Hi

Im looking at getting a OBX tubular exhaust manifold to fit a T3 to my B16.

I have a full length rad however and am not sure it the turbo would foul the rad.

Whats the distance from the flange face on the head to the most prominant point of the manifold/turbo assembly.

Also is there any reason why i should avoid these manifolds?

Thanks

 

99% of them will crack w/in the first week of use.

 

They're not as bad as everyone says. They're not great, but if it's all you've got budget for, it's not bad. I mean, not everyone has the cash for a Full Race or Love Fab. The tubes used are thin gauge which isn't a good thing and that is the main problem. But the one I have has gone 9 months now of daily driving w/ no cracks. And you'll notice the finish work isn't great, ie the WG flange needs to be cleaned out of excess weld.

I've got on on my girlfriend's Integra (got it before I knew about the issues with them) and we have a full size Fluidyne on there with no problems. And as you know, the fluidyne is significantly thicker than a factory radiator. At first, we ran a Civic radiator because we thought we'd have fitment issues, but then we checked clearances again and found the fluidyne fit.

 

Cheers

Whats the distance though if anyone know? Im not fitting mine to a civic

If space to is too restricted i may just opt for a HKS T28 log manifold, can fit a new GT series 28R then

 

if you can't afford a full-race or a love-fab, just get a log style... you will make the same amount of power, and it won't crack on you,.

 

Ive already got the logger here, Cost £300 though. I was planning on selling it and gettinga T3, Manifold and downpipe for like £435 and thats including shipping to UK. Was planning on making a bracket t to support the turbo aswell.

Hmmm decisions, sticking with the log T28 is looking favourable, athough to bling bling of the OBX (atleast in pics) is nice

Thanks for the advice, keep it coming

Jonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JonnyCoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> athough to bling bling of the OBX (atleast in pics) is nice</TD></TR></TABLE>

only to those who don't know.... those who do, place bets on how far/will he make it home

 

Take a look at this....

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=450750

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pissedoffsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

only to those who don't know.... those who do, place bets on how far/will he make it home </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've made it quite far with mine..no problems yet

 

I just bought one not to long ago....I hope it stays together.....

 

i dont care how much of a budget ur on....youll end up spending more in the end when u crack that mani .....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont care how much of a budget ur on....youll end up spending more in the end when u crack that mani .....</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can stop the cracking for about $10 bux if you know how to use your brain (granted alot of people don't)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you can stop the cracking for about $10 bux if you know how to use your brain (granted alot of people don't) </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is so true!!! if your on a budget..dont try to go to low w/ your money on cheap products or youll regret it!

 

log style won't spool up like this manifold my buddy got one and the tuner had a hard time tuning because it spooled so quickly obx manifold basic drag turbo full boost 3500 you can't ask for more than that if you brace it properly no problems plus if you take a look at the picture someone posted in this ad that manifold wasn't braced at all the new ones they sell on ebay are braced it won't crack so easily worth the money ($199) in my opinion

 

bracing wont do much, especially how they come braced...the key is supporting the turbo.

 

thing is did anyone of those people who had problems with the obx manifold ever bolt their dp to their oil pan area like the stock exhaust manifold? their is alot of weight their. and if their is nothing to suport it of course its ganna crack. thing is the log style or the cast iron manifolds are alot stronger so u don;t have this problem, but it puts alot more strain on your head if u don;t have the dp bolted to your engine. just make sure to brake the manifold up and attatch your dp to your engine like you stock exhaust and u will be fine.

 

Cheers

My dad is a sheet metal fabricator so i have access to welding equipment as well as our Uni race workshop. I was planning to fashion a braket to suport the turbo so i guess i'll deffo do that.

With regard to those dont know, not many people know much about VTECS over here, let alone turbo ones that arn't in a Honda

Sounds tempting to me, guess i best sort my ebay account out

cheers

 

Anyone know the distance?

Jonny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Barney Ruble &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">log style won't spool up like this manifold my buddy got one and the tuner had a hard time tuning because it spooled so quickly </TD></TR></TABLE>

you're tuner's a ******* moron then