you don't need to use it unless you have more inputs (sensors) than you can plumb into the existing wiring.

it is mostly used for datalogging.

 

It says right on the Hondata board.
P2 is for DIGITAL INPUTS
P1 is for ANALOG INPUTS

Read the Smanager helpfile on Digital Inputs.
http://www.hondata.com/help/smanager...parameters.htm

Heres the Analog Input section too.
http://www.hondata.com/help/smanager...parameters.htm

 

thank you that what i needed to hear.

 

your the man muck! yeah! it no wonder i couldn't find that, it under a whole new section in my dictionary.

 

forgot to add that i put in the the order for my piston and rods i went with:

wiseco 12.54.1 piston part # k593m815ap
piston pin 21mm x 50.85 x 13 mm id part #s656
manley h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts part # 14025-4

i was also going to go with 625+ bolts but figure it was overkill. and also i will be ditching! well! not ditching but putting the concrete block to the side and use it as a back up block as i will be going with a css block.

 

are they designed for all motor?

 

technically yeah they are, but they are custom piston so i don't really know either! let's let the pro answer that one!

 

just hope the dome is thicker than a shelf NA piston, if not you'll have serious issues... ask Muckman about that.

 

We didn't have issues with the dome on the shelf piston, we were just concerned about longevity.

 

alright guy back for some update! over the past week this is what i did

pick up another good ls block with an good ls crank for 100 a win win deal


also pick up a good almost complete running gsr block for 200 another win win deal


and lastly i score a good complete running gsr transmission with shift linkage for 200 the guy even throw in the transmission mount, starter, whole clutch assembly, and he said he would of give me the axle too but couldn't find it. only thing wrong i could find with the transmission was a broken speed sensor not a bigger and can easily be replace.


my internal assembly also came in today

manley h beam rods, wiseco piston, and upgrade s656 pin.


close up on the manley rods and i have never bought these type of rods before but is all the marking on the box mean it been measure and balance or just measure? but beside that these look top notch a ways from eagle rods.


wiseco piston 12.5.1 compression 81.5 bore


a close up picture


now I don't know much about piston but are these mark around the outside hole of the piston rod pin ok? i assume they are but could be wrong.



wanted to compare pins the s656 with .200 wall on the left and the standard one on the right.


that pretty much it, just waiting untill it get a little warmer so i can get outside to clean and take apart the gsr block and send it to cncwerx to have them put in their cylinder support system i seen, read, and heard these block can handle some serious power up to 700whp and still running strong so i figure since cncwerx guaranteed 500whp or money back guaranteed i figure it a good place to invest since that what I'm shooting for, maybe a little more to void that deal i tend to get an itch every now and then when it come to boosting lolz.

 

Wow wish I could find a gsr tranny for 200

 

Yeah those marks around the pin boss is fine. The clips will scratch em up when you install them anyways.

 

i have a quick question, i have never bought or though about throttle body before and i did my research but everyone setup is different, from observing on my build so far what size throttle body would be good for my usage? would it be good to run oversized after market throttle body or am i better off with a oem type r throttle body sending it off to maxbore to get it bore to 65mm might be more that I'm missing so fill me in if i missed something.

 

Throttle bodies are more driver preference in my opinion. The size is not going to hold you back unless you are making a lot of HP. The downside of a large TB is lack of driveability. And even some of the aftermarket billet throttle bodies just suck overall, the throttle plates stick, the pulleys dont fit the cables right, the seals leak etc.

For a street car <500hp I would suggest an OEM style throttle body, that includes a bored out OEM TB or a cast style TB up to 68mm.

 

yeah that what i though also for never looking into throttle body, since the long block can only take in so much and the turbo is already forcing as it can to get the desire power level, it doesn't really make much sense, but I'm purchasing a good used edelbrock victor x manifold for a guy today for 200 and that a steal already plus he throwing in a free oem throttle body without sensor of my choice a gsr, type r, or an s2000 throttle body so i though i ask. so i guess I'll just debate on either the type r or s2000 and see which one is in better condition before i make my pick because i already have a gsr lying around.

 

well the deal went solid and i got the edelbrock victor x intake manifold even got it for a better price got it for 180 with the free oem throttle body. and we all seen picture of it but these are mine so let me ***** it out.

 

It good Friday and lucky it a paid holiday for me, so with my free time today i went to full blown motorsport and grab myself a dual fuel pump hanger kit, then head straight over to Modern Automotive Performance and got -8 an fuel feed line -6 an fuel return, with all fitting. well! most of it anyway, i only got what was in stock and the rest will be ship out to me shortly.

 

Ooo.. Looks to be a Pain to install. But, hopefully it will suit you.

 

tearing out the old fuel line and putting in the new one yes! it always a pain and dirty work to install new product but it a must for future use.

 

judging from the look of this I'm guessing goodbye gas cover! now I'm just wondering if it will clear the rear seat.

 

you might be able to get away with using a 90 low profile adapter and a straight hose end instead of that 90 degree hose end

 

My pump cover still fits. Use a 90* NPT to AN fitting like ballistic1350 recommended.

 

i hate myself i should of ask before purchasing i guess it's back to map for exchange, but i doubt it not going to work with my line as the setup right now is a push in clamp type so i don't know if they even make low profile push clamp fitting.

 

You only need a straight push loc hose end which threads right on to the adapter. Its not one single piece

 

alright I'll go see what they have tomorrow as for the other fitting am i good just tightening them down or should i use some sort of locktite or sealent.