Kid-jdm-teggy

I just rebuilt the bottom end of an ls with nippon low comp piston and eagle rods with acl bearings and I was wondering should i break in the motor N/A first or do it with the turbo kit on. If the turbo should be on, do i go into boost or stay in a vacuum? I have a basemap from my tuner already and just wondering which method is best.

Boost4Breakfast

You will get a few different answers and opinions on this. If you are just running on a basemap, then I would run the engine N/A. Use the cheapest conventional oil at walmart or autozone like supertech. Let engine idle and fully warm up. Change oil (with more supertech). Drive around at varying loads, keep engine under ~5k. Then get on a long road, get into 5th at a realative slow speed. Floor it and take it up to just under 5k (as long as afr's, temp, etc are good.). Do that a couple times. Take it home and change oil/ filter (with more supertech). Then drive 250-300 miles (you can take it up to redline, etc.), then Change oil again with a good synthetic (I prefer Rotella T5). Put turbo on, take to get tuned. Have fun

Kid-jdm-teggy

Ok thanks for the info

m4xwellmurd3r

Ive been following this method

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Normally the method is used on a dyno in 4th with 15min cooldown sessions after 3 consecutive pulls. On the street using 2nd or 3rd works best. You dont need cooldown sessions of course.

Its a method thats been proven to make more power because it seats the rings against the cylinders quicker.

I do the first oil change after I do all the break in pulls (I dont change after warmup) then a change at 500 miles, then I switch to synthetic after 1000 miles

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I've always used the dyno beat on it method with various cars, various power outputs, etc and never had one issue.

The cylinders, pistons, and rings are round. Unless you fucked something up they will seal regardless.

Do the initial warm-up on stage on a non synthetic single weight, non detergent oil... Although ifyou can afford it use a dedicated break in oil. They work wonders but aren't cheap. Let it get up to operating temp (based off of OIL TEMP NOT COOLANT TEMP. Oil temp is the proper indication of engine temp ) check for leaks and proper operation. Go on ahead and tweak idle settings if needed.

Change the oil again and put the same type oil in it. Load on trailer and drive to dyno.

Let it get up to temp, do a few progressive pulls, then tune

Profit

m4xwellmurd3r

And if ypu dont have an oil temp sensor, let it idle for at least 15-30min. Thats about how long my car idles before I see any significant temp increases. Afterwards itll hit operating within a few min ot driving

D-Rob

I break in every single engine I build/install on the dyno with sweeping loaded pulls from 2,500rpm to 4,500rpm, then progressively increase to 6,500rpm. I then change the oil, and go straight to giving her all she's got, captain.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

^exactly. Refer to my round parts comment lol.

Also something I've observed is that properly built motors that are broken in on the dyno never ever seem to develop high leakdown issues. I've heard of motors done this way have leakdown figures of less than 5% (typically 2%-3%) tens of thousands of miles later.

It's all in the clearances, cleanliness, proper assembly, break in, and tuning of said motor to keep it happy and healthy

Runnerdown

I have broken in most engines very similar to what d-rob does and it works great. I do not subscribe to the cheap oil, no synthetic oil for XXX miles thing either. I have run synthetic right out of the gate. If the engine is built well it should not show any signs of trouble. Why should it ever see poor quality oil, especially on first startup...it's not logical thinking. Also, consider how many oe performance engines come with factory fill Mobil 1. Old myths die hard.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Well those oe motors have usually already been run in and test driven by the manufacturer.

To a point synthetic is so slippery that some say it can prevent proper ring seal and things of that nature that require some minor amount of friction to wear in

98vtec

but arent fresh motors weaker before they are broken in?

*sarcasm*

Runnerdown

"Too slippery" is exactly the quote that should not be perpetuated. There is no vehicle or lubricant manufacturer I have seen that recommends this. Synthetic is factory fill on countless engines. They don't dump petroleum based oil out and change to synthetic, it's a waste of money.

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Worked great on the engine in my car. Futhermore, that engine has seen hundred of pulls. No issues. Makes more power all the time.


Paul has built more engines than most people have seen. Great advice as always.

m4xwellmurd3r

Yeah, but car manufactures are still pushing the rediculous "take it easy" break in method for new cars, so I really think its a matter of being cheaper and faster to just fill it on synthetic rather than run it on conventional and switch to synthetic. Only people like us will care about the extra few percent of ring seal from breaking it in hard on cheap oil before going to synthetic after the rings are fully seated.

met

I had the pleasure of meeting a ford engine engineer 10 or so years ago. The one thing that stuck was about engine break in, his response was from day 1 all their prototype engines get synthetic oils. Then they would run them on the engine dynos, without much of a break in. I honestly believe if the engine was built correctly you would have have to do something major to mess them up, like the tune being off.

Runnerdown

You have to remember the entire car is new, there are differentials, transmission, clutch etc. It's in their best interest to advise this strictly for precaution. They don't leave a few percent on the table just because. They certainly want to avoid warranty claims of high oil consumption, smoke etc. Walk into any race car engine builders room and tell the guys to run garbage oil in the engine for first fire and you will laughed out.

As engine, machining and tribology technology moves forward it's important to embrace this and stay informed. Continuing to rinse and repeat the same obsolete ideas from decades ago is pretty weak.

PyroProblem

I've always believed and used the motoman method and that the rings have a small time frame to seat after reaching operating temp. What happens in these first 5~10 minutes dictates whether the rings seal good and REALLY GOOD.
Like those certain engines that just seem healthier And run stronger than others aka "factory freaks" . But they're completely stock from the factory.
Someone once said , "Its like banging a virgin. If you do it softly, that's how she's gonna like it. If you romp it good, she'll scream everytime your getting on it"

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

yea the whole too slippery thing always made do retarded owl face (thats what she said lulz)

personally I still think there's a small advantage to be had using petroleum based oil on break in. what you also have to remember is the new OEM motors have a more advanced hone/crosshatch on the cylinder walls and different ring materials. Most of us here are still playing with 20+ year old motors... sometimes old tech is the only tech for a few things

98vtec

break-in oil. its what i have always used.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

We use it too, definitely does the job right

ek9_beast

Looks like a lot of experienced builders in on this so ill take advantage. What is yals take on running break-in additives such as redline for that extra zddp that's missing in modern oils?

TravisBiggie

My motor had 20 minutes of idling, 4.2 miles of driving to the dyno, and put down 362whp 306 tq, stock b18b1, 19 psi, 60 trim turbo.
edit - I used basic mobil 1 oil, like 12$ for 5 gallons at walmart. **** synthetic.

Kid-jdm-teggy

Sorry guys, my question is should I break in my motor with the turbo kit on since I was building it for turbo, or should I break it in N/A for the first hundred mile or so then put the turbo kit on?

KevinEF7

Breaking it in n/a is definetely alot less hassle, as you can run stock injectors, stock ecu and a cheap header and the car will run well while you are going through youre break in cycle.

Theres nothing wrong with breaking in with the turbo setup connected, but its a little more risky if the car is going to run right, if youre basemap tune is going to get you around easily, no hickups etc.

I personally always break in with the turbo setup installed, but my setups are simple and not thrown together so hickups are few and far between

m4xwellmurd3r

Break it in and run it hard for 20-30 min like I and other stated earlier, oil change, then boost to the moon