldering gun, preferrably a 300 watt monster.
What IM are you running? 5% is pretty conservative compared to my pump gas experience, if that's due to better flow distribution I'm very interested...
New distributors = skrill. Old distributors = free + $12 for new bearings if there is any play in the shaft + whatever a new OEM ignitor costs (90 or less with hookup?) + 60 MSD coil. Just keep in mind... if you do replace bearings... those security torx bits are held in with Loctite and the heads snap off if you don't heat them first with a mini torch or large soldering gun, preferrably a 300 watt monster.
What IM are you running? 5% is pretty conservative compared to my pump gas experience, if that's due to better flow distribution I'm very interested...
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From: Catching Rivers on Fire TWICE
this isnt pump gas though lol, as for intake mani its an edelbrock performer x, as for my old dizzy its fucked lol, completely screwed up somehow the rotor screw backed out and ended up messing everything up, badly. i will pick up a new ignitor and see if it fixes it along with a new external coil from summit, gotta love them being 1/2 hour away
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Old distributors = free + $12 for new bearings..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Happen to have a part # handy for a replacement bearing?
Happen to have a part # handy for a replacement bearing?
The bearing PN was floating around the old hybrid.jp site circa six years back. I have it saved on a HD on a dead fileserver I've been too lazy to ressurrect. You don't see it as a tech blurb more often because, frankly, these are PITAs to go through until you learn not to break off the torx fittings... most people go through it once, and never again.
The last time I needed to replace a bearing, I just took it to Dixie Bearing and had them match it up. Any bearing supplier can do the same.
The last time I needed to replace a bearing, I just took it to Dixie Bearing and had them match it up. Any bearing supplier can do the same.


