what is the normal operating temperature on your hondas in the summer...

idle
cruising

also how hot can u go before something could fail?

i searched but i didnt find anything useful so i though id make this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the normal operating temperature on your hondas in the summer...

idle
cruising

also how hot can u go before something could fail?

i searched but i didnt find anything useful so i though id make this. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine goes no higher than 196.
Even running it hard.

 

If the stock temp gauge gets to halfway your starting to overheat. Mine stays a little to the left which equals to 190-199 during cruising and sitting in traffic it sometimes climbs to 219. This is in 90F+ weather, at night (60F) it never goes over 200 and that is boosting the hell out of it. I had overheating issues before this is on a pwr civic radiator, 12" slimfan, and JR 180F thermostat.

I think once you hit 220+ your going to be at or over overhalfway on the stock gauge and you better throw the heater on full and hope it doesn't get any higher.

 

oe coolant gauge id get nervous over halfway and turn the car off if its creeps much past 3/4. ive driven cars at over 3/4 coolant and never had a problem, but whatever.

oil temp - my car usually runs at between 180-210 F, but ive had it over 230 before. i think oil starts to break down somewhere just shy of 300F..

 

Anything over 210 is pushing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.Death &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anything over 210 is pushing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

pushing what?

 

blowin your headgasket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1Quikgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">blowin your headgasket </TD></TR></TABLE>


overheating causes blown head gaskets? the amount of area that the coolant is pushing on is nothing.. maybe a few mm. how would it blow it.

 

I wouldn't feel to comfy at anything over 210.

My car on average runs at 180-185 cruising and on really hot days will reach 200 sitting in traffic... but never goes higher than that.

I have a 24x12x4 PWR intercooler and entirely stock cooling system.

 

i overheat in traffic only when its 100 degrees outside in Cali. Im running a small 8 inch. Fan. I just purchase 12 inch pro form . Hopefully it will solve the problem. I will be running it full time

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


overheating causes blown head gaskets? the amount of area that the coolant is pushing on is nothing.. maybe a few mm. how would it blow it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

overheating causes the head to warp. When the head warls coolant easily gets pushed past the head gasket causing the collant system to heat up more causing more warpage and eventually the gasket will blow....along with you head.

 

180-185 is where my thermostat opens, 195-200 in traffic and it would slowly creep to 210 in traffic on hot days then i would let it cool off.

on cool nights it was always 180-185.

When i first got the car done, i wasnt watching the gauge and i never had a problem before and it hit 250+, blew the headgasket and warped the head. I wouldnt let it get over 220 for ANY reason, just pull over and let it cool.

Also my sensor was in the stock location my cluster didnt function.

 

good stuff guys

 

my ******* half rad is running like 210 after my engine bay is all warmed up.. even on the highway in like 60f weather..

u guys think its the big fmic blocking the radiator? how do i solve this..

EF

 

My OEM thermostat was running ~180ish when it was warmed up, and actually dropped to almost 170 each time it was being run on the dyno. I think its from the ceramic insulation I'm using - stock fan, old OEM copper rad, and 1/2" thick 1800F ceramic insulation over the mani, turbine, and DP.

If you don't have an AC condensor, you should really make some sort of block-off plate for it so the air is forced into the radiator.

 

yeah i know i need a block off plate.. just havent gotten around to it

 

Im running a pwr 1/2 rad and a 12in fan that comes with the peakboost kits. During my tuning session my tuner (when we were doing some partial throttle tuning on the road) said my temps got to a lil over 200 so he changed the rad fan to come on at 180 just to be safe....... havent had any problems over heating yet, and weve had a few 90+ degree days here in jersey so far.