_Endless_

i know that these a/f gauges including the autometer i'm using are not accurate, nevertheless i like to know how the lights should behave.

i got an autometer a/f gauge and here's what i observed:
- when idling very long, it will go to the lean side and sometimes it will jump overboard when the idling is longer.

- whenever i decelerate during driving it will go to lean side momentarily then back to rich again. if i decelerate from a higher rpm it will go leaner or jump overboard again then comes back to rich side when the engine reach the idling rpm.

are these normal? on wot i don't experience any problem coz it stays on rich it's on idling and deceleration that's confusing me.

by the way, the o2 sensor is placed very near the flange of the downpipe so it's very near the turbine. i don't know if this mean anything.

any ideas?

MiraiZ

FYI...Autometer A/F meters are a complete waste of $$$..sell it and get an EGT!

silverEH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiraiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FYI...Autometer A/F meters are a complete waste of $$$..sell it and get an EGT!</TD></TR></TABLE>

i second that, my a/f gauge is a light show and that is about it

slowsi00

the light bounce all over the place

but they do have a purpose....

for instance if something happend to your fuel were you lost all of it

while you would be under wot the light normally goes to the green side or should go to that side. but if something happend where you lost fuel or not getting any fuel while accelerating the light will go to red.

thats if its hooked up right

for instance when i had a fmu i was driving down the highway when my fuel line from my fpr decided to burst which was fun. and the light went from green(good) and went all the way to red fast so i pulled over opened the hood and saw fuel squirtin at me!!!! so in that sense they are worth it


other wise they really just are a cool light
:

mskibbz-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Endless_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know that these a/f gauges including the autometer i'm using are not accurate, nevertheless i like to know how the lights should behave.

i got an autometer a/f gauge and here's what i observed:
- when idling very long, it will go to the lean side and sometimes it will jump overboard when the idling is longer.

- whenever i decelerate during driving it will go to lean side momentarily then back to rich again. if i decelerate from a higher rpm it will go leaner or jump overboard again then comes back to rich side when the engine reach the idling rpm.

are these normal? on wot i don't experience any problem coz it stays on rich it's on idling and deceleration that's confusing me.

by the way, the o2 sensor is placed very near the flange of the downpipe so it's very near the turbine. i don't know if this mean anything.

any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOT is all that matters when you use the Autometer A/F gauge... The bouncing around is normal off WOT because the ECU is constantly making adjustments to the mixture based on feedback from the O2 sensor. It would be better if that thing only had 2 lights on it, above and below ~stoich, less annoying

_Endless_

i understand that it's normal for the lights to jump around and how autometer is not an accurate a/f gauge. what i don't understand is, why does it go to lean every time i take my foot off the accelerator(decelerating)? i like to know if that is normal?

i have no problem when i step on the gas or doing wot coz it always go to rich side.

any ideas about the going to lean side whenever i decelerate?

K20 EG

i think that if that were off load it wont give you the correct readings in my expierence that what mine acted like

_Endless_

by the way, for fuel management i'm using the vafc hack & my o2 sensor is connected directly to the autometer a/f gauge. no ecu in between coz our SiR here doesn't come with an o2 sensor from the factory so i just hooked the ntk 4-wire o2 sensor directly to the a/f gauge. i don't know if these means anything to what's confusing me.

Dee

Get a NON-light show AF meter and you will have an awesome tuning tool. FJO, DIY wideband, and a couple other makers have affordable widebands. The best combo is EGT + AF meter. Any AF meter that taps into to the stock sensor is a waste of time and money.

turb

will hooking up the oxygen sensor to the blue wire on the vafc give a more accurate reading?

what's a good egt gauge?

mskibbz-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a NON-light show AF meter and you will have an awesome tuning tool. FJO, DIY wideband, and a couple other makers have affordable widebands. The best combo is EGT + AF meter. Any AF meter that taps into to the stock sensor is a waste of time and money. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly, I run the FJO it is bad ***... This graph from Hondata pretty much sums up how limited a narrowband sensor is



See how the wideband has a MUCH larger range where it is accurate, the narrowband voltage output has nearly no range and is only capable of detecting around stoichiometry very effectively. Away from stoich there is very little voltage change to reflect the different a/f ratios, so an a/f gauge has to try to intrepret the a/f off of those miniscule changes in voltage and that will not be accurate at all. You can plug in whatever kind of gauge you want, it won't change your narrowband sensor into something accurate. You can know if you are ABOVE or BELOW stoich, but I wouldn't plan on tuning with it you could just use it as an oh-**** tool, like oh **** my fuel line just came off...

RGAZ

To answer your question,

Yes, what you see is normal. At idle it will sit then jump and sit then jump. your decelerate is fine too.

As was said it is really only helpful at WOT or "open loop" mode. Other wise the ECu is constantly changing the fueling and it jumps around.

I agree, its tuning abilities are useless, but as a safety device it is great. When my crappy FMu started sticking on me, it told me right away. it also told me that my fuel pump couldn't keep up. So it is very valuable for simple things.

Randy