im sorry but i was talking in a highway situation. ie thats what im building my car for so i guess you could see how it wouldnt be right for a track atmosphere

however there are people who like to run long and short gears

 

i wouldn't build your engine for higher rpms as of now. thats something that can wait and 300 more rpms isnt really worth it. if i were you i would just get a t25 if you know you only want 150-160 whp, that will give you boost early in your rpms. if you plan on having more hp later then i would go with the t3, the t3 will boost in the 3k range but will give you a better top end. the t3 would be a lot better if you want to raise your rpm to something higher. the t25 will maybe lower your hp when you get around 7.2k or a little more and at that point you should just shift before that rpm where it starts to drop. theres a lot of information on turbo d16's on http://www.turbod16.com i would recommend you check out that site and just read stuff that relates to what you want.

 

short gears and a light flywheel will always make the car faster.

 

short 1-4 and long 5th FTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im sorry but i was talking in a highway situation. ie thats what im building my car for so i guess you could see how it wouldnt be right for a track atmosphere

however there are people who like to run long and short gears </TD></TR></TABLE>

You would still want short gears for a highway race too. If you take equal cars, one with a shorter 5th for instance, you might win in a top speed race, but the shorter gear is gonna pull you. So really your building a car for top speed, no matter how long it takes to get there.

 

thanks for all the info
what turbo comes with the greddy kit, ive been looking at it but i cant find out what size it is. Is it t3?

Im also considering putting together my own kit like some people have suggested.
So where would i find a t25 or a t3 turbo and how much should i look to spend?

thanks, also any other suggestions on what ill need for my custom kit would be great: exhaust manifold, dp, ecu, intercooler, etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you really dont want something to spool 2500, you wont be able to drive up hills without going into boost, and it gets annoying after a while. at least it did for me.

i used to have a t3 60 trim with a .48 exhaust housing on a d16z6. i used to see my 6-7 psi by around 3500, and it pulled nice to 7400.

here's what you do...:
buy aftermarket headstuds, youll need them because turbo d heads like to lift
if u want a cam, zex 59300. if you want to rev over 7200 then get the springs and retainers too. id probably rev to 7500-7600 max with that on a stock boost block.
get a 3" downpipe and exhaust, it will help spool and power.

get a good tune, it makes a world of difference.

good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is a great place to start. Don't kill yourself about reving 200-400rpm more. get your feet wet first and try the set up above. It is cheap and pretty reliable. 200hp at 7200rpm is way better then 160 at 7600 rpm get my drift.

A t3 turbo is easy to find and pretty reliable. ALso a good log manifold with a 3" down pipe from a company like Spoolin or RLD fab or some one else who is decent will get you where you want to be. Get a ebay intercooler and some IC piping 2" for spooling. Once you are done with that you will see it will be really fast and pretty dependable. revving high puts alot of stress on engines, more so then just 8psi.

T3-$100-200
mani, down pipe, dump tube 400-600
450 DSM injectors- $50-80
Ebay intercooler- 100-200
intercooler piping 150-250
CLutch- 150-450
Zex cam- 150- 250
DSM BOV 60
Ebay Waste gate 100
Head studs- 100
this is an IDEA of what you are looking at, this is with out the exhaust which you will probably need.

Good Luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drintegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this is a great place to start. Don't kill yourself about reving 200-400rpm more. get your feet wet first and try the set up above. It is cheap and pretty reliable. 200hp at 7200rpm is way better then 160 at 7600 rpm get my drift.

A t3 turbo is easy to find and pretty reliable. ALso a good log manifold with a 3" down pipe from a company like Spoolin or RLD fab or some one else who is decent will get you where you want to be. Get a ebay intercooler and some IC piping 2" for spooling. Once you are done with that you will see it will be really fast and pretty dependable. revving high puts alot of stress on engines, more so then just 8psi.

T3-$100-200
mani, down pipe, dump tube 400-600
450 DSM injectors- $50-80
Ebay intercooler- 100-200
intercooler piping 150-250
CLutch- 150-450
Zex cam- 150- 250
DSM BOV 60
Ebay Waste gate 100
Head studs- 100
this is an IDEA of what you are looking at, this is with out the exhaust which you will probably need.

Good Luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, im not so worried anymore about revving high. My main concern is just that boost will come early in the 3k rpm range, maybe even before that.

One quick question, you want smaller IC piping so the turbo will spool faster, right?

thanks for all the help

 

look for an ihi rhb5 turbo if you are out for mainly fast spool. it'll hit 10 psi by like 3200 probably, but its small so you might have to run a few more psi to reach your power goals. ball bearing ftw!

 

To add to the list of things your going to need, Dont forget about fuel management.

 

you might want to look at the 14b or t25 if you want spool before 3k rpms, both will get you rather close to not loosing power up top at 7200 rpm and they will spool rather quick (before your 3k rpm). the rhb5 is a ford probe turbo if i remember correctly will probably lose hp around 6k in the rpm range. if not before.

here is the t25 vs 14b from people who use them

http://turbod16.com/viewtopic....spool


Modified by BryanLavo at 2:41 PM 10/25/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BryanLavo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you might want to look at the 14b or t25 if you want spool before 3k rpms, both will get you rather close to not loosing power up top at 7200 rpm and they will spool rather quick (before your 3k rpm). the rhb5 is a ford probe turbo if i remember correctly will probably lose hp around 6k in the rpm range. if not before.

here is the t25 vs 14b from people who use them

http://turbod16.com/viewtopic....spool

Modified by BryanLavo at 2:41 PM 10/25/2006</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look for an ihi rhb5 turbo if you are out for mainly fast spool. it'll hit 10 psi by like 3200 probably, but its small so you might have to run a few more psi to reach your power goals. ball bearing ftw!</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much do those cost approx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18sihatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok sorry for your misunderstanding, i always talk in a highway race situation becuase that is hwat im building my car for... ok so you are going to tell me for a highway race you want short gears?

for a track situation you want as short as possible, however traction issues become something to deal with

</TD></TR></TABLE>

k, if we have 2 b16s both have say 300whp and the same driver. the b16 with the b16 tranny will be quicker than the b16 with the LS tranny. On the highway, on the track, on the street, from a roll, from a stop, doing anything. traction issues aside of course.

lets now get back to topic as there is nothing else to talk about regaurding which tranny makes your car the quickest... fastest is another topic.

 

it pretty much all depends on what deals you can find. i have bought turbos from a junkyard for $50, some people can pick them up even cheaper. i would search junkyards around you first, then probably a reliable person on honda-tech.com, turbod16.com, or homemadeturbo.com. and there is always ebay. it all depends on how much money your willing to spend... my friend built his entire turbo kit for his 240sx for $800 but its all on the deals you find and how reliable the pieces are.

 

The problem with saying you were going NA, then want a 160whp d-setup, is that you're wasting money. A mildly worked b16 will get you that power for the same price as if you sell what you have now and use the $$ you'd be putting to a turbo setup.

As for reality, a d16 with a basemap and a junkyard .42/.48 T3 turbo will do 180whp on 7psi. It will start spooling before 2500 and have full boost before 4000... on a basemap and tiny exhaust. The Greddy kit (15g turbo, between 14b and T3 size) does a claimed 180whp w/o an intercooler, and I think thats with an FMU. For those claiming a turbo is too small, you'd have to consult compressor maps. They 'fall off' up high because they drop way below 50% effeciency. For instance, even a GT15 will give you ~60% effeciency at 7k rpm running 8psi on a d16.

The real key to a low-power turbo setup is running a turbo not to large, not too small, on lower boost, but completely optimize everything else. 2.25" charge piping, full 3" DP to cat (larger cat and b-pipe if possible), good tuning, and a good manifold. I have a d16 spooling a t3/t04b to 10psi by 4000 rpm, and pulls like a horny gorilla to redline - all because of tuning and the exhaust.

The last info I'd like to toss out - you only need an ultra-fast spool if the turbo is huge, or you're doing some auto-x in a gas station parking lot (i.e. where you can't downshift). Otherwise one click of the gears and you're in heavy boost. Nobody in their right mind has a need to 'pull' from idle to redline, except for arrogant factory-turbo guys.


btw, look at the projects on homemadeturbo.com, as they used a bunch of small turbos in some of them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you really dont want something to spool 2500, you wont be able to drive up hills without going into boost, and it gets annoying after a while. at least it did for me.

i used to have a t3 60 trim with a .48 exhaust housing on a d16z6. i used to see my 6-7 psi by around 3500, and it pulled nice to 7400.

here's what you do...:
buy aftermarket headstuds, youll need them because turbo d heads like to lift
if u want a cam, zex 59300. if you want to rev over 7200 then get the springs and retainers too. id probably rev to 7500-7600 max with that on a stock boost block.
get a 3" downpipe and exhaust, it will help spool and power.

get a good tune, it makes a world of difference.

good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Emphasis in quote added by me.

I really don't see how going into boost up a hill is a problem. I don't see it as either good or bad, unless you don't have adequate power outside of boost, then its obviously a good thing.

For example, the tiny tiny KKK turbo in my gf's Audi is spooled up before 1,800 rpm. In fact, the dang thing makes peak torque at 1,950 rpm, and carries power up past its peak at 6k. Then again, I half imagine that the overall engine design contributes to the early power as well (9.3:1 20 valve 1.8 liter).

Just being in the rpm band doesn't mean you'll be actively producing boost either, you have to open the throttle body enough to allow adequate air through the engine to spin it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lightcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">short 1-4 and long 5th FTW</TD></TR></TABLE>

dubs on that, i dont think you should ever hit 5th freeway racing anyways, unless you next to a supra .

 

thanks for all the input, im considering the BASIC greddy kit w/o intercooler. I would buy that seperate. What else do you guys think i will need beside intercooler and IC piping, i.e. injectors or any kind of fuel management that does not come with the kit.

i would basically buy the kit and just upgrade the turbo components. I def want intercooler so that will come shortly after i buy the kit

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem with saying you were going NA, then want a 160whp d-setup, is that you're wasting money. A mildly worked b16 will get you that power for the same price as if you sell what you have now and use the $$ you'd be putting to a turbo setup</TD></TR></TABLE>

trust me ive considered the B16 and i do realize that just doing a few things would get me to 150 whp and still be N/A. I want to try something diff and boost my car. THE REASON I WANT A SMALL TURBO IS SO THAT I WILL NOTICE THE INCREASE IN POWER EVEN WHEN IM JUST DD.