im going turbo with my completely stock 2000 civic ex coupe. the d16 is bone stock, and it is my daily driver, so i need a list of EVERYTHING i will need to be able to get this done. i have the turbo kit covered, but i need injectors, fuel pump, fuel rail, anything in the engine such as rods, pistons, or head i need to change, ecu, and anything like that you guys can think of. also clutch too. again, SOMETHING I CAN DRIVE EVERY DAY. me being 16, i want this to stay somewhat cost effective. im going for around 300whp. thank you all so much!!

 

You being 16, this is the last thing that should be on your mind. Getting some proper driving education should come WAY before a faster car. No, the **** they teach you in high school isn't proper driving education. It's Introduction to Driving 101. Find a local HPDE, get your parents to sign a waiver, and go learn how to drive properly from real professionals.

Against better judgement, though, I will point you this direction.

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/

 

Seriously dude, I wouldn't focus on motor stuff first. Common sense would tell you to upgrade your car in this order:
1. Catch up with regular maintenance
2. Tires/wheels
3. Brakes
4. Suspension/Chassis
5. maybe some fun with electrical interior...
6. Learn tons of stuff from the service manuals for your car, and further your education on what you wanna do
7. Leave your car's engine mechanically stock until you can easily afford to boost it. And get a backup car because it will break. Anytime you put a turbo on a car that wasn't designed for it, you put tons of stress on it, and it's a ticking time bomb at that point.

Plus, I'd imagine you don't make a lot of money, even with decent hours. Leaving your car stock and running well will keep your fuel economy up, saving you money for the parts you'll need to boost it.

Edit: Go to the FAQ section of this subforum, and use that to create a to-do list of sorts of all you wanna do with your car, because you being 16, I'd imagine there's still a lot you have yet to learn about 6th gen Civics and Hondas in general. I thought I knew a lot about cars at 16, but I was rapidly proven wrong by a lot of the regular guys here, including but not limited to NotARacist lol

Good day.

 

16 and wanting 300hp out of a d16. I hope you have rich parents.

 

You should have seen me floundering around 11 years ago, with my old, inherited '87 Subaru Justy turbo wagon turbo was coked to ****, wiring harness was chewed to **** by rodents, paint was peeling to ****, but damnit if I didn't keep that car on the road as long as I could.

Seriously, OP, side is right. Just owning a modified car can be a full-time job, in and of itself. Add a turbo to the mix, and it has the potential to turn into a massive clusterfuck. You have to crawl before you can run, and right now you are very clearly still down on all fours.

 

haha yeah thats true. thank you

 

i wish

 

yeah i agree. thanks haha

 

Sheeiit man, I know how that goes. I paid $500 for my mom's old '97 Sentra 5spd with 246K miles at the time. Ran pretty decent when I got it. But between a fender bender in my first three weeks of ownership, doing all my stupid ricerboy things, and not having funds to fix a major emissions system failure, I just could not keep up with it. Loved that thing to death though. Sold it for $1200 to pay off a debt to mom, and got a loan for my Civic. Now, I just have $140 left!

But enough about me.



No problem. And ****, unlike half the people on here, at least you listened. You ever need help, give us a holler.

 

will do man. thanks

 

Also 300hp on a stock d16, especially a Y8 with its shitty crankshaft oiling system is way beyond what stock rods can handle safely and have any sort of reliability. 220-230 is about the maximum proven to be safe a reliable on stock internals.

Your biggest obstacle is the crankshaft. Unlike every other honda crank that has two oiling holes per journal the Y8 only has one per journal. This has led to a rash of spun bearings on both stock and turbocharged Y8s. My bone stock NA Y8 suffered this fate randomly one day while cruising around town.

The only real way to have reliability is to replace the Y8 crank with a Z6 crank to solve the oiling problem, in addition to a ported oil pump. However you might as well throw rods and pistons in it at that point. Makes 0 sense not to.

Take everyone's advice, leave the car alone, especially if it's the only car you have to drive. The potential problems that could arise from turbocharging the stock motor you currently have could cause you to be unable to drive the car for a significant amount of time. Save your money and buy a cheap reliable daily if you plan to start tinkering with the civic. Also save up enough money (3k minimum for a proper reliable setup) so you can do everything the right way the first time.

 

i agree with all that as well haha thank you

 

taking bets that he's on the local facebook honda page getting parts as we speak.....

 

There's nothing wrong picking up an important part or two here and there, especially if the price is right.

 

I ran my stock turbo y8 for years beat on daily and revving beyond 8500rpm, it was by far my most reliable turbo car. I dont think oiling is an issue I'd be more worried about the rods than anything else. Ive seen just as many z6 motors spin bearings and throw rods as y8's. In fact my turbo z6 almost spun every single rod bearing when I took it apart and I babied that motor.

 

You my friend had a unicorn y8 lol.

I still can't diagnose why my y8 kicked it. Bone stock save for an intake, 3 owners including me, adult driven, 125k on a 97 chassis. One day leaving work (oil up to temp, good pressure, high end synthetic fluids and filter) put the clutch in at a light and it died. Cranked it back up, still no knocking, suddenly no vtec crossover then crazy knocking along with a sudden loss of all oil pressure.

By then I knew the motor was fucked so I drove it the 6 miles home. When I tore it down the oil pump looked perfect, block and had had no oil varnish of any kind, water passages looked brand new, most of the rod bearings got pounded out so hard they were in 4 pieces. I still need to inspect the oil pressure relief valve. I'm wondering if the spring failed or if the piston got hung up on the bypass ports sharp edges.

I've seen more y8s spin bearings than not. If this is his only car and it's his DD then it isn't worth the crapshoot of will the bottom end hold together? Especially if it has high mileage, lots of owners, and you don't know how it was driven and how it was maintained.

 

Whoa whoa whoa... you got 6 miles out of a motor that wouldn't make oil pressure? How?!

******' Honda, that's how.

 

Eh, my step sister "didn't know you have to change the oil". Went something like 50k miles in her old DX 5G, until the motor finally said "**** you" and caught on fire. Unfortunately, the family didn't tell me until after they had gotten rid of the car. I told them I could have swapped my Y7 in there, and the money they could have paid me would have covered a new motor for my car. Oh well

The Z6 is just better, though. Dual oil journals > single oil journals, all day every day.

 

Hm... Is it just the Y8 that has single oil journals, or is the Y7 like that too?

And that's a neat story, Although unfortunate for that 5G
Seems like whenever someone gets their license, they need to have a class on vehicle maintenance. That may help, with some of the people that come into my work... People coming in with a Lexus or Infiniti at 12K overdue for an oil change, and I'm just like "How can you live with yourself?!"

In fact, this one customer whose Cobalt is in our shop right now, he ran something over and knocked a giant chunk of oil pan off (something that I personally am constantly afraid of...), and didn't think much of it. He said the oil light came on, and the car just made a loud noise and shut off a few miles later on the highway. What a dingle.

 

The y7 is a non vtec economy shitbox. You'd be better off powering your car with a chain and pedals.

 

yea i think i have that **** box in my civc dx, trans gears are long as ****!

op if your stuck wanting a turbo car, put that turbo kit on the stock engine and use a set of aftermarket injectors and a EMS and call it a day, when it blows one day and your more experienced and your pockets allow you to then upgrade the internals and do a better turbo build.

 

Eh, my old Y7 with a 15G @10 PSI could keep up with the 4.6L GT Rustangs It wasn't fast by any stretch of the mind, but it was fun to drive.

 

I always found it strange that the v6 had forged internals from the factory and could support more power with forced induction than the v8s.

I wish I didn't have to adult, then I could just buy car parts and be making progress on everything right now.

 

Not gunna lie, even though I have a Y7 and like it well enough, that still made me laugh.

It is indeed an economy shitbox, but until I get a second car to drive while the Civic is at home, I don't have a problem with that. I get at least 28 City/40 Highway MPG, and that is certainly better than some. I also try to take decent care of it. It goes where I wanna go, and the car fits my needs well.

 

I say save up and throw a stock LS in there with a GSR trans, and then boost it. Way more reliable, and even stock the torque bump will make it much more fun to drive.