thats a Skunk2 block guard

 

My honest advice to u my friend you should learn more about motors or surround yourself with educated people that cannot lead u astray,just my 2 cents.

 

like said earlier a 60-1 will do awesomw quick spool and low budget if yor lookin for a bit more power a sc61 will make over 600 and is still very affordable, i would not go with a 50 trim it is a little small for the setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a Skunk2 block guard </TD></TR></TABLE> I hope your kidding

HEy if your scared of the block sell it to me.

I ran across a deal like this. the guy didn't know what he bought from a shop or whatever. I know i ended up with a sleeved block

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats a Skunk2 block guard </TD></TR></TABLE>
Like said above, I hope you're joking. Do you realize that Skunk2 doesn't even show a block gaurd on their website?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beast59 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My honest advice to u my friend you should learn more about motors or surround yourself with educated people that cannot lead u astray,just my 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^beast59 has a very good point.

 

is it an optical illusion but does the piston-to-wall clearance on that setup look a little loose? This might have been built for a race only situation.

 

The top of the piston is always smaller than the skirt.
The top is what expands the most.

When you meashure the P2CW clearence you meashure the skirts VS mid or bottom of the sylinder, that way you get the tightest meashurment.


Do yourself a favour, buy aftermarked springs retainers and valves, ferrea or supertech.
If you drop a valve from fatigue or the valves slightly hit the piston becouse of springwear(Valvefloat) and bends you get yourself in to real trubble.


One dropped valve = total rebuild.

A valvetrainset from supertech costs 525USD, A destroyed head pistons, sleeves, turbo and head are far more expensive.

BTW nice deal for 1000USD, A proper tune and the right turbo, why settle for only 400hp?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by atec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW nice deal for 1000USD, A proper tune and the right turbo, why settle for only 400hp? </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I was thinking when he said he was thinking about using a T3 turbo. Few push 400hp on stock bottom heads.

 

i change my goal........trying to get at least 375whp only...........if i ran a t3 50 trim will i get that much ......and if i did ...anyone know howmany psi.........iam trying to be as reliable as i can....with a stock head.........i also have another head on the side so...ill build that one and shoot for 500 when i finish rebuilding the head...

 

375 is about what a t3 is rated to but that doesn't mean that's how much whp your going make. You'll be pushing that turbo to the max to reach your minimum hp goals.

 

guess ill have to get that t3/t4 60 trim then..........

 

is this avong yang ...dont u have a greaddy turbokit too....

 

GE GODZILLA sleeved block.

Screw all the bullshit, That block is ready for 6-700 no PROBLEM.... Id put a SC6176s on it (only like 700 bux WITH the S cover NEW), or a cpomparable snail... (GT 30r wouldnt be a bad choice if 530-540ish is your goal...) and max it. 620 WHP on race gas at around 400 Tq. But the above are right: you dont HAVE to have the DBB cartrige at all to make power. Id think about at least some springs and retainers though if it were mine.