<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Hick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I really doubt he is going to be pulling the motor apart now to take out the blockguard. If it was installed correctly he shouldn't have any problems with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's odd. I coulda swore I read:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GForceInteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What would you do with this setup if it were your own???</TD></TR></TABLE>

As for the block guard, I haven't seen a single block with a block guard run at more than 14psi for anything longer than a year unless the owner drove it like a puss. Block guards do more harm than good in the long run.

 

Not to question anyones judgment but why why do block gaurds not last?

 

hondata or aem.

then i would just work on the chassis. brakes and suspension. you got a nice setup that you can roadrace.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hondata or aem.

then i would just work on the chassis. brakes and suspension. you got a nice setup that you can roadrace. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok you got my attention. I wanted to get into scca when i first started thinking about building a car, but then one christmas blam my wife bought me a greddy kit. I didnt think you could biuld a turbo car which could run high rpm for that long of a time. would like some more info on this as well if possible thx.

I didnt post eveything since the thread was originally for the motor setup but for suspension.brakes i have :

Eibach sway bar set
Pro-drive Full car bushing set
Kyb adjustable shocks all around
weapon-r coilovers
APR front upper strut bar
Dcsports rear upper and lower bars
Tenzo-r big rotor setup
Green stuff brake pads
and 215/40/zr18's Nitto 555 extremes

Obviously if i would roadrace i would want to shrink the wheel diameter but what else would i need to run the turbo setup for a full race?

I do have a b&m oil cooler and fluidyne radiator.

 

Also with all the uberdata, Hondata, Aem managment talk. I am not that experianced at Tuning. I built the motor but I dont know where to go to learn the tuning or i would.

So i got some info on the uberdata and downloaded the software I think i would need. Does anyone know where to get the rest of the info such as the parts and intructions for chipping my ecu?

Hondata, I have somewhat researched a few times but have not yet been able to figure out the full price i would need with my setup. Everytime i was doing the research i got side tracked. 1998 integra gsr, i have whatever ecu comes with it if anyone would happen to already know what i need and the cost?

AEM, as was asked earlier in this thread i THOUGHT it was alot more but again i think the setup would be more than what is in this thread ($1000 i think was stated).

Yes im the idiot whom spent all this money on building a car than ran out when the important stuff came up So now im just trying to get it running without the worry of blowing it. which is how this thread came about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GForceInteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To maybe get some serious help and less flames (which is fine suit is on) im going to try to not ask many questions but only one. For starters i am OBVIOUSLY NOOB. I built the engine just got lost along the way on what i needed to get it running as far as fuel and such.

So my Question is:
With what is listed under this what would YOU do to finish this setup WITH the 18g turbo and what would be the highest boost you would run?????????????

1998 Integra gsr

BLOCK:
b18c1 Block
Stock crank
Eagle rods
JE 9.8:1 Pistons and rings
STR block guard

HEAD:
b18c1 Head
Stock valves
Crower stage 2 Cams
Crower double springs and titanium retainers
Crower cam gears

TURBO:
Greddy TD05H-18G Turbo w/internal wastegate
Greddy Type-S blow off valve
Apex-I A-VCR Electronic Boost Controller
Small front mount

FUEL:
B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM Fuel Rail
Holly 255 Fuel Pump
RC 550cc Fuel Injectors Saturated
Apex-i V-AFC II

IGNITION:
Denso Iridium Plugs 2 degrees colder gapped .26
MSD 6BTM control unit with boost retard
MSD Blaster SS Coil
MSD Modified Distributor Cap
MSD Super conductor Wires

Guys Please I'm looking for help on how to get this thing tuned, im wanting to goto a shop but need to know what i should have before I get there. Im 25 married and just had our first kid so i really want to make sure this is done right. Thanks to all whom DONT flame and tell me to search for ive spent so many hours reading hack threads and various threads on this.

Again the question/s is :
What would you do with this setup if it were your own???
What fuel setup would you keep or sell?
What would be your Max boost you would put to this motor?
With the parts you would suggest what settings would you put everything at before you hit the dyno?

I live in York, PA if anyone with some serious knowledge would be willing to help out.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can tell you from experience to lose the following items:

ignition
MSD 6BTM control unit with boost retard
MSD Blaster SS Coil
MSD Modified Distributor Cap
MSD Super conductor Wires

Go with stock ignition, stock plug wires, heat range 7 or 8 NGK's gapped between 0.028-0.020".

fuel
B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM Fuel Rail
Apex-i V-AFC II

Stock rail, fuel pressure regulator and lines.


If you are interested I am relatively close to you in PA. I tune Hondata, AEM, Haltech, DFI, Speedpro and PowerFC. I would be more than happy to have you stop by the shop and discuss your set-up, Pm me if you are interested. Keep everything as much OEM as possible. I have found the greatest reliability out of high hp Hondas with OEM parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1316130057 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No fuel pressure gauge or an electronic one. I've seen a 480hp XR4Ti burn to the ground because the FP gauge vibrated till it cracked the valve on the fuel rail.</TD></TR></TABLE> and how do you suggest he adjust the fuel pressure with the regulator you reccomend???

Landon

 

I am definitly going to find some time to get up there, but we have the OC show in 2 weeks and I have to get wifes rsx done. Your only alittle over an hour away so Im sure we'll be meeting soon.

Whats your Hours?

 

I'm at the shop everyday, pretty much all the time. Let me know when a good time would be for you and we can set something up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and how do you suggest he adjust the fuel pressure with the regulator you reccomend???

Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

With this:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1316130057 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> or an electronic one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Or (logically) if you're going to set the pressure and only refer to it when changing the pressure, then do so, but certainly don't leave it on the rail at all times. You're begging for a catastrophy.

 

oh, that makes sense, it read to me like your were saying no fuel pressure guage or electronic one. my bad....

Landon

 

No sweat.