Manley weighs the big end and little end of each rod, as well as the rod as a whole. they then try to package a set of rods with similar weights so the rotating assembly stays as balanced as possible.

the weights are listed on the rods themselves as well. if you look at all four you'll notice the total weights are fairly close to each other.

also be sure to port the intake manifold inlet to match the diameter of whatever throttle body you decide on. if you don't do this then running a larger tb becomes useless as the manifold will only flow as much air as the inlet allows.

ideally you want the throttle body to be the same size as the intercooler piping. no larger than 70mm for a street car imo. xenocron has a deal on 68mm and 70mm throttle bodies, around 75 dollars I think. nice units too

 

Well! I just got home from work it 11:45 p.m. and it has been raining all day, walk up to my back yard door step found that my parts have arrive thanks to the courtesy of ups for taking the effort to cover them in plastic bag to keep them dry, them parts was sitting outside for six hour total, anyway goods news is the parts have arrive, bad news is all the fitting are not going to work as I intend it to, guess it back to map performance tomorrow for some exchange.

 

My apology for the weird post above this stupid app ain't working right with my new phone should of just stick with prepaid.

 

in for updates.

 

Well got up early today and headed to map performance to get all my fuel fitting set right, seem this time it will all work out thanks to Ian and Adam at map really good customer service.

The new setup! well again!! at least most of it of what was in stock.


While I was their I decide to ditch the aem fuel pressure regulator and opt for a more better diagram one so I went with an external fuelab pressure regulator, although I don't know if this is true or not but I was told the aem won't hold high pressure with high hp car.


Some of the new swivel straight, 90°, 45° fitting and also pick up 2 30 amp relay for the fuel pump.


After numerous reading and research I contemplate on it and decide to not go the single Walbro 450 route instead I went to full blown and decided to go ahead and go dual pump so I went ahead and got 2 of full blown 340 lph fuel pump.

 

Dual fuel pump half assemble don't worry i will take off the bolts and insert one leg at a time into the fuel tank only did this for picture reference


All -an fitting looking good although I don't like the look of the straight fitting on the fuel filter "trying to keep my engine clean looking, guess I'll have to find a place underneath the car to install the filter.


Hoping to have tine tonight after work get started if not then this weekend.

 

I think I already know the answer but, I'll ask anyway just in case there might just be that one little thing missing. So later tonight I've decide to replace the fuel line with the new braided hose and I'm aiming for a clean engine bay look. my question is, can I install the fuel filter underneath the car right beside the fuel tank then run the fuel line all the way to the fuel rail? I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work but just wanted to ask out of curiosity.

 

the closer to the rail the better IMO.

sometimes with new lines there can be debris inside that breaks loose during the first few run cycles. last thing you want is any of this debris clogging an injector.

The aem sucks really... They've been prone to leak, not hold pressure, and the spring is too soft to hold high pressure. Supposedly either AEM or someone makes a stiffer spring but I would just avoid it. AEM doesn't really make anything... they get permission from other companies to license their products with an AEM sticker..

kinda like how the AEM boost control solenoid is nothing but a MAC solenoid with an AEM sticker and a 3 times higher price tag

I pissed off the AEM guys at PRI last year, I asked them who they licensed their products from, his reply "we make everything".. I then proceeded to rattle off every company they licensed 95% of their **** from. He got angry huehuehue. Definitely trolled an entire company

 

looking good.

not sure why you went with the dual pump route, IMHO it's not needed for your application, they can be a pita to install. A walbro 400 would be fine for 500whp on e85 and just add a bosh inline pump if you ever need more fuel.

yes you can mount the filter close to the tank, nothing wrong with that.
I have mine mounted under the IM so it's out of sight.

 

 

Decide to go dual because of hp craving, I figure I will possibly want more down the road so why not have it set up for it now and I didn't not want to take the 1 intank pump and 1 inline pump route or sumping my tank route. Yes the dual setup will be a pain to install but it doesn't mean it can't be done. I did almost just went with the Walbro 400 but yeah full blown said I will only be able to make 500ish and that was not the number I was aiming for, 600 to 650 is the ideal number for this goal of mine. And thanks I will take that under the im idea.

 

Does anyone know or have first hand experience on if the skunk2 ultra series fuel rail will bolt up to other existing intake manifold?

Edit: nvm guess I'll just get it and make custom bracket and just see if it will line up.

 

OK guys dual fuel pump is in, also all my fitting came in the mail today and work was boring to I took early leave to get the fuel system done, so basically fuel system is solid now and good up to 800+ whp "a bit overkill for my goal?" I think not!

-8 feed -6 return line routed and bracket on.


Dual full blown 340 lph pump and hanger install and set


Install - an fittings and hook up fuel feed and fuel return


Just a quick mock up of where the inline fuel filter is going to be, I couldn't find a decent place near the fuel tank to mount the inline fuel filter and where I did find, I didn't want to run fuel line around and back so I just decided to mounted it where the proportion valve use to be and plus it already have stud there for easy mounting I only have to enlarge the hole for the fuel filter bracket.


I assume there no use for the stock fuel hanger harness no more so just going to let hang.


Next will be assembling the block, just waiting for it to arrive from cncwerx and just saving up for one of mac turbo.

 

I though I just post this here of how I install my dual hanger incase someone want to go the dual fuel pump route I didn't follow the full blown guide as it look to complicated and a little to too much work so I did it my way of what I though would be easier, after a couple of tried, it took me about 15 min including assembly to get the dual hanger install.

So after a couple of try and testing I figure the if you assemble the pump like how it is in the picture, it will create more pressure and tension for the line that goes from the pump to the hanger and that what make it hard for you to pull the hanger leg up and when you do there is more chance the line will kink.


Installing the pump a little further down the leg about 3/4 of an inch will create less tention and be easier for you to pull the leg up and less chance the line will kink as there will be less pressure when the line is at a radius. (Note) don't go further than 3/4 of an inch with the pump on the leg more than that will cause the pump to be to deep and will bottom out on the fuel tank with your hanger sticking out to high and you won't be able to bolt it down. Also when tightening the clamp make sure the adjuster is on the side closest to the bottom edge of the leg like in the first picture for best clearance.


Next I install the left bolt loosely on the right leg so that there would be movement between the leg and the hanger cap and make for easy insertion and installation, next I insert the pump harness and line then clamp it down.


Now I insert the left leg in and move it to the side.


Now I carefully insert the right leg in and move is as much as I can to the side.
I then pull up the left leg to where I can attach the other pump harness and hook up the second line also make sure the clamp are tighten out of the way.


After that allign the left leg and top of the hanger in place, now with your finger power and pull up the left leg to the 2 mounting hole, this part would be easier with 2 person but, one is do able it all common sense and determination from here. I would of took a picture but both my hand were busy with no one to take the picture.

After that go to the other side and adjust the hanger top with the second mounting hole and screw in the bolt.

Firmly push down the hanger into place, tighten all bolt and voila! Your done!


Sorry if this diy is lacking information not so detail or incomplete as I tried but only could do what I could at the moment. English is my second language and I am trying.

 

what is your native language ?


Good job on the install.
Glad your putting work into the project as sometimes motiviation is not always on your side.

 

Same as your Charlie!

 

Nothing new but found this old video of my first turbo gsr run and though I should share, this was the first time drag racing in a turbo charge car and basically was the only run of the day don't quite remember well about the 60 ft but I think I manage to pull a 2.3 or 2.1 60 ft, 13.6 1/4 @ 107 mph setup was a stock gsr motor with skunk2 pro series im, rc 650 cc, walbro 255, aem fr fpr, act heavy duty pressure plate with 6 puck race disc street tune on pump 93 with hondata s3 v1 with innovate wideband on 12 psi spring if I have to guess it was probably at 300ish whp, treadstone turbo kit with an exception of a pfab ramhorn manifold was running a full trim car with 205 40 17 nitto 555.

Anyway enjoy it not the best but we all start somewhere sorry for the bad quality video, was taken with a friend who not so good at it and an old camcorder! Yeah the one that use video tape it was hard to convert as I didn't have technology and software for me to convert so I hook it up to the plasma and just try to hold my galaxy steady and did it the ghetto way.


Oh yeah and I just put the order in for my turbo this Saturday, will post it up once it get here.

 

Most people use the stock fuel pump wire to trigger a relay on their direct pump wire so it functions like stock with the ignition switch.

 

In the mean time anyone interested in guessing!

 

I was wondering about that as I have not wire my relay up yet, I believe the diagram that was given to me by full blown is for a drag car setup, I was looking at it the whole time and didn't figure it out I call them but most of there tech is alway busy and no one is available to confirm it, I think I got it right but just to make sure.


The red wire with fuse goes to the positive wire for the fuel pump that obvious! The blue wire goes to the positive battery terminal and the purple wire go to either the battery grount terminal for drag car setup or hook up to the stock harness for to work with oem ignition correct! If not correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm such a noob when it come to wiring lolz.

 

I don't have to guess, I can just ask Mac lol.

but for fun I'll say mark 3 silver surfer or a reaper.

 

Finally receive my skunk2 ultra series fuel rail, took forever to get here after usps lost it, anyway nice customer service from the place I got it from they even throw in a free thermal gasket,



In a few minutes I'll post up if it fit or not!

 

Easy assembly of the product



And I don't know why there was an early discussion about this fuel rail not fitting and need custom bracket to work or when I call down to the main place to ask if this fuel rail can be fitted on other intake manifold and they simply reply "no it won't fit any other intake manifold! The ultra series fuel rail was design specifically for the ultra series intake manifold". Hmm!! Must be and business thing, but here proof it actually fit nicely with the edelbrock Victor X intake manifold with all the injector boss all line up.

 

Woke up today to this surprise!



So here the story I order the skunk2 ultra series fuel fail about 4 week ago, the first week it was already suppose to arrive but didn't. So I waiting another week and shipment wasn't moving, 2 weeks into it, so I contact the vendor I bought it from, they track it down and said the shipment has not been moving so they have to put a claim on it as lost and will either refund my money back or they can resend me a new one with a free intake manifold thermal gasket, I figure what the heck mistake happen so I took the offer for a new one plus the thermal gasket. The third week I finally receive the fuel rail all was done and good I was happy with the product, now the 4th week came along, today I woke up did my thing got dress and went into the living room and notice the skunk2 box on the ground I shout out to my wife saying who threw my box on the ground! Went to pick it up and it felt as something was still inside I look up at the shelf where I have place the original box and it was still there, then my mind click! it was the one that was deemed lost so I lolz I got 2 brand new skunk2 ultra series fuel rail with a free thermal gasket for the price of one.

 

The right thing to do would be contact the company and let them know both arrived. technically when that package was scanned at delivery it should have kicked back a lost or do not deliver message.

for your troubles they might let you keep it or they'll send you an RMA label for a free return. after all those 2 rails did cost the business money. it's only fair.

even if they say you can keep it you should still notify them. that way they don't keep waiting for news on the first rail.