Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a JRSC.
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Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a JRSC.
I'm looking for good advice on where to send a non-vtec head (the P8R) for port work. I know that's Frankacura 's thing, but just checking around anyway.
Also, I know that a supercharger and a turbo both produce PSI of boost.
I know that a roots/twin lysholm screw style supercharger are basically heat pumps if you don't cool them well enough. (Thank you LHT Performance - we love you.) XD
so considering my at-port intake air temps should be around 110-120 degrees, is 10:1 ok to run on 91/93 octane on 10.5psi? on a turbo i know that'd be a-ok, but a supercharger is a bit less efficient. Plus if i wanted to be a troll and twin charge it later.......... ;D
thanks guys in advance, i appreciate it.
And yes, i actually did search around a bit before just blindly posting this. If there is a post or something that answers these, then i apologize.
Also, I know that a supercharger and a turbo both produce PSI of boost.
I know that a roots/twin lysholm screw style supercharger are basically heat pumps if you don't cool them well enough. (Thank you LHT Performance - we love you.) XD
so considering my at-port intake air temps should be around 110-120 degrees, is 10:1 ok to run on 91/93 octane on 10.5psi? on a turbo i know that'd be a-ok, but a supercharger is a bit less efficient. Plus if i wanted to be a troll and twin charge it later.......... ;D
thanks guys in advance, i appreciate it.
And yes, i actually did search around a bit before just blindly posting this. If there is a post or something that answers these, then i apologize.
#3
Re: Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a J
PSI isn't a measure of a turbo/supercharger's output, its a measure of restriction. A better flowing head/cam/exhaust set-up will see less boost "psi" measured on a supercharged setup (although supercharger output will be the close to the same and power will usually be higher). Also more restriction/psi creates more heat. So if your were to do like Turbohatch96y7 is saying and spring for a vtec head (which flows much better), not only will your psi go down and engine efficiency go up, you will see lower intake temps.
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Re: Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a J
Fellas, i appreciate the guidance, thanks.
a couple things though:
1 - i know what determines psi. a v8 will push 6 pounds and make a lot more power off of 6 pounds than the same setup on a smaller engine. why? cause it's filling more space. i get that the better something breathes = less pressure/more power, etc etc.
a little info here:
the P8R head has 33mm intake valves and better ports than a normal p75 head. a ported P8R flows better than a stock b16 head. i'm not incompetent here. i'm not trying to start a stupid argument/discussion over vtec/non vtec.
my question is this:
because i haven't been around too many boosted setups myself, if the engine is GE sleeved, has forged internals, etc etc, and has a compression ratio of 10:1, AND breathes at least as well as a b16 head (so just consider the question based off of a vtec head i guess), what is about the maximum numbers i'd be able to make off of a 2.0L setup on 93 octane gas that's reasonable.
that and what are some suggestions on where to send the head to get ported/valve guides/chamber work, etc.
don't add other stuff into the answer, that's not what i'm asking. face value. please.
i'm not trying to be rude, i'm just looking for some answers.
thank you again.
a couple things though:
1 - i know what determines psi. a v8 will push 6 pounds and make a lot more power off of 6 pounds than the same setup on a smaller engine. why? cause it's filling more space. i get that the better something breathes = less pressure/more power, etc etc.
a little info here:
the P8R head has 33mm intake valves and better ports than a normal p75 head. a ported P8R flows better than a stock b16 head. i'm not incompetent here. i'm not trying to start a stupid argument/discussion over vtec/non vtec.
my question is this:
because i haven't been around too many boosted setups myself, if the engine is GE sleeved, has forged internals, etc etc, and has a compression ratio of 10:1, AND breathes at least as well as a b16 head (so just consider the question based off of a vtec head i guess), what is about the maximum numbers i'd be able to make off of a 2.0L setup on 93 octane gas that's reasonable.
that and what are some suggestions on where to send the head to get ported/valve guides/chamber work, etc.
don't add other stuff into the answer, that's not what i'm asking. face value. please.
i'm not trying to be rude, i'm just looking for some answers.
thank you again.
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Re: Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a J
If you don't believe me, then here.
https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...esult-2709206/
https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...-test-1396180/
direct head flow comparisons of ported P8R vs b16 (first link), and stock vs stock (second link).
https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...esult-2709206/
https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...-test-1396180/
direct head flow comparisons of ported P8R vs b16 (first link), and stock vs stock (second link).
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Re: Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a J
I've always looked to companies like endyn for their port work although I don't know how much they've done with the non vtec head. You can't beat their attention to detail IMO
4piston also does great work but as far as I know they don't do non vtec motors.
There are other companies like Headgames, Mission Critical, and so on that do Honda heads but again I'm not sure on the non vtec thing. User DDTECH has a friend that does good port work and from what I recall does some non vtec stuff.
As far as a head you've got the best possible option for a non vtecmotor but I think you knew that already lol so even unported it's better than nothing. Keep in mind that the power level and application determine what kind of port work has to be done. You don't want a 1,000hp dragport on a 400hp road course car. Also remember when deciding who should port the head that the majority of modified Hondas and subsequently the companies that support them are drag racing oriented.
4piston also does great work but as far as I know they don't do non vtec motors.
There are other companies like Headgames, Mission Critical, and so on that do Honda heads but again I'm not sure on the non vtec thing. User DDTECH has a friend that does good port work and from what I recall does some non vtec stuff.
As far as a head you've got the best possible option for a non vtecmotor but I think you knew that already lol so even unported it's better than nothing. Keep in mind that the power level and application determine what kind of port work has to be done. You don't want a 1,000hp dragport on a 400hp road course car. Also remember when deciding who should port the head that the majority of modified Hondas and subsequently the companies that support them are drag racing oriented.
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Re: Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a J
Thank you for the info. I already know of energy dynamics (Endyn). I've talked to Larry Widmer myself cause he's generally the one that answers the phone. Smart guy. And I agree that getting port work done on a street oriented car is very different than a super high powered dragster lol.
I know with a b16 head you can get 280-290whp if done right with the JRSC. That's on the ideal setup for 10.5 PSI. Any more and it overrevs and gets too hot/hurts itself on the inside of the charger.
At the most is probably want to motor capable of having a flat power/torque curve for most of as much of the rpm range as possible. At most I think I'd do 500ish whp. But that would only happen is I twin charge it ;D (MUCH later on.)
And I guess a more applicable question is this:
Considering that I'm going to continue to build this motor later by adding more boost. What's a rough maximum I could get for power numbers while still running on 93 octane. I want it to not have to have "race gas".
I've seen like 400+ on 93, but I'm pretty sure those were like 9.(something):1 for compression.
I know with a b16 head you can get 280-290whp if done right with the JRSC. That's on the ideal setup for 10.5 PSI. Any more and it overrevs and gets too hot/hurts itself on the inside of the charger.
At the most is probably want to motor capable of having a flat power/torque curve for most of as much of the rpm range as possible. At most I think I'd do 500ish whp. But that would only happen is I twin charge it ;D (MUCH later on.)
And I guess a more applicable question is this:
Considering that I'm going to continue to build this motor later by adding more boost. What's a rough maximum I could get for power numbers while still running on 93 octane. I want it to not have to have "race gas".
I've seen like 400+ on 93, but I'm pretty sure those were like 9.(something):1 for compression.
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Re: Opinions on good shops for head work, and compresion ratios for boosting with a J
And I started coming up with this build about a year ago.
I wanted to do the P8R head with a supercharger in an AWD civic EK coupe build.
It's jumped around in my head a bunch over time. I ended up close to the same place.
2.0L P8R head engine, JRSC, AWD CRV.
Possibly twin charging it later.
And honestly I'd want to put it underneath an EK hatch, but that's a hell of a lot more money to transfer the whole setup.
Plus the CRV has room for five, is honestly a lot safer than the hatch, has better visibility (the windows are giant and square and the furthest back point on the car is the tire on the tail door), so I like it.
I wanted to do the P8R head with a supercharger in an AWD civic EK coupe build.
It's jumped around in my head a bunch over time. I ended up close to the same place.
2.0L P8R head engine, JRSC, AWD CRV.
Possibly twin charging it later.
And honestly I'd want to put it underneath an EK hatch, but that's a hell of a lot more money to transfer the whole setup.
Plus the CRV has room for five, is honestly a lot safer than the hatch, has better visibility (the windows are giant and square and the furthest back point on the car is the tire on the tail door), so I like it.
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