I BOOSTED!.....for a second anyhow
Well i boosted today guys! HOLY **** THE THING PULLED LIKE A ******* MACHINE! i was in awe......then it happened.....i blew a ******* intercooler pipe off, the clamps didnt hold. so i was like ok, limp it home, tighten it back on.......then back out i go! only to have the same thing happen in a different spot.....
what the hell do i do? how can i get my clamps to hold, am i boosting THAT much, i didnt get a chance to look at my guage since it happened so fast.
also a concern i have, whats the max boost i can get at this set up, cause i dont want to hit it. I run Drag with RC 340s, Tial 35mm (.3 bar spring) and Turbo XS MBC. i dont want to run more then 6 psi at this time, how can i make sure i dont go anymore then that, and what is the max the car could hit with out me knowing?
what do i do about my I/C pipes? does anyone have this problem
what the hell do i do? how can i get my clamps to hold, am i boosting THAT much, i didnt get a chance to look at my guage since it happened so fast.
also a concern i have, whats the max boost i can get at this set up, cause i dont want to hit it. I run Drag with RC 340s, Tial 35mm (.3 bar spring) and Turbo XS MBC. i dont want to run more then 6 psi at this time, how can i make sure i dont go anymore then that, and what is the max the car could hit with out me knowing?
what do i do about my I/C pipes? does anyone have this problem
I hope you aren't using a screwdriver to try and tighten them. You will never be able to get them tight enough.
When I use a socket or wrench I can torque them down extra tight.
Or you can get much stronger clamps. I forgot where I got mine.
When I use a socket or wrench I can torque them down extra tight.
Or you can get much stronger clamps. I forgot where I got mine.
tommrow AM i plan on going to loook for stronger hose clamps, and i used a screwdriver handle with a socket drive.....tommorow i will cut the bullshit, and go right for the ratchet.....any suggestions though?
i used a screwdriver handle with a socket drive
Use coarse sandpaper to scuff the last 3/4inch of each pipe end. Should help with gripping. That's what I was told to do to mine...works fine.
Trending Topics
what always worked for me was bending a lip on the end of each pipe with vicegrips. it doesn't look pretty but its covered by the coupler and never gave me problems even @ 24 psi
If you find a shop that has one you can use a beading machine to create a bead on the ends of the pipes. It's just a tool that presses out a bead in the pipe. Otherwise just use that vicegrip idea, I like that one.
You can also get T-Bolt clamps which are a heavy duty clamp that you can only use a ratchet on. You can tighten them up like a mother... Well, anyway, is it blowing before the intercooler only?
You can also get T-Bolt clamps which are a heavy duty clamp that you can only use a ratchet on. You can tighten them up like a mother... Well, anyway, is it blowing before the intercooler only?
you can tiighten the crap out of the clamps .. or u can do it this way ..
beeding the ends of the ic pipes ..
check it out here ..
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...icpipebead.htm
beeding the ends of the ic pipes ..
check it out here ..
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...icpipebead.htm
I used to have a problem with my IC pipe directly connected to the turbo housing, used to either pop off or the coupler would explode altogether. I switched to a thick radiator hose and haven't had a problem since. Got those clamps tied down hard thanks to a racthet set too, definatley gonna wanna use one of those.
I like my three step method for the DRAG piping
1. course sandpaper to provide friction
2. T bolt's - available at NAPA for 1.25 (or from Turbonetics for 7.00!)
3. Bead welding. Just have some dots of weld put around each end of each pipe, one each at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions
Never had a problem
1. course sandpaper to provide friction
2. T bolt's - available at NAPA for 1.25 (or from Turbonetics for 7.00!)
3. Bead welding. Just have some dots of weld put around each end of each pipe, one each at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions
Never had a problem
I like my three step method for the DRAG piping
1. course sandpaper to provide friction
2. T bolt's - available at NAPA for 1.25 (or from Turbonetics for 7.00!)
3. Bead welding. Just have some dots of weld put around each end of each pipe, one each at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions
Never had a problem
1. course sandpaper to provide friction
2. T bolt's - available at NAPA for 1.25 (or from Turbonetics for 7.00!)
3. Bead welding. Just have some dots of weld put around each end of each pipe, one each at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions
Never had a problem
oh yeah it was definitly fun!!! for all who don't know me, i am NYb16's little brother and when the boost kicked in...no words could explain except "my neck hurts"!!!
I like my three step method for the DRAG piping
1. course sandpaper to provide friction
2. T bolt's - available at NAPA for 1.25 (or from Turbonetics for 7.00!)
3. Bead welding. Just have some dots of weld put around each end of each pipe, one each at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions
Never had a problem
1. course sandpaper to provide friction
2. T bolt's - available at NAPA for 1.25 (or from Turbonetics for 7.00!)
3. Bead welding. Just have some dots of weld put around each end of each pipe, one each at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions
Never had a problem
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
turboH22Aakkord
Forced Induction
20
Aug 26, 2005 06:36 AM





