vtecguy01

** Head **

Port and Polish
Crower valves springs and retainers
Crower cams
Evolution cam gears
Blox intake manfold
Skunk2 68mm throttle body
Supertech valves
Nology hit wires
STR fuel rail
B&M fuel regulator
DSM injectors

** Turbo Setup **

KRB log manifold
KRB Downpipe 2.5
Tial 38mm wastegate
Greddy Type-S BOV
Garrett Turbo
Precision intercooler

** Block**

Eagle Rods and Pistons
Port block
Knifed Crankshaft

** Tranny **

GSR Tranny
Jun flywheel
Exedy Stage 3 clutch


** Maybe NOS ** IDK lemme know

** Electronics **

HKS Turbo timer
HKS Boost Controller
Greddy E-Manage
Greddy Gauges

If i missed anything lemme know

vtecguy01

bump

HondaHead211

make sure you do your fuel system (fuel pump, injectors, fuel rail) adding more air with the turbo u need to add more fuel, that is what creates power, fuel. also make sure u run all of your oil lines correctly. other than that everything looks good, do you mind me asking what size turbo ur going with ....?

vtecguy01

t3

adseguy

How about this.....what is the goal for the car and what is the horsepower you are shooting for? Any straight t3 setup you prolly won't need to build up the bottom end. Also throw away your e-manage and go with a better system.

vtecguy01

i'm only running the T3 for a couple months so i can get used to turbo then i'm upgrading to a T3/T4 setup. i love the emange though it's a great system

tgreaves

Never heard of Eagle pistons..
Check out Ferrea valve, springs, retainers, ect..
Why not use CTR cams..
Get a real FPR like an Aeromotive or AEM..

What HP goal are you looking for? Using DSM injectors it must not be all that much, not enought to need a port and polished head anyway..

Greddy gauges are a waste of money, look into Stewart Warner gauges..

Wouldnt knife edge the crank..

Look into an Edelbrock intake manifold..

vtecguy01

i'm shooting to get around 200-250 horses

tgreaves

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecguy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm shooting to get around 200-250 horses</TD></TR></TABLE>

Scratch most of that stuff.. Stock head, valves, cams, ect..

Get the Aeromotive or and FPR, fuel rail..

DSM injectors should work fine, get bigger if you can find them..

That power range can be gotten eaisly with a totally stock block..

I got 200whp from a little junkyard T3 on a stock sohc..

Importordomestic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecguy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">** Head **

Port and Polish
Crower valves springs and retainers
Crower cams
Evolution cam gears
Blox intake manfold
Skunk2 68mm throttle body
Supertech valves
Nology hit wires
STR fuel rail
B&M fuel regulator
DSM injectors

** Turbo Setup **

KRB log manifold
KRB Downpipe 2.5
Tial 38mm wastegate
Greddy Type-S BOV
Garrett Turbo
Precision intercooler

** Block**

Eagle Rods and Pistons
Port block
Knifed Crankshaft

** Tranny **

GSR Tranny
Jun flywheel
Exedy Stage 3 clutch


** Maybe NOS ** IDK lemme know

** Electronics **

HKS Turbo timer
HKS Boost Controller
Greddy E-Manage
Greddy Gauges

If i missed anything lemme know</TD></TR></TABLE>

Head

- try to stick with the same manufacturer for the complete valvetrain - Crower makes good stuff

- it doesnt seem that you are aiming for insane HP and TQ number's (550+) so i suggest the crowere 403's the 404's will have to much valve lap, causing to much revision in the intake.

- have you decided on your custom angles for the valves? its hard on the machine shop just to throw a head at theam and say port and polish - i recommend 30-45-55 for the port job.

Turbo -

Block

- eagle rods are great! -make sure you get the 5/8 rod bolt's!!! do not get the 3/16
- never ran eagle pistons tho - suggest SRP/JE pistons 9.0.1 - 9.2.1 CR

- PORT BLOCK ??? - you mean blueprint? good idea - grinding away casting marks is good to free up oil drainage from the head. But it seems that you are not willing to spend the $$$ to fully blueprint the block EX: casting marks, line bore, sleving, balancing the pistons wrist pins, rods etc, etc.

- i recommed at-least having the entire rotating assembly balanced (crank, harmonic balancer, flywheel, pistons, rods, wrist pins. (berring life will increase dramatically)

- knifed crankshaft is a waste for FI, if you knife edge the crank you will loose alot of tq until the turbo fully spools. Also becuse of the less rotating mass, harmonic vibrations will go through the roof. there fore it is recommended that you run a 400$ fluidamper with a knifed crank. bottom line - if this is to be a daily driver you DO NOT WANT TO DO THIS!!

- suggest ARP main studs and ARP headstuds (at-least the head studs they are almost required for a FI setup)

Tranny - everything looks ok there

- i suggest if this car is to be daily driven and see alot of Highway driving to swap the GSR 5th gear for the LS integra 5th gear. it will lower crusing rpm's

NOS

- not in any way can i condone you runing this in this motor (not even a 25 shot) UNLESS you fully blueprint the bottom end EX: having it sleved - IF you do not have the motor sleved DO NOT RUN NOS + boost

Electronics

-HKS = good stuff
-Greddy e-manage - well get your flame suit on cause your gonna get hamared about that. If you were buying a kit and it came with it...i could see running it. But in your case your going to go out and straig up buy it. For the price you are gonig to pay for the E-manage and to have someone tune it for a "Jerry rig setup that will eventually bolw up the motor" you could have bought a Honda Ecu and have it chiped and tuned for a better longer lasting more HP motor.
-Greddy gages ok

vtecguy01

i've already built this though with all those parts,except for the bottom end,but that's what i'm planning on, how much HP should i be making

Importordomestic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecguy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've already built this though with all those parts,except for the bottom end,but that's what i'm planning on, how much HP should i be making</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why post up a thresd "is this ok" if you already have it built?

in answer to your question - the one you quoted out = maybe 280 hp
for the one i quoted = 300+ 400hp but it would blow if it wasnt sleved

vtecguy01

correction this is what i have already

KRB Manifold
Crower Turbo Cams
Tial 38mm Wastegate
HKS turbo timer
Evolution Cam Gears
Garrett T3 turbo
B&M FPR
Blox Intake Manifold
Greddy E-Manage

Importordomestic

but it all really depends on your turbo - a t3/t4 .57/.63 would hold out to 450hp and are

Importordomestic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecguy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correction this is what i have already

KRB Manifold
Crower Turbo Cams
Tial 38mm Wastegate
HKS turbo timer
Evolution Cam Gears
Garrett T3 turbo
B&M FPR
Blox Intake Manifold
Greddy E-Manage</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok your a part collector.. that is what i do until i have everything then i build.

what are the trims of your turbo?

Importordomestic

the e-manage is what is really going to hold you back in the HP numbers - i have never seen over 280 hp with a emanage

vtecguy01

i cant remember of the top of my head, but i think it's rated for 300whp

but i'm only running this one til the summer and go for a bigger one

Importordomestic

when you go bigger - upgrade the electronics section of your build

vtecguy01

to what?

Importordomestic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecguy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to what?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importordomestic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the price you are gonig to pay for the E-manage and to have someone tune it for a "Jerry rig setup that will eventually bolw up the motor" you could have bought a Honda Ecu and have it chiped and tuned for a better longer lasting more HP motor.
-Greddy gages ok</TD></TR></TABLE>

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecguy01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to what?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you need to just read a lot more. A completly stock engine with a small T3 will work just fine for your goals. If you have this setup already just get a good EMS (search), and larger injectors/intercooler/fuel pump/turbo and you will be good for 500HP. GL

EARLdaSQUIRREL

sell your cam gears, with those cams they wont do **** for you but look good lol, then use that money towards some good engine management