1994alex

Hi guys,
I am currently looking into building a 500bhp b18c4 turbo, I live in the UK but I will try and import a lot of the parts if I am unable to get them here, this is the build spec so far;
Mega squirt ecu
Brian Crower Stage 2 cams
Brian Crower Adjustable Cam Gears
Brian Crower Valve Springs & Retainer kit
Brian Crower Valve Keeper/Locks
Brian Crower Intake Valves
Brian Crower Exhaust Valves
Brian Crower Valve Guides Intake
Brian Crower Valve Guides Exhaust
Porting & Polishing
Arp head bolts
Gaskets
Skunk2 Ultra Series 3.5ltr Intake manifold
Skunk2 68mm throttle body
Black works Racing Ram Horn Manifold
Custom Blackworks Racing Spec COMP 6265 Turbo 3" VBand
TurboSmart 44mm Wastegate
BWR Dump Tube
BWR Down Pipe
Exhaust system unknown
Custom front mounted intercooler
Turbosmart Race Port Blow Off Valve
Waldron 255 fuel pump
Skunk2 550cc Fuel Injector Kit
2 Bar Map Sensor
Darton sleeves
Cp Pistons 9:0:1
Eagle H Beam Con-rods

If I am unable to get some of the Brian crower items I will be going for skunk2 as they are based in the UK. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Regards
Alex

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Black works racing is bad, iirc. Skip them. 550cc will not make anywhere near 500 wHP, go much bigger. Your fuel pump may not be big enough, I don't know. How much boost are you running on (turbo I overlooked)? Better get a 3 bar map sensor (it has to read vacuum too, so 2 bar isn't 2 positive bar).

Darton sleeves, forged internals and the megasquirts ECU is a good start. I'm positive you don't need all that head work to make the power you want to, but go for it. It won't hurt.

blackeg

you really dont need all that brian crower valvetrain stuff. you can easily make your 500 hp with a set of type r cams or maybe a set of stage 1 all motor cams. i think if you go bigger than that then turbine size needs to match up to the cams but thats a bit out of my realm. stock valves arefine for that power unless you plan on using a lot of antilag then maybe upgrade the exhaust valves.

a 255lph pump will make 500 whp. mine is going fine for many years at that power. my friend started to run out of fuel with his walbro 255 in the 550whp range.
your block plan sounds solid but i would recommend going closer to 10:1 and set your piston to wall bigger than cp's specs, maybe somewhere in the .0045" or metric equivalent.

what fuel are you going to use?
what bore size are you going to use?

1994alex

What sort of manifold and turbo system would be best to go for?
Injectors 1000cc? Or is that too big?
Suggestions for fuel pump?
The head work I thought it may be a good idea to have it done so it is a bit smoother?

1994alex

What Pistons would you recommend?
Bore size I was looking into standard of as close to as possible as I don't really want to be boring the block unless it is necessary.
Fuel wise I would be looking at pump fuel I think it's 93/95 octane

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Honda B-Series cylinder head is very robust from the start and don't need any of the sort of head work that other makes and models typically do to get good efficiency.

For 500bhp, turbo is way too large for the U.K. Streets and roads. You effectively have a turbo capable of over 750bhp, that is laggy, unresponsive and uncontrollable. A stock Seat or Vauxhall week out accelerate you in no time. Something in the GT30R size will do the job with more reliability and flexibility than the comp you've chosen .

Bosch style injectors aren't too large like skunk2 Grams, FIC, Injector Dynamics .. Those in 775cc will do 500bhp easily. Not the precision or RC style injectors.

Keep the item type R head parts and ditch the Brian Crower garbage, for years of reliability and fun.

You went a little bits on your plan, here..Go back to basics, increase your static compression, and you'll be fine.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

My mistake on the 255 lph fuel pump. I didn't know where they ran out of fuel. With 93/95 octane you should be fine with something like ID 1000s. Modern day injectors don't suffer from being 'too big' very often. They are quite tunable. As for compression, I didn't chime in on that but 10:1 is very safe and you can go higher without issue. People boost stock GSR motors which run a higher compression. I would start searching for a tuner though. Make sure they are comfortable with your ECU platform or find someone who is.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No need for the enormous intake manifold either. 3.5 liter ultra for 500bhp? Just type R or skunk 2 pro is all you need

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure you just need to do some block work (CSS, dart, sleeves, whatever), forged internals, upgrade the fuel system, and turn up the boost. The rest of your motor will hold up. I'd go with the CSS for the power level and price. Unless something has changed, I've heard nothing but good things about CSS.

EDIT:

I haven't seen anything that mentioned the chassis or transmission. You'll want a decent aftermarket LSD and probably a hydro trans. You'll definitely have a huge list of things to do to the car aside from just stuffing 500 HP under the hood if you want to drive it too.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

CSS isn't practical for the U.K.. If he's trying to send the block it to the u.s, he might as well sleeve it and be done..

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

That's my bad, I forgot about the whole UK thing. It might be worth creeping around and seeing what others in the UK are doing as far as block sleeving then. I haven't really paid much attention to the location of certain companies.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Pretty simple.. They don't for the most part. Possibly in other parts of Europe, but from what I remember, 90% of machine shops don't do it.

Remember, he says 500bhp, which is not the same as 500whp. He doesn't need CSS or sleeving for his goals.

1994alex

I know you guys have said bwr manifolds are not the best so for a replacement could you advise me on a turbo set up made by another company?

blitzman

you could try Doc Race manifolds, I've ordered their ram horn manifold without A/C, T3 flange and 44mm wastegate vclamp flange.

I'm in the UK too and just waiting on delivery along with other parts for my build.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Spoolin' performance. No "Ramhorn" no nonsense Brian Crower parts. No U.S. "racer boy" crap from overboasted youtube video idiocy. Solid, reliable parts with good tuning responsibly

1994alex

Okay I will have a look into them.
Concerning conrods is there any difference between eagle b18c1/5 and b18c4?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Nope. Same engine with different country designations.

Geis

No ramhorn?
I didn't know shodan took bribes

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Lol he's just saying it isn't needed for his particular goals.

And I'll also reinforce that you don't need all of that Brian Crower crap (and let's be honest here, most of it is crap... Just the same Porsche based can profiles everyone else has been copying with a different name and the same generic valvetrain components with a different name)

All you need are OEM GSR or ITR/CTR cams and your typical Type R or Blox/Skunk2 Pro intake manifold and a 68 or 70mm throttle body (if you just want the extra efficiency). Unless you plan on turning the motor higher than the factory rev limit then there's no need for springs or retainers. If you're planning for more power down the road or simply want to maximize the efficiency and power production of your current power goals and future power goals then going with a proven quality camshaft that works and isn't too extreme or the same generic profiles like the GSC T1s, Kelford cams, Cat cams (only have 2 vtec honda profiles) and a quality set of springs and retainers then they can't hurt. If anything, especially with the T1s, you'll make more power with less boost, have slightly better response, more torque, and a much broader powerband over OEM cams.

Also there's nothing wrong with porting the head, increasing system efficiency is never bad. However at your initial power levels you won't benefit from it much as much as you think you will or should. While it should make more power and torque over stock ports, it really depends on the port work itself (every company has there different methods and secrets) but even more so on proper camshaft selection and intake manifold design. Those two things in addition to tuning will dictate how the porting helps. Also if you are running a higher rev limit the porting, and again even more important the camshaft profiles and intake mangold design, will help carry the power and torque higher into the powerband but eventually power production will fall off and unless your gearing and tire size requres it, there's no point in turning the motor any further past that point.

Your initial goals will see bigger gains from turbocharger sizing, a decent intake manifold, camshafts, and the most important part, proper tuning.

Speaking of proper turbocharger sizing, that turbocharger is huge for only 500bhp (and yes I know the difference between US horsepower ratings). That turbocharger is capable of nearly 900hp and the larger turbine side is just going to increase lag for no reason. Even a straight 6262 is still too big. You could back down to a 5858 or even smaller and still make 500bhp but have much better response and a much broader powerband. Your current turbocharger selection won't start to really make power until at least 6000rpm, probably closer to 6500 before it really wakes up and 7000 before it's making serious power. Unless you plan to turn the motor to 10k or even 11k you'll have virtually no power 99% of the time. If it's a street car then you're really going to hate it, especially with the roads in the UK. Depending on what gear you're in that turbocharger won't start making power till aroun 70mph, dunno what that is KPH lol. That turbocharger belongs on nothing shy of a dedicated drag car or much much larger (like 3 litres, think Supra) street car.

I strongly suggest you rethink most of your setup as you're buying parts for 800hp but trying to make just a little over half that. Bigger isn't better.

1994alex

Would this be a good ram horn, down pipe and dump tube set up for a precision 5530 turbo? I thought this may be the better option as it is for 510bhp?
http://www.spoolinperformance.com/st...b084cc7a5abe03

i am currently re working the spec will upload when done


Alex

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Sure, though yet again, I don't know why you feel a kooks "ramhorn" is even necessary, not why you're so stuck on a Precision. Something goes wrong, you must shop it back to the Precision to inspect or rebuild. With a Garrett or Garrett hybrid you can at least stay in the U.K. to have it inspected and rebuilt for piece of mind.
But of course that's why there is such a thing as choice.

1994alex

So i ram horn isn't needed? I thought it was for this bhp?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not even close. 500bhp is about 425whp, which is what is commonly used as a point of reference on this and many automotive forums. BHP is not referred to as often. You can use a mini-ram, Mini-EQ, and even a tubular log manifold to make that power. What you're reading from most Americans are the typical "bigger is better" theories being applied.. BIG turbo , BIG manifolds for "just in case" they want to go larger later.

What you're looking for is more reasonable for your region and use. So, no, a Kooks is not at all needed for this level. That's just people getting them because of their cost (about 50 companies make them) and aesthetics.

For your HP level, you can use something as simple as this with a real turbocharger from Garrett. Skip all the Brian Crower camshafts and crap. You can even do this on a stock head with GS-R camshafts. You would have just wasted a TON of money.

Spoolin Performance tubular log manifold kit for B-series Hondas

theYBLEGAL

I like how my ramhorn looks. But, that's probably all.

I cracked the collector-to-wastegate pipe twice (but mine is AC compatible, again just because I liked the look of the wastegate off to the side; I don't even have AC.)

But function over form should prevail, my ramhorn will be replaced.

Not to mention, ramhorns raise underhood temperatures a lot.

Cast logs contain heat better, have less surface area for dissipation to occur, and are less prone to vibrational failure.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Depends upon the casting sand and nickle-iron content used. Most cast iron logs are terrible, and restrict you to use a Ford style 5-bolt turbine housing. Lot of people in the U.K.and Europe trend to regret getting those manifolds that restrict reasonable turbo choices