Hondata 4 bar Map sensor?
Same here but that ugly little map sensor sticks out when left on the throttle body. I got a adapter for its place and want to use that to run vac.
Im bringing this back fomr the dead for the simple fact that Im not getting the help I need from Hondata. My 4 bar DOES NOT read correct boost and Im sure all the people that's having this issue are not crazy. When I hit 9lbs the hondata 4 bar only reads 4 to 5 lbs of boost in the hondata S300. I had NO issues with the GM 3bar I was using. My car went from 11.5 AFRs from 1lb of boost to 17AFRs at 9lbs of boost. Iv'e tried tuning and tuning with no positive results. I know what someone will say, "you need to tune your car!" I was running over 20lbs of boost on the GM 3bar no problem self tuned. Also, I datalogged with the S300 and with my zeitronix software with the MAP sensor voltage readout. As the boost rises on the Zeitronix readout, the MAP sensor voltage fails to rise and it just sits at 1.39Volts. The vaccuum reads perfect, but it's just something about the boost area that's not reading right. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also I was wondering if Omni tests their MAP sensors on boosted vehicles also? Im looking for any help I can get. Thanks!
First off i would like to say sorry to anyone that has had an issue with the omnipower 4bar map sensor. WHen we first built the sensor we used a silicon based adhesive that worked flawlessly in testing and had no problems holding over 80 PSI. we didnt make very many sensors with the silicon adhesive while waiting for the delivery of our specialized plastic adhesive. the easiest way to tell is that the silicone based sensor will have no rivets and a logo that is molded into the plastic. if anyone has the sensor with no rivets and molded logo we can update it for you at no charge just simply send it back and we will update it and send it back to you no questions asked. all sensors with rivets and or a laser etched logo have the current specialized adhesive and will provide a lifetime of trouble free use.
Omnipower MAP sensors are built in house and assembled with a custom made 200 PSI NASA/Military approved Aerospace pastic adhesive. Because we build our own sensors we are able to offer a lifetime replacement warranty, if for any reason a problem should arise. We also offer technical support, voltage formulas and calibration info for all sensors we manufacture. Our OEM replacement style sensors offer enthusiasts the easiest possible solution for MAP sensor upgrades while allowing a stock look, but nearly unlimited boost capability. Each sensor comes with a new viton O-ring (for applications that use O-rings). The internal sensor features temperature induced resistance compensation in order to provide the most stable voltage signal to the ECM for consistent fuel and spark rendering over a wide temperature range.
Omnipower MAP sensors are built in house and assembled with a custom made 200 PSI NASA/Military approved Aerospace pastic adhesive. Because we build our own sensors we are able to offer a lifetime replacement warranty, if for any reason a problem should arise. We also offer technical support, voltage formulas and calibration info for all sensors we manufacture. Our OEM replacement style sensors offer enthusiasts the easiest possible solution for MAP sensor upgrades while allowing a stock look, but nearly unlimited boost capability. Each sensor comes with a new viton O-ring (for applications that use O-rings). The internal sensor features temperature induced resistance compensation in order to provide the most stable voltage signal to the ECM for consistent fuel and spark rendering over a wide temperature range.
omni, I have one that says hondata on it. i'm not sure if its a silicone one or not. it looks like it has a metal sleeve where the screw goes and has "hondata" written on it.
I can vouch for the new breed taking a shitload of pressure. I was testing one, and I forgot to turn the compressor down - from ~120psi. My brother had turned it up for the impact gun after he put on Omni LCA's, ironicly.
Needless to say didn't break. The rivets are a nice touch to make it more stock-like.
Only thing I'd steer people away from is buying from Hondata. I'd rather deal with Omniman over a Hondata rep, he's a great guy.
Needless to say didn't break. The rivets are a nice touch to make it more stock-like.Only thing I'd steer people away from is buying from Hondata. I'd rather deal with Omniman over a Hondata rep, he's a great guy.
How easy is installing the 4 bar compared to the 3 bar?
Is the wiring the same? I mean I hear the 4 bar does have a "plug and play" but I can't find any other posts about it.
Is it worth to buy the 4 bar if it's easier to install?
Is the wiring the same? I mean I hear the 4 bar does have a "plug and play" but I can't find any other posts about it.
Is it worth to buy the 4 bar if it's easier to install?
let me ask you this.
Do you have a screw driver-phillips. If the answer is yes, then keep reading
Do you have a thumb and an pointer finger. if the answer is yes, then keep reading
Can you remove a sensor plug with the 2 digits i just mentioned, if yes keep reading
if you can unscrew phillips screws pull up a stock sensor replace an o ring and re install it the same way, you can do it.
IT'S PLUG AND PLAY MEANING NO WIRING.
Do you have a screw driver-phillips. If the answer is yes, then keep reading
Do you have a thumb and an pointer finger. if the answer is yes, then keep reading
Can you remove a sensor plug with the 2 digits i just mentioned, if yes keep reading
if you can unscrew phillips screws pull up a stock sensor replace an o ring and re install it the same way, you can do it.
IT'S PLUG AND PLAY MEANING NO WIRING.
Last edited by ahobbs; Apr 1, 2009 at 03:09 PM.
let me ask you this.
Do you have a screw driver-phillips. If the answer is you then keep reading
Do you have a thumb and an pointer finger. if the answer is yes, then keep reading
Can you remove a sensor plug with the 2 digits i just mentioned, i yes keep reading
if you can unscrew phillips screws pull up a stock sensor replace an o ring and re install it the same way, you can do it.
IT'S PLUG AND PLAY MEANING NO WIRING.
Do you have a screw driver-phillips. If the answer is you then keep reading
Do you have a thumb and an pointer finger. if the answer is yes, then keep reading
Can you remove a sensor plug with the 2 digits i just mentioned, i yes keep reading
if you can unscrew phillips screws pull up a stock sensor replace an o ring and re install it the same way, you can do it.
IT'S PLUG AND PLAY MEANING NO WIRING.
I sell and use ALOT of the 4 bar map sensors and we have had an issue with only one piece and that was on a car i was personally tuning where the throttle body screws were the factory map sensor went were stripped and i ran the map sensor to a vacuum line just to get the tune up finished and it blew the sensor apart half way through the tune. Since then (about a year and half ago) i have never had any issues. It is really nice since it is plug and play.
Good to know that the sensors have all been updated. I'm still debating whether I want to just get a Motorola 2.5 or get the 4 bar. I'll only be seeing 15psi and less with my current setup. Unless there is something really good about the 4 bar which leads to easier tuning and etc besides the plug n' play feature.
Im bringing this back fomr the dead for the simple fact that Im not getting the help I need from Hondata. My 4 bar DOES NOT read correct boost and Im sure all the people that's having this issue are not crazy. When I hit 9lbs the hondata 4 bar only reads 4 to 5 lbs of boost in the hondata S300. I had NO issues with the GM 3bar I was using. My car went from 11.5 AFRs from 1lb of boost to 17AFRs at 9lbs of boost. Iv'e tried tuning and tuning with no positive results. I know what someone will say, "you need to tune your car!" I was running over 20lbs of boost on the GM 3bar no problem self tuned. Also, I datalogged with the S300 and with my zeitronix software with the MAP sensor voltage readout. As the boost rises on the Zeitronix readout, the MAP sensor voltage fails to rise and it just sits at 1.39Volts. The vaccuum reads perfect, but it's just something about the boost area that's not reading right. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also I was wondering if Omni tests their MAP sensors on boosted vehicles also? Im looking for any help I can get. Thanks!
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