turbo_racer

alot of people are running turbo with stock engine 10.1 compression and properly tuned the stock puts out enough power to run 12's. If i did a build block (sleeves, forge piston,forge rods) with 10.1 compression and head work( port and polish with new vavle train)and a stand alone for tunning, will I be able to achieve 400hp or run at least 11's in the 1/4 mile and still be safe for daily driven. Which turbo set up will make the best power band. Not just high end but low ,mid, and top end.

beepy

A car that can run 11's isn't safe on the street. Period.

turbo_racer

any one? honda techs? anyone who's familiar with force inductions please comment.

turbo_racer

what do you mean it aint safe? people are driving 9 an 10 second hot rods on the street. Please dont reply if you don't know what your talking about. I want people who understand force inductions to answer only.

MrBui

its the people driving the cars that arent safe...hell 18 second cars can be just as dangerous...

beepy

Do you know what an 11-second car is like? Let alone a 9 or 10-second car? This isn't TF&TF we're talking about.

An 11-second car has so much power that it needs slicks and a racing clutch. That on the street means bad news. Switching to DOT radials with that much power is also a recipe for disaster.

RudeLude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know what an 11-second car is like? Let alone a 9 or 10-second car? This isn't TF&TF we're talking about.

An 11-second car has so much power that it needs slicks and a racing clutch. That on the street means bad news. Switching to DOT radials with that much power is also a recipe for disaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no offence to u bro, but any car is only as fast as u drive it. u can drive a mclaren 25mph all u want, but its still a 210+mph car. u can drive a 8 sec honda on donuts anywhere u like.

turbo_racer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RudeLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no offence to u bro, but any car is only as fast as u drive it. u can drive a mclaren 25mph all u want, but its still a 210+mph car. u can drive a 8 sec honda on donuts anywhere u like.</TD></TR></TABLE> exactly

turbo_racer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know what an 11-second car is like? Let alone a 9 or 10-second car? This isn't TF&TF we're talking about.

An 11-second car has so much power that it needs slicks and a racing clutch. That on the street means bad news. Switching to DOT radials with that much power is also a recipe for disaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm talking about reliability on the street. You can a fast car but it's how you drive that makes the car safe or dangerous.

RudeLude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo_racer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm talking about reliability on the street. You can a fast car but it's how you drive that makes the car safe or dangerous.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just get it tuned properly bro, it should be reliable (running wise) once tuned, if u beat up on it on the streets, or when u beat up on it on the track, u could break something, but once u have it tuned right, u should be fine. just take ur time on the streets.

HugePistons

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know what an 11-second car is like? Let alone a 9 or 10-second car? This isn't TF&TF we're talking about.

An 11-second car has so much power that it needs slicks and a racing clutch. That on the street means bad news. Switching to DOT radials with that much power is also a recipe for disaster.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry buddy I drive a 415whp on pump for my DAILY DRIVER! civic hatch with NO problems!!!! so take back your statement or be called dumb as **** by me!
IM sure others can back me on this!

BTW do you have a 11sec car? I dont think you do.

adictionbass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HugePistons &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry buddy I drive a 415whp on pump for my DAILY DRIVER! civic hatch with NO problems!!!! so take back your statement or be called dumb as **** by me!
IM sure others can back me on this!

BTW do you have a 11sec car? I dont think you do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

MrBui

you mean 2f2f

beepy

No, I don't have an 11-second car. The fastest car I've owned made low 12's. That was my 1979 Camaro, and it was borderline street legal. The amount of power to go faster than this goes up exponentially. 11-second daily driver? Street legal? Doubtful. 400+ whp driven on the street with no problems? Maybe if you only make upwards of 230 hp up to 7000 RPM like many of the big number cars do. 10 or 9-second daily driver? Impossible.

Please, show me a Honda that runs 11's (and not 11.999) in the 1/4, and is safe and legal on the street without having to completely detune the car.

liam821

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by n20need4vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the people driving the cars that arent safe...hell 18 second cars can be just as dangerous...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn right!

There is lots of 10 and 11 second hondas running around on the street, maybe of them on this board. Daily driven even. A car does not make itself dangerous just because its fast, its the driver who does stupid things in a fast car thats unsafe.

Look at the newer ford mustang cobras. Swap on a pully and exhaust and that thing can crack 11s. They sell that to anybody that comes along.

Even a 9 second honda can be driven slowly and safely. Its not like we drive at WOT all the time.

You drive like a dumbshit and crash dont blame the car, blame the driver.

liam

beepy

BTW, according to C&D, the 2005 Ford Mustang Cobra coupe has the following performance stats:

Zero to 60 mph 5.3–7.5 sec
Standing 1/4-mile 14.1–15.5 sec
Top speed (governor limited) 118–150 mph

Pulleys and exhaust into the 11's? Must be some killer bolt-ons.

The MacLaren F1 also doesn't apply. This is a completely different kind of car. It is designed for high-speed safety. A FE FWD car is not.

HugePistons

Are you for real dude?????

on race gas my car dose 10s!!! and I drive it to and from work every day! and it is a civic! I race it on the street every weekend with some of the fastest cars around and have NO problem driving it!!!! it feels like a B16 swap untill you grt on it!

but how the **** whould you know any way if you dont own one??
once again you are a dumd **** sorry but you dont got a clue!!

HugePistons

you dont know **** about CARS thats for sure!

adictionbass

another difference here is that he (beeby) had a heavy *** rear-wheel drive camaro that probably had a torque curve that would dwarf a honda. With a 400+ hp 1.8-2.0 liter turbo motor, your right, we dont get that kind of power until ~4000 rpms, which you dont have to be at on the street. Not to mention EBCs that let us go from 20+psi to 8 psi and 400+ to 200hp in an instant. Hell, leve the boost at 20psi and just dont mash the pedal. Wouldnt be much different then driving a nice little gsr motor around

ITRNoah

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A car that can run 11's isn't safe on the street. Period.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This dude dont no ****

HugePistons

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">another difference here is that he (beeby) had a heavy *** rear-wheel drive camaro that probably had a torque curve that would dwarf a honda. With a 400+ hp 1.8-2.0 liter turbo motor, your right, we dont get that kind of power until ~4000 rpms, which you dont have to be at on the street. Not to mention EBCs that let us go from 20+psi to 8 psi and 400+ to 200hp in an instant. Hell, leve the boost at 20psi and just dont mash the pedal. Wouldnt be much different then driving a nice little gsr motor around </TD></TR></TABLE>
I leave my settings on 18lb for the street all day because if there is a viper I need to take down it is only a foot snap away.
this dude is to ignorant for his own good I expected this from LS1.com but not here I do to much proving to retards like this on the street. thats how I make that money. off of retards like this!!!

ITRNoah

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, I don't have an 11-second car. The fastest car I've owned made low 12's. That was my 1979 Camaro, and it was borderline street legal. The amount of power to go faster than this goes up exponentially. 11-second daily driver? Street legal? Doubtful. 400+ whp driven on the street with no problems? Maybe if you only make upwards of 230 hp up to 7000 RPM like many of the big number cars do. 10 or 9-second daily driver? Impossible.

Please, show me a Honda that runs 11's (and not 11.999) in the 1/4, and is safe and legal on the street without having to completely detune the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
**** come to MN we can show you and on pump gas drives like stock untill you floor it is called tunning not fmu with mising link with a vafc we can drive them year round in the winter too. you really dont know **** and what do you have that makes you know so much?

beepy

I see a lot of talking and no proof.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I leave my settings on 18lb for the street all day because if there is a viper I need to take down it is only a foot snap away.
this dude is to ignorant for his own good I expected this from LS1.com but not here I do to much proving to retards like this on the street. thats how I make that money. off of retards like this!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on race gas my car dose 10s!!! and I drive it to and from work every day! and it is a civic! I race it on the street every weekend with some of the fastest cars around and have NO problem driving it!!!! it feels like a B16 swap untill you grt on it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

10's in the 1/8th mile I would believe. The funny thing is that I am not ignorant. In fact, here's another tidbit from C&D for you:

Dodge Viper SRT-10:
Zero to 60 mph: 3.7 sec
Zero to 100 mph: 9.2 sec
Standing 1/4-mile: 11.8 sec @ 123 mph
Top speed (drag limited): 193 mph

So you are beating the top-rated Viper by almost 2 seconds? I wouldn't even consider the SRT-10 safe for the street. The car has been known to get squirrely, and it was designed for it. I'll just let your obviously refined education speak for itself.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your right, we dont get that kind of power until ~4000 rpms, which you dont have to be at on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you really keep the car below 4000 RPM on the street to avoid overpowering it? Making no boost, the torqueband is just too small to keep it there all the time. Regardless, it still isn't safe. If you have 500hp on tap, and you have to react to an emergency, lo and behold, you step on the gas and make the problem worse.

adictionbass

In an emergency you:

a) Slam on the brakes and panic

b) Accelerate to avoid the situation

c) Slow down and asses the situation

d) Swirve from left to right in hopes of avoiding an accident

adictionbass

Im sorry i cant grasp your point. Yes you are correct: if you have a rearwheel drive torque monster that has a hard time staying on the road when its dry, let alone raining or snowing.
The only danger behind contollable power is the person controlling it.