Help with head lift

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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 05:52 AM
  #26  
turbotypeR@SPEC's Avatar
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From: Alabaster, Al, USA
Default Re: (Joseph Davis)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Joseph Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Not in my experience.

However, you may find that one side of the engine takes on a significant change in temperature as much as 30-45 seconds before the stock temp sensor location picks it up. Freaky, huh?</TD></TR></TABLE>
from what i have seen,it will stay kindof in the middle throughout a wide range of temps,but when it gets really hot,then it jumps up.it's almost like they don't want you to freak out when looking at it until it gets hot enough that you need to freak out.either way,it is not good to judge your temp by that gauge.you really don't know what temp it is
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 06:16 AM
  #27  
Joseph Davis's Avatar
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From: ashEVILle, NC, USSR
Default Re: (turbotypeR)

Eh, I can't comment for a wide range of cars - and specifically the condition of their wiring and wiring connections ie corrosion at the silly OEM bullet connector or the ground path through the engine to the battery and then to the gauge which is where any problem with the system originates.

The three cars I've had for long periods of time with datalogging equipment hooked to them, where I was looking for such things, the needle started to visibly move past 190 deg F. Normal operating temp. It starts swinging super fast above 210, though, but a practiced eye can discern what is going on. The OEM temp gauge isn't labelled with numbers, which can be confusing to some.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 06:20 AM
  #28  
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Default Re: (Joseph Davis)

Honda designed the stock temp gauge like that for a reason, so every idiot wouldn't freak out when the needle starting moving up and down. Generally, from about 150-160 deg to about 210 deg, the needle hardly moves at all. They do this so if the needle moves towards hot, there's no question about whether it's really getting too hot or if it's normal.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 06:27 AM
  #29  
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From: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Default Re: (tony1)

With my oem rad, oem pump, oem t-stat, it was about 180ish when idling/low load on the dyno, then WOT it actually dropped to 170ish. I was kinda surprised. But 200isn't all that high in the grand scheme of things, unless it does so all day long or for extended periods.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 09:01 AM
  #30  
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Default Re: (HiProfile)

I want to get a digital temp. gauge. But from what the guage says it is not overheating. When we did the tune the temp stayed around 190. It only overheated on me three times. The first was when the dizzy craped out and threw a Code 8. And the two other times it spiked just a little at idel...because alot of coolant was pushed out of the Rad. in to the overflow.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:39 PM
  #31  
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Default Re: (hangac1093)

I checked the timing today and it is dead on 16 degrees. I know I am lifting the head because I noticed on the front side of the engine on the distributor side where the head meets the block, there is oil pooling up. I have ARP studs that are going in soon. I am just wondering is the head lifting because the studs are old and can't handle 11psi?
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 04:43 PM
  #32  
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Default Re: (hangac1093)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hangac1093 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked the timing today and it is dead on 16 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>

we are not talking about your freakin base timing at the distributor.


we are saying your TIMING MAPS are probably screwed and too high. post your maps or at least tell us how much TOTAL TIMING you are running.

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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 08:31 PM
  #33  
Joseph Davis's Avatar
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From: ashEVILle, NC, USSR
Default Re: (hangac1093)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hangac1093 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked the timing today and it is dead on 16 degrees. I know I am lifting the head because I noticed on the front side of the engine on the distributor side where the head meets the block, there is oil pooling up. I have ARP studs that are going in soon. I am just wondering is the head lifting because the studs are old and can't handle 11psi?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Base timing is not what we are talking about.

Oil from a leaky distributor o-ring is not head lift.

There is nothing wrong with your headstuds, and more to the point you don't have head lift.

You are either dealing with old worn out **** and caught it in the headgasket, or you fed your engine too much ignition timing and caught it in the headgasket. Either way it is the headgasket that is fucked, feel free to reuse your stock headstuds.

If you need any more plain english, to help you understand what you've already been told by four other people three times each, I am afraid you're going to have to Paypal me ten bucks. I cannot see any reason to repeat myself again for your edification.
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