TeH PLAYA

I have the s200b with the launch and nitrous controls. Car is an SC EM1.

I recently went to the track and when I wanted to set my lauch rpm via the push-button, it failed to remember the desired set rpm. I used hondata's instructions to do it--which is how i've been doing it since i got this unit a couple years ago.

I checked the wires to the ecu, clutch switch and blue box and everything is secure. The CEL does flash when I push the button once, for launch rpm. I rev to the desired rpm and tap the break pedal. The CEL stops flashing and that's supposed to be it. But once I try and see if the launch rpm is set it does not remember the rpm. And yes I have the clutch pushed down. I tried it in gear and out of gear, no luck. And yea I'm going ZERO mph.

Also the full throttle shift doesn't work anymore. I found that out going down the 1/4. I don't have a laptop so I can't get into the ROM software. Could you completely disable the launch controls and full-throttle shift via the ROM software so that you can't set the rpm's via the push-button anymore? I recently got the car dynoed and maybe it got disabled accidentaly.

I searched and found topics on how car's with hondata are rev-limited due to the clutch switch being sensitive. This is not the issue here, basically the ecu/hondata can't remember the rpm's I set for launch and full throttle shift.

Any ideas?

TeH PLAYA

somebody has to have some input

bump

Finland

seems as if the features were accidentally disabled. Have your tuner check it out.

mrbsponge

dont use the hondata 2 step on a forced induction motor, unless you really like it disassembled.

hondata 2 step is a fuel cut revlimiter you can tell by how slow it sounds, well with the absence of fuel and you trying to boost, you kinda get the idea right!?

msd uses an ignition cut limiter which lets fuel build up in the cylinder and not go lean, this is where some of boost(for turbos) comes from

TeH PLAYA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont use the hondata 2 step on a forced induction motor, unless you really like it disassembled.

hondata 2 step is a fuel cut revlimiter you can tell by how slow it sounds, well with the absence of fuel and you trying to boost, you kinda get the idea right!?

msd uses an ignition cut limiter which lets fuel build up in the cylinder and not go lean, this is where some of boost(for turbos) comes from</TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate your feedback and concern. I'm aware of how the Hondata 2 step works. That's not what I'm asking here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boondock Saint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seems as if the features were accidentally disabled. Have your tuner check it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate your feedback. I'm having an appointment with my tuner on Thursday. Hopefully he can see what's going on.

bump

flip1199

if i remember correctly arent u supposed to set it to what ever you want then tap the brake then shut the car off to set it. try shutting the car off and see if that work. sorry it's been a while since i've done it myself and i cant find my directions.

TeH PLAYA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flip1199 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i remember correctly arent u supposed to set it to what ever you want then tap the brake then shut the car off to set it. try shutting the car off and see if that work. sorry it's been a while since i've done it myself and i cant find my directions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried that and it still did not work. There's a video on the hondata website with that guy in the 92-95 Civic showing how to do it. I did it the same way as in the video. No luck.

TeH PLAYA

bump

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont use the hondata 2 step on a forced induction motor, unless you really like it disassembled.

hondata 2 step is a fuel cut revlimiter you can tell by how slow it sounds, well with the absence of fuel and you trying to boost, you kinda get the idea right!?

msd uses an ignition cut limiter which lets fuel build up in the cylinder and not go lean, this is where some of boost(for turbos) comes from</TD></TR></TABLE>
is this true that it will dangerously lean you out using a fuel cut 2 step with boost? I've used uberdata's plenty of times without a problem.

raene

I really don't think it's an issue because no fuel is not equal to lean. It means no fuel. For instance, I'm running 100psi in the cylinders during a leakdown, am I lean? No. It's only lean if there's *combustion*... with no fuel, no combustion.

Sorry to the original poster, don't have an answer to your question...

Spunkster

IT sounds like your clutch swith may not be workgin ....i would recommend using a multimeter and check continuity with the clutch pushe din and released...if it does not change, you have a bad switch.

TeH PLAYA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spunkster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IT sounds like your clutch swith may not be workgin ....i would recommend using a multimeter and check continuity with the clutch pushe din and released...if it does not change, you have a bad switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea when I was checking my connections I thought about it being the clutch switch going bad. However, I didnt have a multimeter on hand so I couldn't really check for continuity. Once I ask my friend to borrow his I'm gonna check it again.

bump

mrbsponge

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really don't think it's an issue because no fuel is not equal to lean. It means no fuel. For instance, I'm running 100psi in the cylinders during a leakdown, am I lean? No. It's only lean if there's *combustion*... with no fuel, no combustion.

Sorry to the original poster, don't have an answer to your question...</TD></TR></TABLE>

it actually is and has become a serious issue for turbo powered race cars and hondata, ask if ANY of these actually fast cars are running the hondata 2 step, and you will see most of them run digital 6s or 7s by MSD, because it is a much faster, more accurate way of 2 stepping. and to think that ther is no fuel entering the cylinders???? where did that come from, watch the boost gauge bro. even if you hit 4 or 5 psi, its still air, and hondata is cutting fuel considerably, watch EGTs if you have a gauge, its awful bro

raene

I don't disagree the soft rev limit is a better way to do things, but I'm not at all surprised that you see high EGTs during FTL. After all the thermocouple takes a little bit of time to cool off, and it won't cool appreciably between times when you're bouncing off the limiter, and it will heat continually from the boost-fueled combustion.

I'd expect it to reach peak EGTs identical to those experienced under 5psi of constant boost, actually. If it ends up that it reaches higher than that, obviously there's some lean burning going on that I wouldn't have expected I'd expect the soft rev limited devices to produce lower overall EGTs due to the probe being wetted from the uncombusted fuel in much the same way that IATs drop drastically during water injection because of the probe being cooled from water condensation.

Besides, EGTs are only telling part of the story in the manifold, and it's the chamber events that matter.

As for why the pro racers use soft limits, well, I would expect that because the FTL feature uses a hard rev limit, half the time - more than that actually - the revs are actually cut completely, so if you happen to launch during the time that the revs are cut, you're launching based on engine inertia only until the limiter disengages! So you get a &gt;50% chance of launching with your engine effectively off.

I don't know much more than that though, and I don't have an EGT yet, so if I'm wrong, I'm wrong, just saying what I *think*

TeH PLAYA

thanks to all of you for your time.

but fock it.

couldn't get my hands on a multimeter and nobody stocks this clutch switch for me to swap. So I just took out the switch all together and tucked away the wire.

I'll trust my right foot as my launch freakin' control.

crew08 (girlygirlracer)

ttt

i need help as well.
its set to 4500 for launch. i can't reset it tried but still no go. i tried static and dynamic. doesn't seem like it recognizes when i tap on the brake pedal. button switch works when i press it. goes through 1-5 but tap on brakes doesn't change anything. tap brakes but cell still flashes same number all the time.

i checked the pin d2 which is brake switch
it shows voltage everytime i step on the brake. no volts when not touched.
could it be ecu? but everything else works but also i cant reset it to defaults. which launch it 3k. tried holding switch and turn on but still 4500launch.