only with good management

 

OK So the 14b isn't too much for a d16 you think. The thing is I was only planning on going with the vafc/dsm 450cc injector combo. Would that be adequate for 10psi on the 14b?

 

a 14b is a small turbo i have a t3/t4 on my sohc. i would not push the motor with out being dyno turned. our motors are weak. if you have a back up go for it, if you dont your playing with fire. but that is just me. good luck if you make it with the vafc

 

The 14b only pushes out 10-12 psi on an Eclipse, but the wastegate is sprung for 7-8psi, I'll try to find more info. Ther's stuff on this at http://www.homemadeturbo.com and http://www.dsmtalk.com

 

hmm... maybe the eclipses boosted 10-12 by a factory EBC or something. oh well try to find out for sure. I'll ask some DSM guys as well.

 

I have know people that have done the washer trick. It worked for them.

If you try this, I'm sure it will work.

MAKE SURE YOU KNOW what boost the turbo is going to be runnning before you do anything though.

I personally have a T-25 and it runs 10psi stock for me. (?)

If you can get the tunning squared a way, then you should have no worries with 10psi!!

Just look at my sig

 

Don't worry I called TEC today. They said that all I'd need to do is get a new canister with a lower spring. A new canister w/ a 6psi spring is like $63 so no biggy. I'm gonna be using DSM 450cc's and a VAFC for fuel for now. I've seen people run like 10psi using this and safely also but I'm not pushing it. I figure I'll just run 6psi till i get hondata 2b, then a boost controller, then I'd be able to run more boost safely.

 

i knew it would be no big deal

65 still seems alot tho. but cheaper than an external wg

 

my thoughts exactly. but it's better than not spending it and boosting my motor to an early death

 

Some people just blow me away... The 14b is small? for a factory turbo it is one of the largest.. It flows 415cfm's @ 15psi.. The can easily do 325hp.. much more then your stock little d-series can even handle.. I have built 7 setups using DSM turbos from t-25's to 14b's. They are great turbos. The Stock 1g/2g DSM's are controlled by an electronic boost controler by the ECM which raises it around 11psi (when fully warmed up) If you were to hook a direct source of boost (off the compressor) directly to the wastegate actuator, you will achieve around 7-8psi. An easy way to tell when a turbo opens is with a simple vacuum/hand pump with a gauge.

Now about lowering the boost even more then that.. Their are a few other methods you can do. You can lengthing the actuator rod (like someone said) but he is correct, it will be very sluggish, and I dont like messing with the arm either. Another method is completly taking the actuator off, and putting a simple carb return spring holding tension against the wastegate flapper. You may say (what the ****?) but it works probably better then most actuators, in fact we saw an increase of spool time when doing this, the spring keeps the flapper shut until boost pushes the flapper open. I have made a bunch of springs 4-8psi, They hold very strong and do not fluctuate..

Jeff Frank
http://www.homemadeturbo.com

 

When you add a carb spring in conjunction with the stock wastegate, it will increase boost. When you add washers it will increase boost. Both of these operations make it HARDER to open the gate....creating more boost, not decreasing it. The further you pull the wastegate arm...the more boost you have. I have used both of these methods.

The DSM's used a wastegate restrictor solenoid in stock trim. This solenoid modified the boost signal, in turn making the turbo create more boost until it reaches the desired boost to open the gate. DSM guys can up their boost by pulling a little plastic washer/resitrictor out of the solenoid. This creates 2 more psi. However, when the wastegate restrictor solenoid is not used and the boost signal is sent from the compressor directly to the wastegate, it will only read 7-8 psi because that is what the stock spring is set at. Here is a diagram of the WG RS
http://www.jumptronix.com/2g_go_fast...rictionFAQ.htm

All you have to do is not use this solenoid.

Hope someone is listening.

SAS

 

thanks for the info but that site is for 2G dsm's... those used the T-25, not the 14B. Might be the same though. In anycase, I've found a solution if no one is sure (i'm hearing no... it's 10-11psi from a few and no... it's 7-8 but the solenoid thingy... from another few). I called TEC and they said that I could just relpace the wastegate canister for $63 w/ a 6psi springed wastegate canister. Thanks anyway. I'll still be researching it anyway. Might go ask a couple DSM boards.

 

"adding washer's will increase boost"

Umm do you even know what your talking about??

the washer's are pushing the wastegate CLOSER to the valve thus DECREASING the pressure needed to open the gate thus LOWER BOOST.

Just depends on which side the wastegate flange is mounted. At least on a T-25 it is on the turbine side. I can't say for a 14B though.

 

Maybe you didnt read my post all the way? Read it again.. I said remove the wastegate actuator first, then install a carb return spring. The spring will control the boost, it will lower it to whatever the tension is. I have used this on many of my kits.. Mainly on this car.



Hope someone was listening that time.

Jeff Frank

 

A spring alone won't open all at one time like the wastegate will. I have tried doing that too. Spoolup was not better. Sorry, I thought you meant that you were using a spring and actuator togehter. I did read the whole post though....just didn't realize that is what you meant. All of the turbos that I have used the washer trick on.. had the WG mounting flange on the outside, which it increases boost....I should have realized what you meant considering I was looking at a 14b like a few days ago.

"Hope someone was listening that time."-Smart ***.....get a grip you guys, just because someone can't understand you, you have to get on their case? Doesn't make sense.

 

As you can see their is a small carb return spring mounted to the wastegate flapper, The spring is then tensioned to somewhere on the block. When the turbo starts to spool up, it pushs air against the wastegate flapper opening it and releasing pressure. The stronger the tension, the more boost, the lesser tension the lesser amount of boost. Why would their be a quicker spool time? when you first get on it, the wastegate is entirely shut with the spring. With a wastegate actuator the rod starts slowly opening to its desired spring rate. I have also found my method very odd, but works very well...

Jeff


[Modified by AbaZ, 8:48 PM 5/22/2002]

 

How does the extreme heat affect the spring's performance? Or does it? Seems like it would lose tension at high temp.

 

We ran the same spring for almost a year.. it had never changed from 6 psi...

Jeff

 

jeff whats up ? when is ur site gona be updated ? whos civic is that ? hows the CRX running ? when you taking it to Pacific Raceways ?

 

could you some how get a closer pic of the spring setup?

Look's kind of interesting.

Thanks

 

hey bryson..how was the lag of your friends set up by using washers? using washers woul be just like lengthening the arm correct?

 

Yup! All your doing is moving it closer so It opens earlier with the boost.

 

Dont know when i will be heading back to PR, My car is all apart, all my turbo stuff is on ebay right now, still trying to get my full race setup installed.

The Turbo hatch is currently dead right now, I need to go over and give him a hand putting the head back on.

No I dont have any closer pics with the spring setup.

Sorry
Jeff