I have a 94 LS, I just installed my DSM 450's last week, I'm running off my turbo map with uberdata. Its been running perfect for a week, no problems or anything, this morning on the way home from my girlfriend's house, CEL, no CEL, on and off, and the motor would hiccup, 3-5 minutes later, the light comes on and stays on. I can't rev past 3500, its almost like a rev limiter or its in limp mode or something, idle changes to 1500 rpm from its usual stock idle. I've got the resistors run inline, the solder would not stick to the connections, so basically the resistors are wrapped around the wires and wrapped with electrical tape, then zip tied over that. I pulled the service connector out of the green rubber boot. There was 2 different ones, one had 2 spots, and one had 3 spots. I jumped the one with 2 spots with a paper clip, turned the key on, the light would stay on, not blink or anything, I pull the paper clip, the light would go out, I tried jumped the ones with 3 and got a fun spark. SO. I'm a little lost right, turbo was going on very soon, and now I'm sitting here with a dead ride. ALSO. when I first pulled up and got out of the car, the smell was horrible, can't describe it...but it smelled nasty. Anybody have any idea what I'm doing wrong with the CEL check, or what else could be wrong? thanks.

 

pulled the plugs, all of them are pitch black compared to the usual grey.

I find it weird that ALL the resistors would come loose?

how much heat can the resistors handle, they are not wrapped in anything, just sitting there in the engine bay next to the fuel rail. Any help would be appreciated, thanks so much.

 

just pulled a resistor and ohm'd it out. It reads 10 ohms as it should, I'm really stumped. is there anything ECU related that could of happened. Running on uberdata, 29C256 chip, tried to check CEL, solid CEL when jumped, goes away when not jumped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pushinlsteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got the resistors run inline, the solder would not stick to the connections, so basically the resistors are wrapped around the wires and wrapped with electrical tape, then zip tied over that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, when you resort to wrapping wires around something then using electrical tape to 'secure' it, I'd expect nothing less than a CEL post.

Seriously, this needs to be fixed - sounds like you didn't let the iron get hot enough.

What is the wattage rating of the resistors you're using?

 

You know I should of known I get criticized here at good ol' Honda-Tech. Bunch of ********.

For one, I'm not an idiot. for 2. 10 watt 10 ohm as specified, it was running fine for a week. Don't give me any **** about how they were wired up, you could solder them with gold if you want, or you could duct tape them, electrical tape them, whatever, the connection is there, it doesn't matter. all resistors were connected to the wires, i checked, and the resistors are reading 10 ohm's on the voltage/ohm checker I have. The iron didn't get hot enough, although the **** melted and dripped right past the connections onto my intake manifold, I tried 3 different sizes of solder as well. So. when you are a high school graduate making 6.50 and just trying to get your car running, I will damn sure resort to wrapping my wires with electrical tape and using zip ties to secure it. I'd expect nothing less than a "your an idiot post" when someone needs help. Thanks guys. I'll go over to boosted hybrid and see if I can get some intelligent answers there.

 

Calm down buddy

But yeah i believe running without a resister can sometimes fry the ecu? Its like running peak and hold injectors without a resister box, i hear it can run real funny and fry the ecu, maybe since they got loose something happened to ur ecu, i'd check that

 

Ya' know bro - if someone came on here and said they were driving down the highway and their wheel fell off and also noted that they were only using 1 lugnut - wouldn't you quickly say "WTF, one lugnut, thats not how you're suppose to do things"

Well see, thats my take on using the twist-it-tape-it method for electrical connections.

Have you tried resetting the ECU to clear the code? Does the CEL come back on immediately? Did you ever get it tuned - or still running off of a base map?

 

Well I'm going to resolder in a new jumper for 1, because I believe its a bad solder job. And I've talked to someone else who runs hondata and the same thing happened to them, the connection went bad, and it couldn't read the chip anymore so it threw the car into limp mode which is what happened here. I'll reset the ECU, and resolder in J1 and see what happens. I would just go back to stock by snipping J1 completely but I've got the DSM injectors in there, so I'd have to buy all new seals and ****. I'll post up what happens

 

looked like J1 was a little faulty, desoldered it, put in a new jumper, resoldered, reset ECU, started right up, drove for an hour with no problems. Thanks H-T.

 

Well, now I've got a new problem. The main or fuel pump relay clicks rapidly and the CEL comes on in sync with every click of the relay. When this is happening, the clicking pulses the fuel pump with makes it run like **** of course, and then it finally shuts off. if I try to keep it running by tapping the gas, it goes in limp mode. I'm guessing it can't read my Eprom correctly do to faulty soldering job or something of the sort, I am going to desolder and resolder everything and maybe that will do the trick. The car was running for a week with no probs. I bought a new main relay and that didn't do anything so I'm really stumped.